I use the Kodak filters with Ilford paper.
They range from yellow to magenta, so they're the right color.
My enlarger light source is a greenish Aristo grid (Zone VI compensating unit).
That said, I am so frustrated by the results that I use graded paper as much as I can.
So I cannot talk from "much" experience. One time I think I went from 2 to 2 1/2 and I couldn't tell there was any difference. I didn't think I got much contrast from 4.
My gut tells me that my light source is to blame.
The biggest issue I expect you would find is inconsistent spacing and exposure variations, two things the Ilford brand filters would be engineered to be better at.
the most flexible choice is using a color head, otherwise, I'd chose the Ilford set over the Kodak because for me it works better with more papers.I am in the process of setting up my first darkroom. I have acquired a Beseler 45 enlarger and Lenses. Currently on the "major auction site" there are several sets of Kodak Model A Polycontrast filters. How do these compare to the Ilford sets. Advice from experienced printers is appreciated. Thanks.
Most of the VC papers available today work are optimized to work best with modern Ilford filter sets, some color heads lack enough Magenta filtration to get all the way to a grade 5 but the filtration can always be supplemented with a stronger filter in the filter drawer of under the lens. I rarely need that much oomph when printing my own negatives but it's nice once in a while for special effects printing or rescue attempts on other folks underexposed negative.the most flexible choice is using a color head, otherwise, I'd chose the Ilford set over the Kodak because for me it works better with more papers.
I’d have to check the color of the light. The light definitely lacks red, but there should be enough blue.There is not enough blue in those heads.
Yellow & magenta or blues / green will get a proper grade on any VC paper. They will not be speed matched like the Ilford ones and steps between grades may be off.
Bill with so many of the higher grades of paper being discontinued how is that whole graded paper thing working out? I used a lot of the original Ilfobrom and Ilfospeed RC (loved it) and Kodabromide (also OK) but quit using graded papers. I found I was printing the heck out of grades 2 and 3 but rarely using the other grades and I think others had the same issue, over the years fewer and fewer papers were offered in all five grades.I’d have to check the color of the light. The light definitely lacks red, but there should be enough blue.
dabsond... I recommend Ilford filters for the reasons below...
You wouldn’t probably have the light color problem. But the other two issues will come your way.
The frustration involved with not being speed matched is... you will have to do another test strip to find the right printing time if you change grade filter.
The frustration involved with not being evenly spaced is similar but frustrating because you can’t be sure how much of a difference the filter change made.
While these two frustrations will not keep you from getting the exact print you want, they will have you questioning your own abilities.
Now a determined do-it-yourself’er will enjoy working through these issues but I “threw my hands up” and decided to use graded paper so that I would never have the problem again.
I use Galerie grade 2 and 3, and I use MG for grade 4 when I need it.Bill with so many of the higher grades of paper being discontinued how is that whole graded paper thing working out? I used a lot of the original Ilfobrom and Ilfospeed RC (loved it) and Kodabromide (also OK) but quit using graded papers. I found I was printing the heck out of grades 2 and 3 but rarely using the other grades and I think others had the same issue, over the years fewer and fewer papers were offered in all five grades.
You assume graded papers are speed-matched? If so, at what paper density?I’d have to check the color of the light. The light definitely lacks red, but there should be enough blue.
dabsond... I recommend Ilford filters for the reasons below...
You wouldn’t probably have the light color problem. But the other two issues will come your way.
The frustration involved with not being speed matched is... you will have to do another test strip to find the right printing time if you change grade filter.
The frustration involved with not being evenly spaced is similar but frustrating because you can’t be sure how much of a difference the filter change made.
While these two frustrations will not keep you from getting the exact print you want, they will have you questioning your own abilities.
Now a determined do-it-yourself’er will enjoy working through these issues but I “threw my hands up” and decided to use graded paper so that I would never have the problem again.
Get new Ilford filters. Filters can and do fade over the years. Why take a chance. Buy new ones and let your filters grow old with you. Maybe every twenty or thirty years, buy a new set........Save money somewhere else. Those filters are important. I speak from experience........Regards!I am in the process of setting up my first darkroom. I have acquired a Beseler 45 enlarger and Lenses. Currently on the "major auction site" there are several sets of Kodak Model A Polycontrast filters. How do these compare to the Ilford sets. Advice from experienced printers is appreciated. Thanks.
+1Get new Ilford filters. Filters can and do fade over the years. Why take a chance. Buy new ones and let your filters grow old with you. Maybe every twenty or thirty years, buy a new set........Save money somewhere else. Those filters are important. I speak from experience........Regards!
Well that’s a rough match anyway. If I’m looking at around 40 seconds grade 2, I’ll still look at making a test strip around 40 seconds grade 3. But it’s always a test strip for me.You assume graded papers are speed-matched? If so, at what paper density?
They usually are speed matched to some sort of mid-tone but I never found it any more convenient, you still need to test, it's more hype that reality. It will kind of, sort of, maybe get you in the right ball park, but that's it. (Just like VC paper speed matches, I'm rarely worried about mid-tones if I switch paper grades.)You assume graded papers are speed-matched? If so, at what paper density?
Yup, if you aren't making test strips you're just goofing off. I see my students waste sheet after sheet of paper to save the time it would take to make one test strip. I now require them to turn in a test strip with every print they submit for grade.Well that’s a rough match anyway. If I’m looking at around 40 seconds grade 2, I’ll still look at making a test strip around 40 seconds grade 3. But it’s always a test strip for me.
Great idea for grade. Also grade where the test strip was made, i.e. for portraits I run them through both eyes and hair. Use the contact sheet to adjust values in other areas if required.Yup, if you aren't making test strips you're just goofing off. I see my students waste sheet after sheet of paper to save the time it would take to make one test strip. I now require them to turn in a test strip with every print they submit for grade.
EVERY time I make a print without having a conclusive test strip, the result is less than I expected.Great idea for grade. Also grade where the test strip was made, i.e. for portraits I run them through both eyes and hair.
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