Numbering film holders and recording exposure.

[RalphLambrecht]

I may have to 'steal' this idea.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I may have to 'steal' this idea.

Don't steal it! Just use your automatic copyright and trade marking machine.

Steve

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I actually think this great idea can be improved on by having only one label filled with a white-to-black gradient and a white number with a black outline inside it. It would eliminate the need for having two labels. I already gave an example of that in post #36.

 

[eclarke]

I use gaffer's residue free paper tape, place a strip on each side of the holder, make all my notes and then let the tape follow the neg to it's envelope and affix another strip of tape for development info. It's made in many colors and I use 4 or 5 to color code the emulsion that's in the holder...EC

 

[Sirius Glass]

I would like something like what is on post #50 for my six Grafmatic 45s.

Steve

 

[Neil Poulsen]

Here's the system that I use. These are Avery 8066 removable labels. They're about 5/8" wide and fit perfectly on a 4x5 film holder. I record all my info on these.

One can use Word to print these on a LaserJet. It's a bit of a task getting the registration right on each label. I use regular paper, sandwich it with a page of unprinted labels, and hold it up to a light to check the registration.

I record the following just after loading the film into the holder. "F" is for the film type. I generally use "dt" for the date that I load the film. (Maybe better would be the expiration date of the film.)

I record the remaining fields after I expose the film. "D" is for the development (N, N+1, etc.) for black and white film. "Rf" is for a reference number, if I decide that I need one. "L" is for which lens was used.

As I remove film from the holder and put it into an extra box, I can paste the label onto that box until the film's developed. They're expensive, but it's important to get the removable labels. They're very easy to remove and don't tear.

After the film's developed, these labels can be placed on a page of paper for archiving. The adhesive can weaken, so one could use a glue stick to make the bond more permanent.

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

I usually compose to the edge, so I prefer the (Ralph's) notched holder idea, but these ideas are worth considering.

 

[Toffle]

Here's the system that I use. These are Avery 8066 removable labels. They're about 5/8" wide and fit perfectly on a 4x5 film holder. I record all my info on these.

...

I record the remaining fields after I expose the film. "D" is for the development (N, N+1, etc.) for black and white film. "Rf" is for a reference number, if I decide that I need one. "L" is for which lens was used.

As I remove film from the holder and put it into an extra box, I can paste the label onto that box until the film's developed.

After the film's developed, these labels can be placed on a page of paper for archiving. The adhesive can weaken, so one could use a glue stick to make the bond more permanent.

This is pretty much exactly the system I use, except (and more to the point of this thread) I identify the film holder as well. When I develop the sheets, the labels are transferred to my processing journal. There is a reduncancy in my procedure which I could probably eliminate, as I also record all this information in my field notes as well, but I like the discipline of my notebook. (hm... pretty sure I typed all this once before, so I'm probably posting this information twice. Still, it reinforces Neil's comment.)

Cheers,

 

[premo]

On the subject of which side of the darkslide for un-exposed, on my darkeslides the silver sides have little raised dots you can feel in the dark. Handy at night. I don't know if non-American dark slides are made this way.

 

[Subversive Mk II]

Randy,

Thanks so much! I just finished making the tabs and now all my 4x5 Fidelity Film Holders are numbered.

See attached PDF file.

Thanks for that, much appreciated here.