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abruzzi

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I want to try that. I have some old hand-me-down fuji 8x10 color paper. I have a 4x5 camera. I'll need an RA4 kit, a paper cutter/guillotine, and some filters.
 

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This has been posted for nearly 20 years, to show how to get positives from direct exposure and reversal process. There are literally hundreds of posts on this deriving from my original work, and that of others on Photo Net. See them sometime.

This is NOT original. Just new people.

PE
 
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Is there a definitive description of both color and B&W print reversal technique(s) that new enthusiasts can read up? The books on darkroom printing that I've don't have anything on them and information on the internet is scattered.
 

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Interesting, and surprising that it appears to turn out that good. I'm wondering if that would work equally well with slides?
 

abruzzi

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Is there a definitive description of both color and B&W print reversal technique(s) that new enthusiasts can read up? The books on darkroom printing that I've don't have anything on them and information on the internet is scattered.

yeah, I'd love to see something with more specifics, which the video was a little short on.
 
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Rodrigo Silva

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It is certainly not the original and he does not claim to be the creator of the process, even he mentions that he used forum references. But showing the whole process on video brings new enthusiasts like myself, for example, who have never seen anything like this and now I'm very excited to test with my 4x5.

I just got some paper (using Fujifilm Crystal Archive) and I'm already doing my first tests for now using warming filters Type 85 and 81.
82057920_389679881855492_7136298521212223488_n.jpg
Here are some of my results...
81702242_2930096817023570_3818963569597218816_n.jpg 82016124_787160891760133_7126435742997282816_n.jpg 83089260_939358326460114_380359318731489280_n.jpg

Now trying to find a set of Cibachrome filters for fine tuning and maybe be able to apply the process to portraits with flash.
 

thuggins

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While this whole "who invented it first" argument is fascinating, the video does raise some interesting points. The dye image must be extremely dense, essentially opaque in fact. The highlights on the finished picture are not noticeably darkened by the negative image underlying them. For the second picture the guy does mention a difference, but it must be slight as it is not obvious on the video.

Which leads to the second point. For the second picture he skips the bleach, but puts it thru the fix. If the image isn't bleached, there should be no need to fix. More to the point, there is nothing to fix. After the first and color developers in a reversal process, all the silver halide has been reduced. So there is nothing left to be dissolved out by the fix. It would seem that this process could be done with just two steps, the first developer and the color developer.
 

tezzasmall

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I was surprised to see how little (= none at all) agitating of the print tray was done. I wouldn't have expected a uniformly developed print without it, but on screen at least, the print looked fine. It does make one wonder how many other processing techniques we use are also unnecessary?

Terry S
 

Rodrigo Silva

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Continuing the tests... I would like to share my best result so far.
I rate for about ISO 1, filtration is 3x 85 + CC20M light source flash.
img20200119_19151349.jpg
Dektol 1:2 (1:30min)
Stop (20sec)
Wash/ expose to white light (1min)
RA-4 (1:30 min)
Blix (1min)
 
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