Olympus OM-10 or Canon AE-1?

[John Koehrer]

This is not entirely correct. The AE-1 (as well as AE-1P and A-1) will display the aperture value its meter says is correct exposure, whether in shutter-priority mode or manual. In manual, however, the needle does not respond to movement of the aperture ring.

Mea Culpa, should have said linked.

 

[Bigpaul]

For many years, my main outfit was Canon FD, and I was always more than happy with the optics (I especially liked the 50mm f1.4). I loved the F1 (original) and FTb bodies, but I never really liked the auto models. I had the AE1P for many years as a back-up body, and I found one thing to be really infuriating.......to use it in fully auto mode, one had to remember to set the aperture ring on the lens to "x", if I remember correctly? Anyway, whatever it was, I wasted quite a few shots by forgetting this, and missed even more. I suppose if one was to always use it in either auto or manual mode exclusively, this wouldn't be an issue, but certainly the design is not ideal for someone who often switches between manual and auto operation.

In fact I never really found an auto camera I liked until I stumbled across the Rolleiflex SL35E. These can be found for reasonable prices now, along with their excellent Zeiss-designed glass.

I can't comment on Olympus..........just wanted to recount my experience with the Canon FD auto models.

 

[Excalibur2]

For many years, my main outfit was Canon FD, and I was always more than happy with the optics (I especially liked the 50mm f1.4). I loved the F1 (original) and FTb bodies, but I never really liked the auto models. I had the AE1P for many years as a back-up body, and I found one thing to be really infuriating.......to use it in fully auto mode, one had to remember to set the aperture ring on the lens to "x", if I remember correctly? Anyway, whatever it was, I wasted quite a few shots by forgetting this, and missed even more. I suppose if one was to always use it in either auto or manual mode exclusively, this wouldn't be an issue, but certainly the design is not ideal for someone who often switches between manual and auto operation.

In fact I never really found an auto camera I liked until I stumbled across the Rolleiflex SL35E. These can be found for reasonable prices now, along with their excellent Zeiss-designed glass.

I can't comment on Olympus..........just wanted to recount my experience with the Canon FD auto models.

Well I have four 35mm all manual cameras and other than night shots can't think of a use for them anymore, if I was to choose between a OM10 or AE1...I'd move on and get a T70.
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/t70/index.htm

 

[Pumal]

For many years, my main outfit was Canon FD, and I was always more than happy with the optics (I especially liked the 50mm f1.4). I loved the F1 (original) and FTb bodies, but I never really liked the auto models. I had the AE1P for many years as a back-up body, and I found one thing to be really infuriating.......to use it in fully auto mode, one had to remember to set the aperture ring on the lens to "x", if I remember correctly? Anyway, whatever it was, I wasted quite a few shots by forgetting this, and missed even more. I suppose if one was to always use it in either auto or manual mode exclusively, this wouldn't be an issue, but certainly the design is not ideal for someone who often switches between manual and auto operation.

In fact I never really found an auto camera I liked until I stumbled across the Rolleiflex SL35E. These can be found for reasonable prices now, along with their excellent Zeiss-designed glass.

I can't comment on Olympus..........just wanted to recount my experience with the Canon FD auto models.

It's the 'A' option; and is not that difficult. You use it only in 'Program'

 

[darinwc]

That's all you need.
Presuming you set the shutter speed at a known value when you reach the area you're going to shoot.
I will usually set the camera at 1/200 & f8. Changing exposure is either + or -
a little bit.
If you know you're equipment it's not a problem
Keep in mind,the Canon has absolutely no indicator in Manual.
Of course any of this is meaningless if the OP wants to use the camera in Auto.

The Canon AE-1 does meter in manual mode.

An argument could be made that the AE-1 is easier to use in manual than the Olympus OM1 or 2.

First I think we can agree that if you are just going to use a camera's center-weighted meter reading, you may as well leave it in auto. Second, I think using a camera by 'feel' in manual mode is not very viable. Also, if you are using an external meter, there is no difference between cameras.

If you plan to 'evaluate' your scene using a zone or similar system, the AE-1 is quite enjoyable to use. The meter is fast and responsive, and the viewfinder can show a 9-stop range given the right shutter speed.
In practical use, you can point the camera at different points and visually see the exposure variance. Once you select your desired settings, you can (usually) double-check the highlight and shadow readings without changing camera settings.

The OM1 and (manual mode) OM2 require that you 'count clicks' to evaluate a scene. So you start by setting your camera to an average setting. Then point to a shadow and click... click... click... until the needle centers. Then move to the highlights, you will click... click... click... however number of times. Once you have dialed in your settings, you have no way of double-checking your exposure unless you change your settings.

The OM2 in auto mode, however, does a great job evaluating a scene like the AE1 does. Plus the exposure compensation dial allows you to adjust the final exposure.

 

[bulletz4life]

I would fully recommend the Canon AE-1 Program. It has plenty of good features and you can find one with a bunch of lenses for a very low price. I have one and it takes nice and sharp photos. The program mode is not really good for night shots, so if you know exposures very well, then that camera is perfect.

 

[John Koehrer]

Darwin,
The point is to use the AE1 manually, you hold the camera to your eye to take a reading & have to take it from your eye to set the camera!

 

[darinwc]

If you set the the aperture first, then you do not have to take your eye away from the camera.
You can adjust the shutter speed with one finger until the meter matches the aperture you pre-selected.

I dont know why you have this notion that it is a terrible drawback to take your eye away from the viewfinder.
It's not like you will be manually changing exposures in the middle of an action shot. And with either camera, you have to look away from the viewfinder to know the atcual value being used.

 

[John Koehrer]

If you set the the aperture first, then you do not have to take your eye away from the camera.
You can adjust the shutter speed with one finger until the meter matches the aperture you pre-selected.

I dont know why you have this notion that it is a terrible drawback to take your eye away from the viewfinder.

Your solution is a work around. It works, but isn't as simple as a match needle(led) method.
Most fuzzygrapfers I've known have always held the camera to their eye while they're shooting. To bracket, set exposure or just to contradict you.
FWIW....I'm done, you win, you've worn me down.

 

[darinwc]

John, I'm sorry, I wasnt trying to wear you down. God knows life does that to us all on its own.

I've learned much from this discussion. I hope others have learned as well.

 

[sangetsu]

I've owned and used both cameras quite a bit, and I liked both of them. Nowadays I have a Canon F1 and an Olympus OM4, they are the only 35mm SLR systems I like.

If I had to choose between the OM 10 and the AE1, I wouldn't take either, particularly when you can get an OM1 or OM2 for under $50. The OM 10 and AE1 were consumer cameras, meant to be used for holidays and special events. They were inexpensive to buy, because they were inexpensively built. The AE1 is better than the OM10, but I prefer OM lenses to FD lenses.

I have many Canon FD and Olympus 50mm lenses; 1.2, 1.4, and 1.8 (as well as macro) models. I find the OM 50/1.8 to be my favorite all-around lens, it gives me better results than any of the others. For fast lenses, the OM 50/1.2 is 1/3 smaller and lighter than it's FD counterpart, and I think it produces better OOF effects.

For low-cost lenses, the FD definitely holds the edge. The better OM lenses are becoming much sought after, and the prices reflect it. You can find a 20/2.8 FD lens for $200 if you try, but the OM equivalent will cost you at least twice as much.

However, this isn't enough to keep me shooting my Canon FD kit, which is on eBay right now. I prefer the OM for it's quality, small size, and ease-of-use.

 

[2F/2F]

For Canon, consider the FTb as well as the AE-1. Not as dirt cheap as an AE-1, but definitely under $100, and a much more solid camera with a better light meter (IMO). The AE-1 is a good camera (I've had, used, and loved many, because they turn up cheap and are great backup bodies), but it feels like a toy compared to the older ones. FD lenses are as good as anything (in general), and do not cost as much as some lenses because they have no forward compatibility.

OTOH, Olympus and Minolta lenses are even cheaper.

I'd also consider Nikons. A pre-AI amateur model is my suggestion...or even an F, since they are so cheap now. You have backward lens compatibility from AI lenses to the older bodies, plus you can, of course, use pre-AI glass. I love my Nikkormat and my Fs.

 

[Pumal]

+1

 

[unclemack]

I couldn't recommend anyone to buy either, no matter how cheap they may be, but for different reasons.
Repaired scores of OM10's back when they were current, must have at least 4 or 5 lying around uncollected. They were built down to a price to tempt people to "upgrade" from compacts and, frankly, they're garbage.
The AE1 was and is a vastly better camera, nearly as good as the A1. Lenses are good (as are the Zuiko) but the breechlock mount means no forward compatibility.
Nikon film cameras are cheap enough now so treat yourself to something decent that you can later upgrade if you wish - newer bodies fit older lenses and vice versa with the exception of DX format lenses.

 

[cooltouch]

+1 to both 2F/2F and unclemack, but for different reasons.

I love my old FTbn and FD mount glass can often be purchased for very cheap. But there are many great Nikon 35mm cameras out there that can also be picked up for great prices, and at least some of Nikon's lenses can be found for good prices. But if one is really bent on Olympus, then one of the OM-1s or OM-2s would be a much better choice.

 

[Pumal]

La Olympus OM-2 goes from 30 seconds to 1/1000. Ideal for night pics.

 

[John Hermanson]

I'd go for a OM-1N or 2N instead of a 10. You may be able to get them for little money but you should include the cost of an overhaul in your budget. John