Nick Zentena
Member
Divided D-23 is just a marketing term-( D-23 is basically a neutral pH developer. That second bath surely must raise the pH and change how things work.
gnashings said:I feel I should give it a try. This mixing seems like someting I can do in my laundry sink without need for special equipment or ridiculous adherence to temperatures, etc. One more thing - how dangerous are these processes. Is there anything here that is so harmful that it requires more than the usual common sense and workplace clenliness?
Nick Zentena said:Divided D-23 is just a marketing term-( D-23 is basically a neutral pH developer. That second bath surely must raise the pH and change how things work.
srs5694 said:Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can often be substituted for hydroquinone, and phenidone can often be used in place of metol. (Phenidone has a reputation for being less of a health/environmental negative than metol.) In fact, there's a formula that makes these substitutions (and I believe a few other tweaks) to the D72 formula, known as E72. I've not yet tried it, but the description says it works much like D72.
E-72 is a nice dev., but I've found it doesn't last very long. My own Dektol/D72 does ok, but nothing seems to last as long as packaged Dektol and I'm not sure why. Dektol just seems to keep going, and going, and going...
Tom Hoskinson said:According to the JT Baker MSDS on Sodium Sulfite, the pH of an aqueous solution is around 9 and thus is alkaline.
Both D23 and POTA Developers rely entirely on Sodium Sulfite for their alkali.
If you add a "B" bath containing a stronger alkali (Sodium or Potassium Carbonate or Hydroxide or one of the Borates) that will increase the activity of the developer.
gnashings said:OK, lots of book marks, lots of reading!!!
jim appleyard said:Ed Buffaloe has a developer cost section as well on his site, unblinkingeye.com. It would be interesting to compare the two.
Zathras said:Why not get a good scale and bulk chems and make D-72, a genuine Kodak formula that is for all purposes the same as Dektol. Then you could have the satisfaction of using a developer that behaves exactly like like dektol, from an official Kodak formula, without paying a penny to Kodak.
Mike Sullivan
fotch said:What would a good scale cost? What type is recommended? I did a search for the old fashion scale that you put weight on one side of the beam, then use the other side to measure out a matching amount. Came up empty. Only found triple beam or electronic. Seemed expensive although I may just be cheap. Any suggestions would be appreciated. T
fotch said:What would a good scale cost? What type is recommended?
srs5694 said:Basically, I get exactly the opposite conclusions on the store-bought versus mix-it-yourself cost question. I think there are two or three things going on in terms of these differences:
Nick Zentena said:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=11814&item=7500094641
That's the one I bought. Mine came with only one battery and was even cheaper. I guess the seller has raised his prices since I got mine.
Nick Zentena said:My big issue with the Unblinkingeye list is I think he used small purchases. I buy most of my chemicals in at least the 5lb size. Some times the 10lb size. Only metol and other developing agents get bought in 1lb sizes. The price break from buying bigger bags is often pretty big.
srs5694 said:I'd have to disagree with John. Most formulas include amounts of 1g, 2g, 3g, or so. For instance, D76 includes 2g of metol and 2g of borax, and D72 has 3g of metol and 2g of potassium bromide. (Both are for 1 liter of stock solution.) Worse, some formulas use even smaller quantities of some things. Phenidone is routinely measured in tenths of a gram (0.4g in E72, for instance).
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. |
PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY: ![]() |