My OM-1 photos are out of focus. A ruler shows 3cm difference at 1m when compared with another OM-1. The focus also extends beyond infinity when looking at objects 100m+ away. I have checked the distance to the film rails and it is within tolerance 46.00 +/- 0.2.
Simple lens formula puts the focus screen error at about 1.85 mm which is huge.
Regarding the "I pin", you are probably referring to the "L pin" which is the mirror pivot. I don't think that is going to be your issue as that part rarely needs adjustment and it requires the mirror box to be removed and a special fixture to adjust. First thing to do with focus issues is check focus at the film plane with a ground glass at an infinity object. Then check at the viewfinder. If there is an error and the focus screen is intact and seated properly, I would suspect the mirror angle. To check the angle, a 45 degree fixture is used along with an autocollimator. It does not take much of an error to effect focus at the fresnel.My OM-1 photos are out of focus. A ruler shows 3cm difference at 1m when compared with another OM-1. The focus also extends beyond infinity when looking at objects 100m+ away. I have checked the distance to the film rails and it is within tolerance 46.00 +/- 0.2. The mirror is at 45 degrees. Focus screen is correctly located. Multiple lens do not correct the problem. Through my view finder I can achieve focus, although it is incorrect for the film plane. The visible shims in the prism area sit above the focus screen and so cannot affect the focus screen positioning. My eyesight is good. No problem with testing similar and same focus screen using 2nd OM-1. Is the answer to adjust the location of the focus screen? Somehow? I note in the camera repair guide something about 5.53+/-0.05 between the 'l-pin' and measuring stage, but not even sure how this is relevant and indeed what is an 'l-pin'. Any advice appreciated. Thank you!
First thing to do with focus issues is check focus at the film plate with a ground glass at an infinity object. Then check at the viewfinder.
Thank you. I will try this. Just a question re: a) l-pin adjustment fixture and b) auto-collimeter + c) 45 degree fixture… do you have any recommendations at the lower end of the price scale suitable for the OM-1?Regarding the "I pin", you are probably referring to the "L pin" which is the mirror pivot. I don't think that is going to be your issue as that part rarely needs adjustment and it requires the mirror box to be removed and a special fixture to adjust. First thing to do with focus issues is check focus at the film plane with a ground glass at an infinity object. Then check at the viewfinder. If there is an error and the focus screen is intact and seated properly, I would suspect the mirror angle. To check the angle, a 45 degree fixture is used along with an autocollimator. It does not take much of an error to effect focus at the fresnel.
That's where you need to start. Camera on a tripod, shutter on B, GG taped across the film rails (it's easy to mistake the raised part that's not the film rails), lens focused to infinity on something that's a fair distance away, and a loupe. I've used a magnifying glass or a camera lens in place of a loupe, worked fine.
That seems too large. Assuming the OP is using a 50mm lens to quote a focus difference of 3 cm at 1 meter:
the extension to focus at 1000mm (950mm lens to subject) is approx 52.78mm,
the extension to focus at 1030mm (980mm lens to subject is approx 52.68mm.
So the offset would be just 0.1mm. That is a fairly small number and difficult to measure critical quantities such as the distance between flange and the film rails to that accuracy. I would try to focus with a ground glass or focusing screen on the film rails of both cameras to confirm the size of the offset.
Sorry, one additional question... does the bottom surface of the ground glass (I am using a number 13 focus screen) sit on the surface of the film rails or does the focus screen need to sit into the shutter curtain area such that the upper surface of the focus screen is parallel to the surface of the rails? I hope this makes sense.... Thank you.Regarding the "I pin", you are probably referring to the "L pin" which is the mirror pivot. I don't think that is going to be your issue as that part rarely needs adjustment and it requires the mirror box to be removed and a special fixture to adjust. First thing to do with focus issues is check focus at the film plane with a ground glass at an infinity object. Then check at the viewfinder. If there is an error and the focus screen is intact and seated properly, I would suspect the mirror angle. To check the angle, a 45 degree fixture is used along with an autocollimator. It does not take much of an error to effect focus at the fresnel.
Hi, An update for anyone who is interested.My OM-1 photos are out of focus. A ruler shows 3cm difference at 1m when compared with another OM-1. The focus also extends beyond infinity when looking at objects 100m+ away. I have checked the distance to the film rails and it is within tolerance 46.00 +/- 0.2. The mirror is at 45 degrees. Focus screen is correctly located. Multiple lens do not correct the problem. Through my view finder I can achieve focus, although it is incorrect for the film plane. The visible shims in the prism area sit above the focus screen and so cannot affect the focus screen positioning. My eyesight is good. No problem with testing similar and same focus screen using 2nd OM-1. Is the answer to adjust the location of the focus screen? Somehow? I note in the camera repair guide something about 5.53+/-0.05 between the 'l-pin' and measuring stage, but not even sure how this is relevant and indeed what is an 'l-pin'. Any advice appreciated. Thank you!
My OM-1 photos are out of focus. A ruler shows 3cm difference at 1m when compared with another OM-1. The focus also extends beyond infinity when looking at objects 100m+ away. I have checked the distance to the film rails and it is within tolerance 46.00 +/- 0.2. The mirror is at 45 degrees. Focus screen is correctly located.
Mirror angle is not likely what is causing your issue unless the camera has been subjected to some type of trauma. In fact, mirror angle on the OM series is not simple to correct- the mirror box needs to be removed to reach the adjustment lock screw and it is sealed in place, a clue that Olympus feels this is not a common adjustment. Also, the manual that is often linked to is for the early OM-1 and the mirror angle stop mechanism was changed soon after production. And, adjustment is made not by raising or lowering a spring, but by changing the position of the spring stop. The spring is used as a shock absorber. I have attached a photo of how I check mirror angle on cameras - it shows a forty five degree fixture resting on the film rails of a camera body and an autocollimator squirting an image to the mirror.Hi, thank you. I am checking the adjustment through the use of lasers. These are not autocollimators given the expense. But I may have to buy one. Mirror adjustment is achieved by adjusting the height of the mirror resting place by raising or lowering a spring. The difficulty is that this mechanical movement of the spring seems lacking ie, does not to allow for the arc sec angle accuracy that may be expected/wanted today. My experience with OM-1 is such that there is a knack to achieving a goal and I suspect this is no different.
Hi, thank you. Yes, I agree with your explanation. Mine was imperfect. It is the adjustment of the spring stop. Your approach seem good! Did you design or buy your 45 degree fixture and/or autocollimeter. My mirror is off angle… just deciding the best way to return it …
Hi, thank you. Yes, I agree with your explanation. Mine was imperfect. It is the adjustment of the spring stop. Your approach seem good! Did you design or buy your 45 degree fixture and/or autocollimeter. My mirror is off angle… just deciding the best way to return it …
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