BTW, the Nikonscan manual goes into great detail about setting up black and white points if you haven't already reviewed it -> Nikon Scan support
Thanks. that link appears to be broken but i have the original disk around here somewhere. one thing i think nikonscan needs that i rely on vuescan for is that white point (doesn't need to underexpose the negative) and the white balance feature. it just makes the original scan a bit closer to what i need to begin editing. but i will try all your recommendations. thanks
Automatically vuescan sets the white point at 1%, which means that 99% of whites are being captured and it's letting the other 1% clip. What I do is, instead of setting white point to 1, I set it to .1. That means it's capturing 99.9% of whites, and only letting .1% clip. Sounds like nothing, but try it. There's a lot more there. You can change the white point frame per frame or do a batch scan with the same white point.Odd about that link requiring password - or sometimes not, when I click it on my phone or another computer?
Google nikonscan manual and the pdf comes up directly -> https://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/NS4_man.pdf
Although I've made many scans over the years, I will try setting black and white points. In vuescan, is that particular to each and every frame?
Can anyone help me move into nikonscan from vuescan? I love the inversion software and the scan options in vuescan but the ICE is horrible and leaves noticeable scarring. unlike nikonscan which has real ICE and works beautifully without artifacting.
What I’d like to do in nikonscan is edit white balance like i do in vuescan, as well as set the white point to preserve highlights like I can in vuescan (moving it from 1% to .1%)
does anyone know if something like this is possible? the nikonscan software is kind of hard for me to navigate. i have done the time learning vuescan to the point where i can get a flat, linear scan with shadow and highlight detail, whereas NS does tend to crush the lower and blow the higher ends.
Gear: nikon coolscan 5000, windows 10
There is a topic which pertains to your question over on the Nikon Coolscan Facebook Group.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1514948298527146
Check out the recent thread by Allen Ying. In short, my understanding is that Nikon Scan applies quite aggressive clipping to both ends of the histogram, and it's extremely difficult to bypass those. Though, there is a hack as suggested in the thread above. Vuescan makes it much simpler to extend the histogram to include the complete distribution tails.
However - I do understand your desire to use NikonScan. I use both Vuescan and Nikonscan and like both. On top of the ICE/ROC/GEM advantages you mention, there is another massive one: Nikonscan's colour inversion routines are breathtakingly good. Leagues ahead of what Vuescan does out of the box, and better IME even than these expensive tools popping out today. It completely obliterates Negative Lab Pro, for instance, whereas Colorperfect gets you there, but the learning curve is much steeper. Of course, you could obtain similar results with Vuescan and a good amount of post-processing work on the linear 48bit positive, but why not use that time to go out and shoot some more. I should also say Nikonscan's clipping is not an issue with low to medium contrast negatives IME.
I wish there was another way of another app with actual ICE GEM DEE etc
nikon scan inversion is good. i have a workflow down in vuescan that gets pretty close, i mean i can’t tell the difference at this point. negative lab pro is so bad its useless. the problem is, i do tend to shoot 1/2 to 1 stop over box speed on color negative so ns is very bad at drawing out the info i need. i think the solution to mentioned above into tricking the scanner into exposing down is too much work and even then it looks like the results are simply too dark for me to want to work from. i wish there was another app with actual ICE GEM DEE etc
What's your issue with NLP? It's been excellent for me using DSLR scanning.
color negative? different strokes i guess.
C-41 and ECN-II developed in C-41.
I'm about to get a Coolscan 5000 that a local photographer is done with. I'm following this convo to see what I need to do to get it up and running and if it's worth the effort. I have my DSLR workflow down pretty pat but I suspect a dedicated machine designed for scanning may do better.
I bought a cheap HP desktop with a built-in firewire port runing Windows Vista and use it with Nikonscan 4.03. I believe there is a way to run Nikonscan on current OS. I just haven't bothered since I use the PC just as a dedicated scanning machine.
BTW, in the tens of thousands of frames from all types of 35mm films I've scanned todate with the 5000 - including some 110, I've only encountered one problem. A particular 6 frame strip of seemingly well exposed color negatives I inserted into the SA21 would misregister the frames and would be offset from frames 2 - 6. It was from a coworker's collection of films who tried it on his 5000 and noticed that it was misregistering the frame so he asked me to try it on mine. Interestingly enough, I simply inserted it the other way around - instead of frames 1-2-3-4-5-6 to 6-5-4-3-2-1, and it scanned just fine. Really odd and I've only encountered it that one time and was not a problem with the rest of that roll.
Agreed. Big fan on Vuescan mind you, but it's odd they never quite got to drive the IR channel the way Nikon does via its software. I wonder why. It has to be due to copyrighted Assembler code too tricky to reverse engineer.
I have an old windows 7 machine. Might be worthwhile to make it a scanning rig. I'd have to get a firewire card for it though.
110 can be scanned with the 5000? I guess I'd have to look for the carrier for it.
they probably don’t care enough to do a better job. it works for most who aren’t looking as closely, and it’s like one guy writing the software. i’d pay double if they were able to license ice software from kodak or something
Now I've seen 110 film carriers but when I scanned mine I simply sandwhiched it with the FH3 then scooted it up manually. It was really tedious but I didn't have too many and it's a mere seconds to scan a frame.
Scanning 110 film with the Coolscan 5000 by Les DMess, on Flickr
Also much easier to do it on my 9000 and glass holder now if I need to do more.
I bought a cheap HP desktop with a built-in firewire port runing Windows Vista and use it with Nikonscan 4.03. I believe there is a way to run Nikonscan on current OS.
Les, I run NikonScan 4.0.3 without any issues on a relatively modern Windows 10 64bit Dell PC, my standard workstation. I used the instructions here
Using NikonScan
Nikon Coolscan photo-scanner servicing & repair based in Lincoln UKlincolnscan.co.uk
My Coolscan 8000ED by the way was recognized by the machine and worked straight out of the box using one of those cheap PCI-E Firewire Cards. Just popped it in and was ready to go.
I might just stick with the DSLR for 110/16mm. Thanks for the photos though, very helpful.
I'm sure you'll be able to determine which one is best to use specially after you get your Coolscan 5000!
BTW, the manual suggests sufficient RAM in the scanning PC as it uses quite a bit. This and a USB2 port will affect scan speed. With mine, a 4000dpi scan takes about 30 seconds without ICE and about 50 seconds with ICE.
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