Olympus 35 RC problem

[Agulliver]

I've just taken delivery of an Olympus 35 RC from an auction at that famous site....and I'm a bit confused. The shutter release button won't push down enough to do it's job. However I have managed to make it fire by pressing the button on the base (for beginning the rewind process) and then advancing the winder a second time.

Does this camera require film loaded to function normally? Or a working battery even in manual use? The battery compartment lid seems very stiff and I don't want to risk scratching it in case I need to return the camera.

 

[Wallendo]

To which setting is the aperture turned?
If it is set at an aperture number 2.8 - 16, then the camera should fire without a battery.
If it is set to OFF, it will not fire.
If it is set to A, you will need to insert a battery.
Although my experience is that one movement of the film advance is all that is required to arm the shutter, the manual suggests that sometimes more than one activation is required if it is not completely advanced with the first move.


Manual is here: http://www.cameramanuals.org/olympus_pdf/olympus_35_rc.pdf

 

[Agulliver]

I've tried it set to various aperture settings. I've noticed that the sprocket wheel isn't rotating when I wind the lever....that seems rather ominous....

 

[bernard_L]

Does this camera require film loaded to function normally?

No. Only examples I know are some Voigtlander Vito models.

Or a working battery even in manual use?

No. I never use mine on auto, so I can't tell if the shutter is blocked when the light is insufficient. But as long as you manually set a diaphragm, the shutter should fire.

 

[perkeleellinen]

Not sure how helpful this is.

I've had two 35RCs and both had the same problem - the aperture would not open to the correct size when pressing down the shutter button and also the shutter was able to fire in the off position. I sent both cameras to repair, both cam back fixed but the problem came back really soon. I read online that the shutter button is connected to the meter needle and if this sticks then the aperture will only open to the point where the needle sticks. Furthermore, if the needle is stuck right at the bottom the aperture won't open and the shutter won't fire.

 

[Agulliver]

It doesn't sound like the same problem as perkeleellinen has.

The needle will travel it's full way across the dial from f22 to the red. I have managed to get the shutter to reliable fire only if I hold down that button on the underside (intended to start the rewind procedure). Then the shutter will fire. As far as I can tell the aperture blades are working but the sprocket wheel still isn't turning - I suspect this is another sign of what's wrong.

I'm going to try a film in it anyway over the weekend with my botch of winding on with the bottom button depressed.

 

[bernard_L]

with my botch of winding on with the bottom button depressed

If you press and release the rewind button,and then actuate the film advance lever, your film will advance by approx 1/2 frame.
If you keep the rewind button pressed while you actuate the film advance lever, the film will not advance.

The only explanation I can think of is that the double exposure prevention mechanism is misbehaving or broken. Its normal function is to prevent shutter operation if the film has not advanced. Possibly the rewind button bypasses that interlock. But that won't result in a properly exposed film, as I stated above.

 

[Agulliver]

If I keep the rewind button pressed, the film does advance...at least with the back off. I assume the same is happening with the back on. I agree it's rather odd. With the back off the shutter is firing correctly if I follow that unusual procedure.

 

[Agulliver]

I've decided also to open the battery compartment....there was indeed a corroded old battery in there....having removed it and cleaned the contacts I've installed a modern 625 battery and the exposure system appears to be dead. I'm still going to run a test film through this but I think I'll at least be asking for a partial refund.

 

[Chan Tran]

It doesn't sound like the same problem as perkeleellinen has.

The needle will travel it's full way across the dial from f22 to the red. I have managed to get the shutter to reliable fire only if I hold down that button on the underside (intended to start the rewind procedure). Then the shutter will fire. As far as I can tell the aperture blades are working but the sprocket wheel still isn't turning - I suspect this is another sign of what's wrong.

I'm going to try a film in it anyway over the weekend with my botch of winding on with the bottom button depressed.

I don't think you should try a film. The Olympus 35RC can be tested without film.

 

[AgX]

I've tried it set to various aperture settings. I've noticed that the sprocket wheel isn't rotating when I wind the lever....that seems rather ominous....

Not surprise as you disengaged the sprocket wheel, by pushing the button on the base... unless such shows up otherwise too.

 

[John Koehrer]

The sprocket won't turn without film. Film is drawn across the film gate by the take up spool.
If the slip clutch in the TU spool doesn't have enough tension it can't pull film out of the cartridge.

 

[AgX]

I stand corrected. I should have considerd the possibility of this alternative way of film transport being employed.

 

[Agulliver]

The sprocket won't turn even if I attempt to turn it with my fingers as I wind the lever. It seems to be stuck.

Anyway the film I shot using my "alternative method of film transport" didn't work...every inch of it was blank apart from the rebate and header/tailer fog. So the camera is a dud. Thanks for the advice and help guys.

 

[Wallendo]

The sprocket won't turn even if I attempt to turn it with my fingers as I wind the lever. It seems to be stuck.

Anyway the film I shot using my "alternative method of film transport" didn't work...every inch of it was blank apart from the rebate and header/tailer fog. So the camera is a dud. Thanks for the advice and help guys.

That is a shame as it is a really fun camera when working.

 

[Agulliver]

Yeah i had enough to get a feel for it and would have definitely used it regularly had it worked even in manual mode. As it is the seller has agreed to take it back for a full refund. Nothing lost, just disappointed.

 

[Agulliver]

The seller has offered to refund me...which is great. I was going to post the camera back today but I've just received a message saying they will refund me *and* they don't want it back. They're a charity and presumably have figured out that a professional repair would cost more than it's worth.

So the question now is....does anyone know how I might be able to attempt a repair? I'm thinking that the sprocket wheel not turning is a big symptom of whatever is wrong. I am not much fussed about the auto exposure system though it would be a bonus.

Update.....as I can keep the camera I decided to take the bottom off and have a look. As far as I can tell the small copper coloured cog is connected to the sprocket wheel and will not turn. The reason that I can get the shutter to fire if I depress the rewind button is that it moves the larger silver cog out of the way of the copper one.

I am far from the world's best mechanical engineer so can anyone offer advice? I'm tempted to put a drop of oil on the copper cog but I do know that's not always the best thing to do.

 

[Quendil]

I have one it bits and another one that does not always work on auto always. I have swapped the lenses between them but haven't got much further yet. A couple of links I found useful

http://www3.telus.net/public/rpnchbck/Oly_RC.html

http://feuerbacher.net/photo/repair/OlympusRC/OlympusRC.html

 

[Quendil]

Looking at the one I have in bits which move freely I would think it is something at the top making it stick so I would take the top off the camera to see if something is sticking there.

Not sure whether these pics help

 

[Agulliver]

Everything on the top seems to be OK...the wind lever moves easily and the take-up spool rotates. The problem is when the silver gear on the bottom engages with the copper coloured one. That copper coloured gear and the sprocket wheel (which I believe is connected to it) will not turn.

I have tried a little disassembly and couldn't actually get that copper gear off as the screw is too tight with a very narrow gap for the screwdriver. I dried one drop of oil just in case it might help...but no luck.

Any more ideas?

 

[Quendil]

For the screws you need a JIS screwdriver set, I think I got mine on ebay or maybe amazon. This is the one I have https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vessel-Pre...+screwdriver+set&qid=1557479517&s=diy&sr=1-14

I'll have a look at the one I have in bits and get back to you

 

[Quendil]

Just looked at mine and I can turn the sprocket wheel with my finger with and without the rewind button being pressed. There doesn't seem to be much there , just the small copper cog connected to the sprocket wheel. Can you see anything jammed in that may stop the sprocket from turning see pic

 

[Agulliver]

Other than the fact that mine could do with a good air blow I can't see anything to jam the sprocket wheel. Photo attached. I certainly cannot turn the sprocket wheel. It's jammed stuck.

 

[Quendil]

I think you are going to have to take the copper gear off to see if you can get the sprocket wheel to move without that on. I had a look at mine and the screw undoes with a JIS 2.3mm screwdriver

 

[Agulliver]

With the copper gear removed I still cannot turn the wheel. What I see with the gear removed is this. I'm at a loss for how the mechanism could be so stubborn.