No truly DARKroom - want to try LF plates

[digiconvert]

I use a study/darkroom for my photography and get by with blacked out windows etc. for printing and a changing bag to load film into daylight tanks. But I am pretty sure the light leaks I get would be too much for tray processing of film or plates. Any ideas or am I unlikely to be able to do this ?

Sending away for development is not really an option and any further light proofing would probably not be feasible if I am also to buy the LF gear , my wife is long suffering but there are limits

 

[Neal]

Hello digi,

Do you have a room in the house without windows? It's fairly easy to seal up a single door with weatherstripping. Use it only for developing sheet film and your Bride will probably give you a pass. :>)

Neal Wydra

 

[digiconvert]

Hello digi,

Do you have a room in the house without windows?

Neal Wydra

Unfortunately the house is wonderfully light and airy in all rooms (including the bathrooms )

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

get yourself some blackout cloth, make it into a curtain, and then you can hang it from a circular rod, like a shower curtain. The circular rod can be suspended from a single hook in the ceiling which can be placed discreetly, and even painted to blend in to the color of the ceiling so when not in use, it is quite inconspicuous. You can then process inside this "tent" which will give you a functioning cone of darkness. Think of it as the most opaque mosquito netting you've ever been under

 

[Justin Cormack]

The Paterson Orbital processor can be used as a daylight processor for large format, just load it in a changing bag. Unfortunately they are getting a bit expensive as they arent made any more.

http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps how orbital.html

 

[bdial]

There are also the Jobo 2500 series tanks and reels for large format. The tank can be used in the same way as a roll film tank, though it takes a lot of chemistry to fill it. As far as I know they are still being made. Another possibility might be the Combiplan tank. It looks like it might be a little easier than a Jobo to deal with in a changing bag. http://www.novadarkroom.com/product/123/Combiplan_5x4_Sheet_Film_Tank_.html

Barry

 

[RobC]

I use a study/darkroom for my photography and get by with blacked out windows etc. for printing and a changing bag to load film into daylight tanks. But I am pretty sure the light leaks I get would be too much for tray processing of film or plates. Any ideas or am I unlikely to be able to do this ?

Sending away for development is not really an option and any further light proofing would probably not be feasible if I am also to buy the LF gear , my wife is long suffering but there are limits

The combi plan which is a daylight processing tank, takes 4x5 plates.

As for blacking out a room, I found black out cloth to be a pain as well. What I have done is to buy a piece of mdf and cut so that it fits into the full window area and covers the window frame completely top, bottom and sides. I then cut 1 inch strips from each side and permanently fixed the strips to the window frame. The remaining central piece fits into the hole exactly and I have glued a strip of black felt around the edge of the central piece so that when it is put into the window is up against the window frame. Then I have put some little brass rotating clips on the outer strips so that I just put the mdf board into place and rotate the clips and it is held in place with absolutely no light leaks. Only takes a few seconds to put in and if you paint the outer strips the same colour as the window frame, it looks OK as well. Only problem is if you have metal or UPVC windows frames which I don't. I also attached a couple round draw opening knobs to the central piece which makes lifting it in or out of place a breeze.
As for the door, some rubber draught excluding strips top and both sides make it light tight and a towel thrown across the bottom stops light when closed.

 

[Salmonoid]

I use a 5x7 camera, and use a large changing back to load a Jobo 2830 drum with four sheets of film for processing. I originally had a problem with overlapping during development and a few negatives were ruined. I then obtained a plastic t-clip that inserts in the drum and all is well. My next improvement in my process is the purchase of a changing tent. You may want to look into one of these as well.

 

[Sirius Glass]

digi,

Welcome back from the darkside.

Two suggestions:
1. I use a large Photoflex "Changing Room" bag [also sold by Calumet for less under their name] which is 17" H x 17" W x 21" D. This would work for loading sheet film into holders and tanks, but I do not know if it has the room needed for LF plates.

2. I found three solutions for my windows and doors:

1. The bathroom window is 2' W x 4' H with a semicircular top. I put a large sheet of brown paper on the window to trace out a template. I had the template used to cut a piece of 1/2" plywood slightly smaller than the window opening. Then I took a large sheet of blackout material, doubled it over and tacked it to the plywood with carpet tacks. Finally, I screwed two handles on top of the blackout and into the plywood. This way I can steer the fixture into to window without scrapping the paint. I use black gaffers tape to hold any wayward blackout cloth to the wall.
2. I tried putting flattened cardboard boxes behind the wood Venusian blinds in the large windows only to find too many light leaks. I brought 1" wide double stick white Velcro and blackout material and put the material with the tape over the window. The Velcro is across the top and down the sides. Since the Velcro is almost the same color as the walls, it does not look that obvious. The velco can be peeled off when the room needs to be painted. The cloth is much wider than the door.
3. I put the double stick Velcro on the top of the door jambs so that it does not show and hand the blackout cloth from there. No rods or clasps! I use black gaffers tape at various places down the sides. The cloth is much wider than the door.

Gaffers tape does not mar the paint.

Where is the darkroom building forum??
​

Steve

 

[gainer]

Get a paper safe with a lid that extends its full length. It is liquid as well as light tight. You can load it, with developer and film under a makeshift tent, close the lid and turn on the lights. Agitate by tray rocking. Cheap as well.