Old T-Max developer (August 2012 best before) works fine.

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Tom Kershaw

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I've been trying to clear out odds n' ends from my darkroom and remembered a bottle of T-Max developer I'd used some of ages ago and then left, well I tried it today on some unimportant film and it works fine. This was an opened bottle about 3/4 full.

PS) The developer still looked fine, none suspicious colour etc. - I'm not responsible if your use of old developer goes wrong etc...

Tom
 
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lantau

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I believe developers are more resilient than their reputation. There seems to be some panic about photo chemicals with people almost worrying about their Sodium Chloride going off. That being said yours is quite old. I have some glass ampules of Neofin Red and Blue, which must be ancient. I'll need to test that some time in the next few years.

I had a break from my positive darkroom that lasted from mid June to last Saturday. I left the developer (Adox MCC dev) in the slot processor, which is covered by a dust lid and also some protectan carefully applied. After the first two months I returned to replenish 100-200mL in the hope to make it keep (no printing done). At that point I also dumped the stop bath and probably also slightly replenished the neutral fix in its slot.

Now another three months later I replenished another 100mL before beginning the print session and the results are great. As the level was a bit low to begin with and went lower from the FB paper I added another 100mL fresh dev during the session. The developer in 1+4 dilution is its own replenisher. I similarly replenished the fixer from a bottle of working solution just as old as the tank solution. Each slot has 1.8L capacity.

The developer was slightly slower, with the picture emerging after around 8s instead of 4-5s, heated to around 25 degC. I printed on Adox MCC FB paper. I've got beautiful deep, black shadows from two PanF+ negatives. Seems quite neutral, no blue cast like I got from exhausted/oxidised Adox Neutol Eco on MCP RC paper.

I also have D76 stock solution, which has been around for a bit over a year. It is slightly yellow, so I did a clip test by taking a quick picture in a Minolta X500 and cutting the negative after opening the camera in the dark. I developed the single negative in a black 35mm film canister as a tank. And it came out just fine. So I used the stuff to develop 5 rolls of HP5+. I decided this test would be better than just developing a fogged piece of film in out in the light.

I also have Spur HRX fine grain developer in use, which I opened in August 2016. It is split into two components, though, which probably helps.

Finally my 1+4 solution of Adoxfix was exactly a year old. After the five rolls it hit the count at which I dump it. The stock bottle is three years old and had enough for one last batch. Adox recommends to use up the concentrate withing three months of opening. :D

After this final batch I will use for b/w film the same neutral fix, which I'm already using for printing. No more acidic fix for me.

So store your chemistry well, use protective gas cover (Butane) and run a test if you are worried.
 

mnemosyne

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I second that Tmax has very good keeping properties, I have a bottle open for over a year and it is still not showing signs of weakness. I do use protective gas. And generally I agree with lantau that most darkroom chemical concentrates are astonishingly robust when kept in proper containers. My Xtol solutions regularly last for 12+ months and I have kept partially filled bottles of paper developer (Rollei RPN and others) for similar timespans. Even working strength paper developer of RPN (1+4) will keep for several months without problems. From my personal experience the only exception to this rule is Fomatol PW (WT paper developer on powder basis), where the stock solution will go off within a couple of days after mixing, no matter what you do, so it is best used in one session and then discarded.
 

Neal

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I had a long opened bottle (10 years at least) with just a bit of brown stuff at the bottom and a roll of Kentmere 400 I didn't care about. My thinking was that it had to be diluted to get rid of it so why not. It worked nicely, but I would never have used it on anything I cared about.
 

Nokton48

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I know I bought a bottle of TMAX dev ten years ago, and it is around here somewhere.

Also found some TMAX 100 120 here and I'll bet that's a good combo.

And 4x5 TMAX 400, I guess XTOL works better on that.

Good to know the TMAX dev is working for everybody.
 

MattKing

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MattKing

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Thanks for not starting out that other thread with something like: "Kodak T-Max developer is no longer a quality product!"
:D:tongue:
 
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