Nikon Mechanical Camera Body Recommendations . . .

[Ozark Wolverine]

I have a Nikon n8008s my Aunt passed down to me about 7-8 years ago . . . works flawlessly but is VERY complex (and capable) but I prefer simple, mechanical cameras with a light meter. KEH gets about $70 for a Excellent Condition n8008s condition body . . . so it is not very highly regarded probably due to its complexity and the fact that Electronic film cameras are difficult to repair..

I got two Nikon lenses with the camera . . .

1: AF Nikkor 28-85mm f 3.5-4.5
2: AF Nikkor 75-300mm f 4.5-5.6

Are these lenses compatible with the older Nikon bodies??

Lenses are in like new condition . . . shot a roll of Tri X with it today with no issues using both lenses. Hope to process this roll in a week or so (still setting up/building ) my darkroom after a move.

I have settled on a Nikon F or F2 body. If you would recommend another Mechanical Nikon . . . which one and why? Remember . . the ONLY THING I want the battery to do is run the exposure meter.

Thanks

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

If it were me, I would keep the 8008. It works in manual mode, if that is your druthers. And you can use AF and AE when taking snapshot pictures.

AF lenses aren't great in MF mode. The focus ring only has minimal motion and the action isn't damped. If you want to use a manual body then you may want to get manual lenses.

Assuming your AF zooms have f-stop rings then they should be compatible with the F2AS, FM, FM2 bodies. If the lenses have rabbit ears for aperture coupling then you can use the lenses with the F & F2 with older metered finders and with the Nikkormat bodies.

 

[juan]

Agree. I have a 8008. It can be usable and the lenses are decent with it. My main 35mm is an F2, but I use the manual lenses made for it. I also have an F. The Makers learned from the F and Made many small improvements on the F2 that make it a superior camera.

 

[gone]

That's my main camera. If you put it on P it will do all the focus and exposure for you, and if you aren't happy w/ the meter reading in the viewfinder,slide the AE lock and lock the exposure where you want it. Yes, it has a complicated menu but I never go into it. These are essentially pro cameras, but they won't feel like a classic Nikon SLR in your hands.

AF lenses won't be as nice to focus on a manual focus SLR as a manual focus lens, they're not really well damped. You'll have to do some serious research on the older cameras because of potential lens compatibility issues.

The Nikkormats are tough as nails too, there's so many different Nikons SLRs to choose from, your choices sounds fine. I've used them all probably and usually end up buying a Nikkormat, but get put off by the weight and lack of eye relief for my glasses. So it's invariably replaced w/ the n8008s. Those things just work, and the exposure is always on the money.

 

[__Brian]

The lenses will work on an F2A or F2AS. You can also use them on the FM, FM2, and Nikkormat FT3.
All are mechanical cameras with battery required for meter only.

 

[Moose22]

Those lenses would work if you got an F2, I wouldn't even bother with an F, but they should be compatible all the way back.

F doesn't have a meter unless it's the Photomic. I have an F2, which is an absolutely LOVELY camera, but the meter is old school and use is clunky, but works once you learn how to use it. The camera itself is extremely nice to use, though definitely all mechanical.

I use an F3 all the damned time. And an FM3A. Prefer the needle meter in the FM3A, prefer the spottier centerweight in the F3. Neither are all mechanical, but they are both all manual and I'm guessing one of my F3s is likely to last as long as I do.

Basically, every camera has its benefits and drawbacks so I can't tell you "get an F2" and be done.

That said, If you're REALLY looking for mechanical with a meter, get an F2 and be done.

I also say keep the 8008. It's not worth much money, but very capable. You can shoot it in manual and the reason they are relatively cheap is that era of Nikons had a problem with the grips going sticky and got a reputation for being plasticky cameras. NOT because they're bad cameras. They're actually pretty awesome and some folks here prefer the F4 of that era over the F6 or F5 that came later. I shot the bejeebus out of one of those, and a 4004, in the early 90s.

Add an F2 if you like, maybe get an AI or AI-s 50 for it, cheap and ridiculously sharp.

 

[Les Sarile]

If you don't need the versatility of interchangeable viewfinders in the F and F2 then perhaps you might consider the Nikkormats like the FT3.

FT3B by Les DMess, on Flickr

Proceed with caution on these two sites . . .
You can read more about - as well as all the other models, in Nikon's excellent site - https://imaging.nikon.com/history/chronicle/
Photography in Malaysia is also another excellent site for Nikons and most all others too - http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/photography.htm

 

[Craig75]

Just stick Yr n8008 in manual mode. It's a great camera.

 

[Les Sarile]

F doesn't have a meter unless it's the Photomic. I have an F2, which is an absolutely LOVELY camera, but the meter is old school and use is clunky, but works once you learn how to use it. The camera itself is extremely nice to use, though definitely all mechanical.
. . . .
That said, If you're REALLY looking for mechanical with a meter, get an F2 and be done.

To be sure, the F2 only has a meter when using a metered viewfinder just like the original F. The F2 as a place for a battery in the body but the plain prism viewfinder does not have a meter.

F2_F2A by Les DMess, on Flickr

 

[George Mann]

Just stick Yr n8008 in manual mode. It's a great camera.

The 8008/90 is a great, tough and reliable series of camera. But ergonomically one of the worse in manual, unless one enjoys the endless, tedious turning of its command wheel.

I use both an F2, and a F90x (with optional J type screen) in order to have the best of both types of camera.

 

[Ozark Wolverine]

WOW! . . . really awesome replies that I need a few days to digest/research . . . I am a retired Engineer . . it's a curse, Thanks to all. I really do not want to be buying older Nikon pre AF lenses . . was hoping to get the best out of what I have , , ,

 

[Ozark Wolverine]

Just to add . . . I guess I was hoping to combine these Nikkor lenses with an older Nikon mechanical camera . . . which looks pretty much like a no show . . . ??

 

[George Mann]

Your lenses will work with Ai spec'd manual bodies. They are however large and heavy enough to be a challenge to use on many of the bodies short of using such accessories as a buttergrip to help balance it.

 

[Cholentpot]

I'm using a meterless F. It's almost perfect. However, if you ignore the meter and just need a body that's simple I'd say look for a Nikkormat.

 

[Les Sarile]

WOW! . . . really awesome replies that I need a few days to digest/research . . . I am a retired Engineer . . it's a curse, Thanks to all. I really do not want to be buying older Nikon pre AF lenses . . was hoping to get the best out of what I have , , ,

Looks like the lenses you listed have an aperture ring which would work on these older bodies so no reason not to try them.

 

[reddesert]

Nikon body-lens compatibility is tabulated here: https://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm
Your AF lenses have an aperture ring with the "AI" projections at the rear, but not the "non-AI" bunny ears prong. You should get a manual focus body that is AI-compatible. That means not an F, and if you get an F2 you'd need one of the AI prisms, which are more expensive.

I would recommend getting any one of the bodies other people have listed like FM, FT3, F2A, etc, and a 50mm manual focus lens to go with it. The 50mm lens isn't very expensive, it's what came on these cameras originally, and it will give you something light to carry around and to compare the feel of manual focus lens vs MF of an AF lens. (Your AF lenses are perfectly usable on an MF camera, they just won't have the same feel.)

 

[albada]

When zoomed near its long end, your AF Nikkor 75-300mm f 4.5-5.6 will be difficult to focus on a MF body because the split-image or microprism will go black unless your eye is perfectly centered on the viewfinder. At 300mm, you will probably give up on the focus aid and just focus on the ground-glass. The problem is that most split-image/microprism screens are designed to handle at most f/5.6, and even that takes care. So I suggest not using a lens any slower than f/4.5. The f/2 50mm lens suggested above will be effortless to focus, and also will let you shoot indoors without flash.

Mark Overton

 

[Don_ih]

KEH gets about $70 for a Excellent Condition n8008s condition body . . . so it is not very highly regarded probably due to its complexity and the fact that Electronic film cameras are difficult to repair..

It doesn't get much money because it isn't "cool". It's devalued in the same way all Canon EOS cameras are, all Pentax and Minolta AF SLRs are. However, it will probably use those lenses to better advantage than any manual focus camera will. All those bulbous, plastic (or plastic-shelled) cameras handle exposure perfectly, their focus is exact (although you have to make sure it's focusing on the right thing), and they tend to have much cleaner viewfinders (free of crud) than manual focus SLRs (because they're newer). The reason to use one camera or the other is really personal preference.
So, if you just want good photos, use that camera. If you want to feel more responsible for exposure and focus, get a manual camera. If you want to be cool, get manual focus lenses, too. Zoom lenses are definitely not "cool", anyway.

 

[jimgalli]

You should get something post 1977 with AI aperture tab that corresponds to your lenses. That only leaves two choices that are completely manual, FT3 which is kind of rare or FM FM2 series. N8008 is a very capable camera, but if someone has made up their mind to shoot film at this point, there is a certain romance of earlier less complicated times involved and the N series cameras aren't what film folk are looking for. That's why value's are low. My personal all time favorite manual focus Nikon is the FE. Also works with your lenses and offers manual aperture and speed selection, but it has an electronic shutter speed control that requires 3V power to take pics. Perfect trade off for me. I just bought an all black FG. Why? Can't really say. 40 year old Nikons are just beautiful little machines.

 

[Bazza D]

I like the Nikon FM. It will use pretty much any Nikon lens that has an aperture ring. That is one of the main reasons I got it. Most of my Nikon lenses are pre Ai. Plus if you are looking for the all mechanical experience it does that well. It is not the heaviest thing but is not light. It feels solid and the operations are smooth. I often wonder if the film advance is broken on my because it feels like it takes no effort. Regardless of what camera you decide on; it sounds like you have already decided you want a mechanical camera (I did the same thing), as someone said before, get a manual focus 50mm. The Nikon 50mm F2 is well regarded and it will be fast compared to lens you have. But almost any Nikon 50mm will be good.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I have a Nikon n8008s my Aunt passed down to me about 7-8 years ago . . . works flawlessly but is VERY complex (and capable) but I prefer simple, mechanical cameras with a light meter. KEH gets about $70 for a Excellent Condition n8008s condition body . . . so it is not very highly regarded probably due to its complexity and the fact that Electronic film cameras are difficult to repair..

I got two Nikon lenses with the camera . . .

1: AF Nikkor 28-85mm f 3.5-4.5
2: AF Nikkor 75-300mm f 4.5-5.6

Are these lenses compatible with the older Nikon bodies??

Lenses are in like new condition . . . shot a roll of Tri X with it today with no issues using both lenses. Hope to process this roll in a week or so (still setting up/building ) my darkroom after a move.

I have settled on a Nikon F or F2 body. If you would recommend another Mechanical Nikon . . . which one and why? Remember . . the ONLY THING I want the battery to do is run the exposure meter.

Thanks

the issue is with he auto-focus function of your lenses; otherwise, your lenses are compatible with all Nikon mechanical bodies AFAIK.

 

[Nitroplait]

. . was hoping to get the best out of what I have , , ,

You have a great camera.
Just because the market don't appreciate the F801s/N8008s doesn't equate that it is a lesser camera. It was the second top tier in Nikons lineup at the time, thus a professional and robust tool.
It is only as complex as you want it to be, and if manual fiddling with focus aperture and shutter speed is your desire, it allows for that. That is what you get on an F or F2 and if you ask me, setting the N8008s to A, S or P is much simpler than manually adjust the settings on a F/F2 for every exposure - and besides the lightmeter on the N8008s is lightyears better.
Just set and forget - you don't have to change settings all the time.

 

[Paul Howell]

I agree that the 8008 is a fine camera, if you want a new body, I would think about a N90S, or N75 or 80, in manual mode, matrix metering, and features if you need or want.

 

[waynecrider]

As others have said, it’s only complex as you wanted to be. I had one and it was easy to use in any mode; Should have kept it, but the allure of so many other cameras caused me to go down the slippery slope and start acquiring too many others. Big mistake.
If you want a nice manual camera I’ll concur with Galli and say get an FE. Love mine.

 

[Huss]

Remember . . the ONLY THING I want the battery to do is run the exposure meter.

Some people just ignore requests! NO BATTERY RELIANCE!!!

I would not recommend a metered F, as at this age the meters are flaky if they even work. But a standard F body is pretty cool. Metered F2s can be flaky too - my F2AS needed to have the meter repaired by Sover Wong as the circular resistor thingy wore out. But the body is full mechanical and frankly nicer than the F - I had several of both, and now only have the F2 series. There is nothing the F does better apart from look cooler!
The other mechanical Nikons are the Nikkormats and the FM series. I had two FT2s, the meters are very limited in EV range compared to modern metered bodies. Even the meters in the F2AS are much more sensitive. And also Nikkormats suffer from jumpy meter needles/erratic readings due to age.
The FM series are pretty solid. Never had a problem w my FM or FM2. My FE2 (electric) on the other hand suffered from shutter timing failure.