Nova Two Slot paper processor

[ericdan]

I've seen their tri slot and fiber paper slanted processors but they all had three slots which kind of makes sense. What would a two slot processor be good for?
Dev and fix without stop?

 

[Neal]

Guessing wildly they were targeted at RA-4 printers as most of those kits don't suggest the use of a stop bath.

Neal Wydra

 

[FujiLove]

You can also tag them onto another processor for situations where you want to run two fixing steps, or toning etc.

I use a four slot heated processor for RA4: dev-stop-wash-blix

 

[pentaxuser]

I always thought that RA4 does need a stop stage or at least is better with one. The same is true of B&W but you are right you can go straight to fix from dev but will exhaust your fix much faster. I think that most if not all two slot Novas do not have a thermostatically controlled temperature so they rely on the room being warm enough i.e. about 18-20C

pentaxuser

 

[ericdan]

FujiLove. So the temperature control is pretty accurate on these? No color shift on RA4 prints ?

 

[FujiLove]

FujiLove. So the temperature control is pretty accurate on these? No color shift on RA4 prints ?

My heated Nova tank keeps the temperature dead-on. The water jacket contains a lot of water and the vertical slots relatively little, so I imagine any drop in temperature caused by inserting the paper is quickly corrected. I used to check the temperature every now and again, and rarely noticed more than half a degree drop. It's back up to full temp by the time a print is washed and the next sheet is on the easel. Now I don't bother with the thermometer during processing. I just give the dev and blix a check before starting a print session in case I've accidentally moved the control dial.

What isn't accurate (at least with my tank) is the control dial on the thermostat. Mine is at least two degrees out compared to my Jobo colour thermometer, so I had to calibrate it when I bought the tank. It took an hour and I haven't had to touch it since. I'm under the impression that RA4 is a relatively forgiving medium, so super-exact temperature control may not be absolutely necessary, but it bothered me that it wasn't spot-on!

The key to using these tanks is remembering to switch them on before use. I give mine 90 minutes to warm up and settle down before I start printing.

 

[ericdan]

I actually found a four slot processor without the floating lids for dirt cheap. Can these floating lids be replaced by maybe PVC pipes cut to the right length?

 

[klownshed]

I actually found a four slot processor without the floating lids for dirt cheap. Can these floating lids be replaced by maybe PVC pipes cut to the right length?

The floating lids are exactly that, just plastic pipes. So yes, they can easily be replaced with plastic/pvc pipes cut to size.

 

[FujiLove]

I actually found a four slot processor without the floating lids for dirt cheap. Can these floating lids be replaced by maybe PVC pipes cut to the right length?

I also cover the top with cling film to reduce the oxygen flow. The chemicals keep for weeks.

Have fun, it's a great bit of kit.

 

[ericdan]

Received the processor. It's an 11x14 four slot heated processor. Takes 110V directly which is nice for me in Japan.
The slots are quite dirty, but I think a scrub with oxy clean will take care of that.
One of the acryl drain pipes broke off during transport. Easily fixed with Acryl cement.
I am missing valves aka Nova Drain Taps.

I assume I can use any valve that will fit the rubber tube for this?

 

[FujiLove]

Received the processor. It's an 11x14 four slot heated processor. Takes 110V directly which is nice for me in Japan.
The slots are quite dirty, but I think a scrub with oxy clean will take care of that.
One of the acryl drain pipes broke off during transport. Easily fixed with Acryl cement.
I am missing valves aka Nova Drain Taps.

I assume I can use any valve that will fit the rubber tube for this?

You should be able to use any sort of tap. There's nothing special about them as far as I can see. Just make sure they're a tight fit otherwise they drip annoyingly.

 

[FujiLove]

Received the processor. It's an 11x14 four slot heated processor. Takes 110V directly which is nice for me in Japan.
The slots are quite dirty, but I think a scrub with oxy clean will take care of that.
One of the acryl drain pipes broke off during transport. Easily fixed with Acryl cement.
I am missing valves aka Nova Drain Taps.

I assume I can use any valve that will fit the rubber tube for this?

You can still order spares and repair kits if you need them: https://www.theimagingwarehouse.com/ProductGrp/Print-Processor-Accessories-Spares

 

[bdial]

I've found the taps supplied by Nova are a little better than what I've been able to source from the hardware stores/home centers. But any will do. Since the tubing is metric, you probably have better local availability for those spares than I do however, I ended up buying them from Nova/Imaging Warehouse when I needed to replace the tubes.

If one of your tubes has broken, the others may not be far behind, at least, that's been my experience. Replacing the tubes isn't difficult, but does require drilling out the remains of the old tube.

 

[ericdan]

Thanks a lot. Good to know that they can be completely replaced by drilling them out if necessary.
In my case I was able to use Acryl cement to connect the broken part back. Tried filling the slot with water and the cemented pipe seems to be working well. I also ordered the spare kit from Nova.
Next steps will be cleaning the slots. I just bought a bottle of oxiclean.
One of the slots seems to have stuff growing on the walls. I assume that was the slot used for the fixer.

what chemistry are you guys using with this? In Japan the only one I seem to be able to find is Ektacolor RA-RT 10L.

 

[bdial]

I am using mine for B&W, so it's developer, stop, and two fixer baths.

 

[FujiLove]

I use the Kodak RA4 chemicals (20l kits I think). I mix 5l at a time and store it in small pet bottles. It keeps for months like that. I'm sure I read somewhere on here that RA4 developer actually keeps better as working solution than concentrate, although I don't understand why.

I use 1.5% acetic acid stop bath.

 

[ericdan]

The new drain pipes and taps arrived and the processor working fine.
The temperature scale needed calibration. setting it to 44 gave me 35 degrees.
That's a minor thing. The processor keeps the chemicals at a very stable temperature. My prints are coming out just fine.
This is a very convenient system for printing. I am thinking of getting another processor for black and white work.

 

[FujiLove]

The new drain pipes and taps arrived and the processor working fine.
The temperature scale needed calibration. setting it to 44 gave me 35 degrees.
That's a minor thing. The processor keeps the chemicals at a very stable temperature. My prints are coming out just fine.
This is a very convenient system for printing. I am thinking of getting another processor for black and white work.

Good to hear you're all up and running. My temperature dial was also inaccurate, but only by a couple of degrees. I've stuck a couple of pieces of tape over the top to keep it from getting knocked out of place.

I also use the Monochrome B&W processor, and contrary to some reports, they work great with both resin-coated and fibre papers.

 

[ericdan]

being able to quickly print a few frames then put the lids back on is super convenient.
No setup and almost no clean-up necessary. Just print when you want to print.

 

[BetterSense]

So if you used one for black and white, what chemicals would you use and how long would they last? If I used Dektol and rapid fix, could I leave it for months?

 

[bdial]

So if you used one for black and white, what chemicals would you use and how long would they last? If I used Dektol and rapid fix, could I leave it for months?

I use a four slot Nova, I have developer, stop and two fixer baths. In mine the 4th slot could also be used for washing.

Dektol will not last for months, probably more like a week or so, but some of the long-lived developer formulas will last longer, for example Ansco 130 or Liquidol from Photographers Formulary. It's very easy to use the developer until exhaustion vs it going bad from oxidation. Stop and fix will last almost indefinitely if it's not getting used. You will lose some volume due to evaporation if it sits idle for extended time.

 

[ericdan]

Are you using the floating lids and cling wrap when you're done? I think you can get much more than a week out of your dektol. Obviously this depends a lot on how much paper you run through it too.

 

[FujiLove]

So if you used one for black and white, what chemicals would you use and how long would they last? If I used Dektol and rapid fix, could I leave it for months?

I use Fotospeed B&W chemicals and haven't had any problems. I print for a couple of evenings and replenish when done, cover with cling film and attach the one piece lid. I can go a week without printing and the chemicals seem to be fine. I may drain some off and replenish before starting if it's been a few days since using it. I usually ditch all the chemicals after three or four weeks and start afresh.

 

[klownshed]

I use Ilford chemicals and don't use clingfilm as I found it got messy. I find the floating lids work better without the clingfilm, allowing for a little expansion more easily.

I replenish at the end of a print session (when I remember) as per Nova's instructions (more or less) and as FujiLove, I dump the lot every few weeks or if I know I'm not going to print for a while.

The Nova makes printing in a non-dedicated darkroom far easier and quicker to set up. Highly recommended.

 

[BMbikerider]

My 1st NOVA was 12x16 twin slot and I used it from the onset for RA4 printing. I ALWAYS use a stop bath because this does extend the life of the bleach-fix (Stop bath is cheaper than blix)! So I used to heat a 12x16 dish with blix, alongside the NOVA and pour it back into the container when my session was over. I never had a problem with it, either through chemical deterioration or the heating element burning out. That was about 17 years ago and sold it to buy a 3 slot which actually wasn't very good. It had a water leak internally and the blix used to get contaminated with water from one of the heating baths. (Replaced under warranty)

I now have a 2 bath (for B&W) and a 4 bath which is used for RA4. I find the 4 bath far to heavy and cumbersome to move about (approx 30Lb weight for the water+chemicals alone) which I have to do occasionally because it is not plumbed in and I have to drain it to clean outside. I would dearly like another 3 bath, now that was a manageable size although almost as heavy. They are still made but cost a fortune. I always replenish all three baths at the end of a session at the ration of 100cc per each 800 sq ins of paper processed and the lngest I have kept it on the 'go' before emptying the tank and cleaning it out was 18 months and still prodicing decent prints.

I have used cling film from the start and have never had a problem with mess. It certainly helps with the preservation of the chemicals, especially the developer. If it is applied correctly, as each of the baths cool down, it forms a semi vacuum under the film so reducing the ingress of oygen.

They are a brilliant bit of kit and so simple and reliable.