Old papers

[Lanthanum]

Hello Everyone

I have a pile of old boxes of papers and was just wondering if you could help me identify any of these with a view to possibly using them. They are mostly dated around 2002-3, so maybe they are not usable anymore? They have been stored all this time in a cold dark space. Here is the list:

1. Agfa multi-contrast MtR-1 extra white glossy box (3.5 inch x 459ft x 76 mm)
2. Agfacolor Signum paper 100 sheets 8x10in CN310 Glossy
3. Agfacolor Signum paper 100 sheets 8x7in CN310 Glossy
4. Agfacolor Signum paper 50 sheets 12x16in CN310 Glossy
5. Ferrania Vega 208 Grade 312x15inch 10 sheets
6. Ilford Bromide Double Weight B3-1K 8x10inch 10 sheets
7. Ilford Cibachrome-A II 16x20inch De Luxe GlossyCPSA-1K 10 sheets
8. Ilford Cibachrome-A II 8x10inch De Luxe GlossyCPSA-1K 50 sheets
9. Ilford Multigrade IV RC Deluxe 8x10in Glossy
10. Kodak Kodabromide paper F-2 100 sheets 8x10in double weight
11. Kodak Kodabromide paper K-3 100 sheets 3.5x5.5in double weight
12. Kodak Kodabromide paper K-3 100 sheets 6.5x8.5in double weight
13. Miscellaneous small packs of Kodak and Ilford bromide and Contact sheets

There are between 1 and 7 boxes of each type. Anything usable? Thanks for your help!

 

[onre]

Generally speaking, age is not a problem. We've had great success with Agfa paper made in '60s and '70s.

 

[railwayman3]

I'd expect that most, if not all, of the papers would be fine, just run a test sheet on each one. I used up some Kentmere paper last year, purchased in the 1980's and stored in a dry cupboard, not fridged or frozen, and it was good.

 

[dE fENDER]

BW Paper - very probably is usable.
Color RA-4 - perhaps unusable. But if the storage was really cool, maybe it still can be used. You have to test some.
Cibachrome - I think, it's about 1990, not 2002. Later this paper had been renamed to Ilfochrome. Opposite to RA-4 , it's more likely to be usable, but with some difficulties - there is usually no fog, but only cyan layer has normal sensitivity - it's required to use filter values about 350 350 0 (for example).

 

[Harry Stevens]

Oddly enough I have some opened old paper (8x10 PAL B&W VC) that Jessops UK use to sell and I know that it is at least 25 years old and as been just kept in a book case and been very hot and cold during the seasons...The other night I was finishing my developing and noticed the packet and thought lets see if it still works, put my hand in the black bag and there was a piece cut off from all those years ago and so I done a test strip and it worked out fine............. After reading what I have done I was expecting very poor results but seems not

 

[bdial]

Take a couple of samples from each box, usually one sheet cut in half. Develop, stop and fix one half, only fix the other. Be sure to develop the first half for the same time you'd use for regular prints. Mark the backs so that you can keep track of everything.
Wash, then dry them. Ideally they should match, if there is fog, the developed half will show some tone compared to the fixed half.

 

[M Carter]

I buy up lots of old B&W paper for lith printing. (Lith can give clean whites with fairly fogged paper).

I cut a thin strip from each pack, maybe 1/4" x 2", develop half of the strip in normal print developer, fix and wash and turn the light on. You'll get a sample of paper white and how much fog, on the same strip. Dry it, write the date on it, scotch tape it to the paper package. (I consider my good liht papers as precious and priceless, so i don't use whole sheets for testing - just a sliver will give you an idea.)

 

[Gerald C Koch]

I believe that Cibachrome paper did not age well even when refrigerated and is probably beyond the pale. Regular color papers are not much better from my experience.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I was printing on old Agfa RC once. And used Ilford developer. Now I'm at another Agfa RC box with old Agfa paper developer.
It prints fine. The only problem I have, it is turning grey next day if I hold it in developer longer than 15 seconds or so.

#9 is to grab first

 

[Lanthanum]

Thank you everyone for your generous advice. It is encouraging that at least some of this might be usable. I also have a bunch of old chemistry with the lot. By the way, anyone know what is Agfa multi-contrast MtR-1?

 

[Larry the sailor]

I've had some recent experience with old B&W paper. I got a couple hundred pounds worth as part of a darkroom lot I bought a few months ago. Most of it is/was some high end FB paper but it had been store in uncontrolled temperature for a couple of decades. I've done several tests, half the sheet in the developer, half straight into the fixer. So far out of the first 6-8 unopened boxes I've tried most of it was fogged pretty badly, ran the range from a dark gray to straight up black after a couple minutes in the developer, one box showed some promise but I haven't had a chance to try to print with it yet. I've got some potassium bromide to try as a restrainer and will do some more testing when I get it.

 

[Rich Ullsmith]

Nothing there you listed is of any value, if it is fogged.

 

[freecitizen]

Could be alright for Lith printing. Fogging doesn't seem to prevent good Lith prints in many cases.