Call it benefiting from the experience of my previous 'whoops' moments. It's one of the main reasons I don't wind on until I'm ready to take a shot. Unlike your OM-2ɴ, none of my OMs have a true 'off' mode and all the lot of them will happily trip their shutters if the shutter button gets knocked. The shutter button also turns on the meter circuits in the OM-2SP, OM-3, OM-4 and OM-40/PC, and is the main reason those cameras have a reputation for being battery-munchers if users don't remember to turn the shutter speed dial to 'B' while in storage.Thanks! I did not think of that, tripping the shutter in auto with the cap on! Thank you for the advice!
The OM2 has an electronic shutter, uses silver oxide cells, and mine got about three years per set of cells. I had a set of Varta mercury cells last from 1998 until 2015 in a LunaLux lightmeter.I believe the om2n is like the om one in using the mercuric oxide battery which are known to last a year without benefit of an on-off switch on the camera. it is only after cameras started to use silver oxide or lithium batteries that the on-off switches became necessary to prolong battery life more than a few months especially in cameras like the original OM4. In part, because the om one and om2 are mechanical cameras and use the battery only to power the meter whereas later cameras resorted to electronic shutters.
Yes, but only if the off-the-film metered shutter speed is 1/30 second or shorter.I have read that it can shoot perfectly metered shots even with the switch set to off. Is that true? Are there any limitations to that?
When I bought the camera and trying to test the auto, I thought that there was a problem with it as the shutter seemed unusually slow with what I would expect from the sunny-16 rule. This explains it perfectly, and lets me run the rest of the test film in it as nicely as I can, without worrying for the exposure! A real releaf after reading this. A nice reminder that reading the manual is not a bad thing.Yes, but only if the off-the-film metered shutter speed is 1/30 second or shorter.
This is for the reasons indicated above respecting avoiding battery drain when the shutter is released with the lens cap on..
By the way, if there is no film in the camera and you release the shutter on Auto, the exposure will be quite long. The off-the-film metering depends on there being film there to reflect the light.
And that off-the-film metering works with flash as well - provided the flash is appropriately dedicated.
You mean you upgradedAmazing! I have learned about the OMs more than I have bargained for. I came down to the OMs from the Canon cameras. My first one was the low end OM-10 that got me very disappointed in terms of flexibility, even with the manual adapter installed.
Let it be called an upgrade, it is more like GAS.You mean you upgradedOM-10 was really only intended as a beginners' SLR to be used in aperture priority. The plug-in manual adaptor was always a bit of a half-hashed afterthought and was really just a box-ticking exercise. That said, other than obviously my OM-1ɴ, I can probably count the number of times I've used my cameras in manual mode on one hand.
I need to double-check, but I believe the om2 was indeed mercuric oxide, and it was the OM-2SP which used the silver oxideThe OM2 has an electronic shutter, uses silver oxide cells, and mine got about three years per set of cells. I had a set of Varta mercury cells last from 1998 until 2015 in a LunaLux lightmeter.
The early OM4s -had one- ate cells due to an electronics defect.
No, only the OM-1(ɴ).I need to double-check, but I believe the om2 was indeed mercuric oxide, and it was the OM-2SP which used the silver oxide
If you're used to using cameras in full manual mode you would have found the OM-10 frustrating, because the viewfinder display only shows you what shutter speed the meter thinks is correct, not your chosen shutter speed. All the double-digit amateur models work the same way.What struck me with the OM10 was that I had no much idea what the camera was doing.
While this is true, in most cases it doesn't matter much. With the OM-G, you still get a "Manu" indicator in the viewfinder. You also get off-the-film automatic, with exposure compensation (including a viewfinder warning), as well as the best implementation of a self timer switch on the OM bodies - all in a body considerably lighter than an OM-2 or OM-1.If you're used to using cameras in full manual mode you would have found the OM-10 frustrating, because the viewfinder display only shows you what shutter speed the meter thinks is correct, not your chosen shutter speed. All the double-digit amateur models work the same way.
Prefer the lever position on the OM-40/PC if I'm being honest, but I get your drift....as well as the best implementation of a self timer switch on the OM bodies
93% view vs 97%. Both 0.92x with a 50mm lens. Slightly brighter image because like the OM-30 (OM-F) it uses the Lumi Micron focussing screen, strangely omitted from the OM-40 (OM-PC)How does the viewfinder of the OM-G compares to that of the OM-2n?
It makes very good sense to provide an "off" switch. Exhausted cells are far more likely to leak, and even if you leave the cap on the lens the resistance of the CDS cell is far from infinite.I always thought it was silly for the OM-1 to have an on-off switch (will that battery last 5 years or three?) But my OM-4 uses so much power I'm afraid to open my PG&E bill.
I always thought it was silly for the OM-1 to have an on-off switch (will that battery last 5 years or three?) But my OM-4 uses so much power I'm afraid to open my PG&E bill.
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