Olympus OM-10 or Canon AE-1?

[randyB]

Each model has it pros and cons. I like the OM10 because of the OTF exposure reading during the automatic exposure, this makes for very consistant exposures under average lighting and is fairly accurate under difficult lighting. The build quality is not so great as it was meant for the consumer market. The AE1 has the advantage of having the manual speeds built in plus it has a more robust construction. For the average photographer the 1.8 lens of either brand will be more than adequate. The 1.4 lens is more "exotic" (for lack of a better word)and more costly even used. In reality, cost is almost a non factor now-a-days, for just a few dollars more you could move up to the advanced amatuer/pro quality cameras. I would look at the Olympus OM2n or the OM2sp or the Canon A-1 or even the New F-1. Also, Nikon, Minolta and Pentax made competing models with almost the same results.

 

[cooltouch]

So, Andrei, what's your budget? I recently sold a couple of AE-1s on eBay (just the bodies) and the most expensive auction was less than $20. Both were in decent shape and came with manuals to boot. Oh well. Toss in a 50/1.8, and you can probably still find one for quite a bit less than $40. Probably the same with the OM-10, even if it has the manual adapter. Oh, and I wouldn't even consider the OM-10 without it. As Matt recommended, an OM-G would be a better choice. And with Canon, an AE-1 Program would be the better choice.

But if you're looking for just a cheap camera to buy, and since you have already used a straight manual-exposure camera (the Pentax K-1000), why not go for a manual mechanical camera? (both the AE-1 and OM-10 are battery dependent) Of the manual mechanical cameras that can often be found for a reasonable sum, my personal favorite is the Canon FTb. It has all the features you'll ever need: match-needle metering, mirror lock up, self timer, and more. True, it takes the old 625 mercury batteries for the meter, but the 675 hearing aid batteries work just fine and are cheap. As for Canon optics, I've shot with them for almost 30 years, and have always been well pleased with them.

I recently bought a Pentax KX, which is also a great mechanical camera -- more or less Pentax's equivalent to the Canon FTb -- and paid less than $40 for it. Pentax optics are outstanding. So that's another way to go. I'd recommend a Nikon or two, but for really cheap prices about all you'll find will be EMs, maybe a thrashed Nikkormat or two, and perhaps the occasional FG. The latter, which is also battery dependent, is actually a very decent little camera.

 

[darinwc]

I see some form of which camera to buy posted over and over. Why not look for a pro quality camera instead of a amateur/consumer camera.

Just to counterpoint that.
"PRO" cameras often were built for professionals with features that professionals need. What were these features? Most of them mean squat for the new/casual photographer. I'd reccomend spending good money on 2 or 3 excellent lenses and an incident light meter. The camera used becomes more of a personal choice/style.

 

[darinwc]

So even if I use it in shutter priority I can't take pictures with the Canon and change settings without taking the eyes of the viewfinder? And with the OM-2 that is possible, right?

no thats wrong.. In shutter priority mode of the Ae1, you set the shutter speed, and the camera will automatically select the aperture. The shutter speed can easily be moved with one finger. There is a needle in the viewfinder that points to the aperture she camera will use. So you can be looking through the viewfinder and easily change the shutter speed and see the needle go up or down as you rotate the speed dial. The actual speed selected is not in the viewfinder, however. In manual mode, the AE1 works well if you first set one (aperture or speed), then look through the viewfinder and set the other.

The OM2 is just the opposite: aperture priority. You set the aperture and then the camera decides the shutter speed to use. The speed selected is indicated in the viewfinder. The aperture is not shown at all in the viewfinder. In manual mode, all that is shown is a +/- indicator. You have to adjust the settings until the needle is in the middle.

The OM2 does allow you to easily use exposure compensation in aperture priority or manual with the big dial on top. The Ae1 can only do that in manual mode, but it is easy unless the meter is above or below the range.


All in all, both cameras are excellent and very usable.
The OM2 is a more enjoyable camera to use and more likely to be working well atfer all these years.

 

[John Koehrer]

But there is NO direct link on the Canon IF the camera is in manual. It will recommend a value and you will have to take the camera away from your eye to set it.
2)The pictures you see on line with data provided by the photographer may say what camera/lens was used.
What I am suggesting is that if you're given a selection of pictures with no information on them you will not be able to identify what camera/lens was used. In other words, a picture taken with any camera you are looking at will give you good results if it's working properly. And you will not be able to tell which camera took which picture.

 

[Andrei Machado]

You guys are really helping, I'm starting to figure out what I really want.

And that is the aperture priority, BUT, where I live (Brazil) it's hard to find Zuiko lenses (1.4, for an example, looked for it and nothing, only 1.8). And it's even hard to find the OM-2 (only OM-10 available here). Canon equipaments are so much easier to find.

So, if, for an example, I want to do only "bokeh" style photos (with those beautiful DOF), if set the an default apperture on AE-1 for all the day (1.8, in this case) I can shoot setting the shutter speed by the meter needle, right?

I guess I can live with that. Even thought that is what any full-manual camera with metter-needle does.

 

[darinwc]

But there is NO direct link on the Canon IF the camera is in manual. It will recommend a value and you will have to take the camera away from your eye to set it.

Thats no different than the OM 1, 2, 10, or G.

 

[darinwc]

So, if, for an example, I want to do only "bokeh" style photos (with those beautiful DOF), if set the an default apperture on AE-1 for all the day (1.8, in this case) I can shoot setting the shutter speed by the meter needle, right?

I guess I can live with that. Even thought that is what any full-manual camera with meter-needle does.

You can use shutter-priority just fine for your needs. Leave the lens in auto. Look in the viewfinder and hold the shutter button halfway. The needle will tell you what aperture the camera wants to use. Adjust the shutter speed until the needle points ot the aperture you want.

If you are buying a canon AE1, make sure the seller has tested it and states the shutter works properly and does not make a squeal/squeak sound. Dont take a chance on a "as is" or "dont know nuttin bout cameras" sale.
A common problem with the lenses is oil on the blades. make sure to check them carefully for proper aperture function as soon as you get them.
Most of the canon prime lenses are great. All are good. They are cheap compared to most other systems, so there is no need to settle for off-brand lenses.

 

[darinwc]

Also, the A1 and T70 are excellent cameras as well if you can find one cheap.

 

[Jeff Kubach]

Also the T90.

Jeff

 

[Tony-S]

So, if, for an example, I want to do only "bokeh" style photos (with those beautiful DOF), if set the an default apperture on AE-1 for all the day (1.8, in this case) I can shoot setting the shutter speed by the meter needle, right?

For Canon, I think you want an A-1 or AV-1. Also, there's more to bokeh than maximum aperture. The FD 50mm f/1.8 has a 5-blade aperture, while the FD 50mm f/1.4 has an 8-blade aperture. That gives more of a "circle" to the aperture, which improves the quality of those out-of-focus areas. You can get great bokeh out of a 5-blade aperture, but the blades have to be curved, not straight. The FD 50mm lenses have straight ends; mostly irrelevant for the 1.4, but not for the 1.8.

 

[Alan Johnson]

http://zuserver2.star.ucl.ac.uk/~rwesson/esif/om-sif/bodygroup.htm
I have OM-10 with manual adapter,and OMG.The downside of the aperture priority of that era is that there is no exposure lock on half pressing the shutter button.I also have OM-1n,that had to be converted from mercury to silver batteries.
I would not swap for Canon, the OM system is smaller and lighter but as some posters have mentioned the OM-2 series has advantages.

 

[Andrei Machado]

Are there any others brands of lenses that fits on OM-10?

 

[JimCouch]

Thats no different than the OM 1, 2, 10, or G.

With the OM 1 or 2 you can see the meter in the viewfinder even on manual control and do not need to take the camera away from your eye to set the exposure.

 

[Alan Johnson]

Are there any others brands of lenses that fits on OM-10?

Yes,lots.
They are advertised as OM fit lens or as Olympus OM fit lens (avoid the newer Olympus 4/3 digi lenses)
Some brands I have:
Sigma,Vivitar, Tamron (with Tamron OM adapter),Cosina,Carl Zeiss Jena.

 

[Andrei Machado]

Is it true that in OM-10 I can't set the shutter speed manually?

 

[Alan Johnson]

You have to buy the "manual adapter" ,a little gadet that plugs in to the front of the camera.Then full manual setting is possible,in addition to the aperture priority that comes with the OM-10 body.

 

[Prest_400]

You guys are really helping, I'm starting to figure out what I really want.

And that is the aperture priority, BUT, where I live (Brazil) it's hard to find Zuiko lenses (1.4, for an example, looked for it and nothing, only 1.8). And it's even hard to find the OM-2 (only OM-10 available here). Canon equipaments are so much easier to find.

So, if, for an example, I want to do only "bokeh" style photos (with those beautiful DOF), if set the an default apperture on AE-1 for all the day (1.8, in this case) I can shoot setting the shutter speed by the meter needle, right?

I guess I can live with that. Even thought that is what any full-manual camera with metter-needle does.

I noticed that the Zuiko 50mm f1.4 is getting rarer to see, and pricey too . A year and a half ago, when I started building the kit and followed ebay a lot, they were more plentiful and at a lower price. [ironically, I'm browsing ebay right now, and there are more listings than the last weeks]

I believe that most standard 50mm f1.8s have 6 blades in diaphragm, it won't matter at all wide open as said, but I believe it influences a bit on smaller apertures.
It's said that the zuiko 50mm f1.4 has better bokeh. The 1.8 (at least mine) is quite variable, depending on conditions. I've gotten wonderful and "bad" bokeh from my zuikos (28mm f3.5, 50mm f1.8 MIJ and 135mm f3.5).

I'd say, don't bother much with 3rd party lenses. Some are said to be nice (Tamron adaptall, vivitar series 1, CZ jena) but even the cheapest zuikos are great, some say that comparable to the higher range in build quality, only difference is the max. aperture.

 

[darinwc]

With the OM 1 or 2 you can see the meter in the viewfinder even on manual control and do not need to take the camera away from your eye to set the exposure.

True, but not really that useful the way that olympus does it. On the OM1 and OM2 in manual mode, all you get is a +/- indicator. You can move the shutter speed and aperture by feel until the needle is in the middle. However you have no idea of what aperture or speed you have selected unless you take your eyes away from the viewfinder.

 

[elekm]

Regarding the lenses, there really is no such thing as noise in film. That's a digital phenomenon. There is film grain, but it should be identical and is more a reflection of the film type and the accuracy of the exposure system than the lens. An underexposed photo will need to be overexposed during printing, which can increase the amount of apparent grain.

I wouldn't base your purchasing decision solely on specs. I probably would suggest trying different body styles, even if if means buying several cameras, then keeping the one that you like best and selling the others.

For example, with the OM-10, you'll need to use the manual speed adapter, which plugs into the front of the camera. It's much less easy to use than having the shutter speed selector easily accessible on the top deck.

And you might not like the AE-1's electronic display. Or you might like it a lot.

 

[elekm]

What I would list as good first film cameras. You'll almost always have to replace the foam seals.

- Nikon FE/FM. Roughly the same size as the Canon AE-1. FE was autoexposure. Later version of FM added this feature, making the FE redundant.

- Pentax KX. All manual body. Slightly larger body. Very durable. (MX is a smaller electronic version of the KX with LEDs rather than a shutter speed scale.) I like the MX a lot.

- Contax 139. Roughly the same size as the Nikon FE/FM. Takes the excellent Carl Zeiss lenses. If the batteries die, you have a doorstop. Almost always have to replace the body covering. The Yashica version of this camera is the FX-D, which also usually needs to have a new body covering. It can use the Contax lenses.

- Olympus OM-1/OM-2. Some like them, some don't. They have the shutter speed dial on the lens mount.

- Nikkormat FT3. Large, sturdy camera that accepts Nikon lenses. Shutter speed selector is at the base of the lens mount.

- Rolleiflex SL 35 E. Great Carl Zeiss and Schneider (and Rolleinar) lenses, terribly unreliable bodies. I've been shooting lately with this. Love the lenses.

- Minolta XD11. First camera to offer both shutter- and aperture-priority autoexposure, as well as manual control. On many cameras, the body covering has shrunk and will need to be replaced. Excellent camera with a nice selection of Minolta lenses available for ery reasonable prices. Roughly the same size as the AE-1, Nikon FE/FM and Contax 139.

There are many other cameras that might fit the bill. Here's my XD-11 with a new black covering. I think that I paid about $75 plus $17 for the new covering.

 

[JimCouch]

True, but not really that useful the way that olympus does it. On the OM1 and OM2 in manual mode, all you get is a +/- indicator. You can move the shutter speed and aperture by feel until the needle is in the middle. However you have no idea of what aperture or speed you have selected unless you take your eyes away from the viewfinder.

The arrangement of the OM shutter ring actually gives you a very good idea of what speed you are at once you use it a bit. Because of the tabs on the shutter speed ring you can tell roughly where you are at. when i was regularly shooting OMs I could tell you precisely what shutter speed I was at by the position of the ring, without looking at it. As for aperture, that was admittedly more of a guess, but if you know what you are starting with you usually have a pretty good idea what aperture you are at by counting the clicks.

 

[John Koehrer]

True, but not really that useful the way that olympus does it. On the OM1 and OM2 in manual mode, all you get is a +/- indicator. You can move the shutter speed and aperture by feel until the needle is in the middle. However you have no idea of what aperture or speed you have selected unless you take your eyes away from the viewfinder.

That's all you need.
Presuming you set the shutter speed at a known value when you reach the area you're going to shoot.
I will usually set the camera at 1/200 & f8. Changing exposure is either + or -
a little bit.
If you know you're equipment it's not a problem
Keep in mind,the Canon has absolutely no indicator in Manual.
Of course any of this is meaningless if the OP wants to use the camera in Auto.

 

[Excalibur2]

The arrangement of the OM shutter ring actually gives you a very good idea of what speed you are at once you use it a bit. Because of the tabs on the shutter speed ring you can tell roughly where you are at. when i was regularly shooting OMs I could tell you precisely what shutter speed I was at by the position of the ring, without looking at it. As for aperture, that was admittedly more of a guess, but if you know what you are starting with you usually have a pretty good idea what aperture you are at by counting the clicks.

erm On my Minolta X-700 you can see aperture and shutter speed in the viewfinder.

 

[cooltouch]

Keep in mind,the Canon has absolutely no indicator in Manual.

This is not entirely correct. The AE-1 (as well as AE-1P and A-1) will display the aperture value its meter says is correct exposure, whether in shutter-priority mode or manual. In manual, however, the needle does not respond to movement of the aperture ring. This is not all that uncommon with auto exposure cameras from that era. The Minolta X-700, for example, does just the opposite. In manual mode, it will show the shutter speed it recommends but not the one actually selected.

I recommend to the OP that if he plans to use his camera in manual mode, that he seriously consider buying a camera where the meter display is coupled to both shutter speed and aperture adjustments. Among Canon FD cameras, the best candidates are the F-1 (both models, but I prefer the early all-mechanical one), the FT-b, and the AT-1. Among Nikons, any of the F-series Nikons (F, F2, F3, F4, etc.), the Nikkormats, the FE-series and the FM-series are all useful in this respect. Most economical are the Nikkormats, and the FM. Minolta would be the SRT-series, the XK, and the X-570 (I don't know about the XD-11). Olympus models are the OM-1 and OM-3 (I don't know if the OM-2's meter is fully coupled in manual). Pentax, the Spotmatics for M42, the K1000, KM, KX, and K2 are good candidates for K-mount lenses.

If one desires some level of automation along with a fully-coupled meter for manual, the field is thinned considerably. The only Canon FD camera I'm aware of that offers full meter coupling in manual plus at least one auto exposure mode is the New F-1 with AE Finder FN (for aperture priority) or with the motor or winder FN (for shutter priority). Among Nikon manual-focus is the FE, FE2, F3, and Nikkormat EL (all aperture priority). Minolta is the XK and X-570 (both aperture priority, dunno about the XD-11). With Pentax it's the K2 and LX (aperture priority auto), although there might be others. As for Olympus, the OM-4 provides these capabilities. Perhaps one of the OM-2 series does also? Not sure.

If I had to choose a camera that offered fully coupled manual and at least one auto exposure mode, I'd probably choose the Canon New F-1 with AE Findeer FN. These cameras are extremely robust system cameras with many options and accessories, and nowadays can be found for quite reasonable prices. As has been mentioned previously, not only are Canon FD lenses excellent optics, but it seems that of all the major makers' lenses, they are some of the most economical as well.