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Nikon FM3a vs Leica M7

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FM Nikons are not the only option. An Olympus OM2n might be a better comparison.

A nice Rolleiflex seems to cost about the same or less than a Leica with no glass.

... and has even higher build quality!
 
Why? No idea. I wouldn't pick any of them. I'd pick a Nikon F2.
Could you please briefly explain the reason? My knowledge on Nikon SLRs is pretty basic, largely through internet forums, that seems to suggest FM2n and FM3A are the best of the bunch.

Akiva: Do you wear eyeglasses? I know some people get frustrated after they start wearing those.

Bests,
Ashfaque
 
Prices for an FM3 and a nice Leica M aren't so different, rangefinder lens prices are the shock. A good used AIS Nikkor can be had for £100, a Voigtlander, Zeiss and Leitz would be x3, x6, xsky's the limit for an M-mount equivalent.

For my money Nikkormats are the best camera bargain there is. Built around the same time and (IMO) to a similar quality as my M5, but costing a fraction of the price used. Higher quality I suspect than the FM, FE and subsequent Nikon series, and up there with the F and F2 for build quality.
 
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I have used 2 Leica rangefinder cameras - a 3F and an M3. superb instruments - both; but lacking in the availability of good lenses that are actually affordable. The 3F had a screw Nikon 50/2 but I couldn't afford any alternatives at the time, and the M3, well to blunt, although it came with a F2 Summicron, a 35mm/3.5 Summaron and a 135/4.5 Hektor,the camera was worn out and not reliable. I soon went back to reflex cameras. (Nikon F3).

What I would value now is the lack of weight using a M series camera with lenses from 21mm to 135
 
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Nikon FM3a vs Leica M7

I own and use SLR and rangefinder cameras. I have owned and used one Leica 35mm body and several Nikon 35mm bodies (F, F2, F3, F4, N70, and L35). I have never owned or used a Nikon FM3a SLR or a Leica M7 rangefinder.

As one who prefers manual/mechanical cameras to automatic/electronic cameras, if I had to choose between the Nikon FM3a and the Leica M7, I would select the FM3a because it is not as electronic as the M7 and I have the lenses for the FM3a but not the M7. Plus, the focus ring on the Leica lens rotates in a direction that is opposite to the Nikon lenses that I am used to handling.

If I had to select a Leica rangefinder, I would rather have a Leica M2, M6, or MP because they are mechanical perfection.

If I did not have to select the FM3a, I would rather have a Nikon F2 because it too is mechanical perfection and I need a body that has interchangeable view finders.
 
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Could you please briefly explain the reason? My knowledge on Nikon SLRs is pretty basic, largely through internet forums, that seems to suggest FM2n and FM3A are the best of the bunch.

Akiva: Do you wear eyeglasses? I know some people get frustrated after they start wearing those.

Bests,
Ashfaque

The Nikon F2 was/is a superb camera and if you get a good one they will do almost everything a modern camera will do. They are beautiful to handle, and for a reflex, very quiet in operation.
 
The F, F2, & F3 were pro system cameras, some pros stayed with F2.

The FM series were semi pro but many pros adopted them, the M is manual.

The FE series similar auto aperture priority or manual

There are quirks FM before 3000000 has a manual meter switch after # auto 1st pressure, some can't abite the difference, cause they moved the shutter lock as well.

The FMs are cheap.
 
If you have Nikon SLR and using it, you don't need Leica RF.
Why?
Because yesterday I almost purchased Nikon SLR. Instead I purchased another RF with aperture priority.
I don't need any SLR, my interest and subject in photography are better served with RF. Aperture priority is nice to have, but RF and Leica is more in priority.
 
There was an absolutely gorgeous F2 down the street, all reconditioned, a few weeks ago. They wanted $200 with a token 50mm lens. I was tempted; but somebody else promptly snatched it up. I don't need any more 35mm gear, since it's more a casual fun format for me - nice on
rainy day walks, with the Nikon tucked under the parka. Suspect this coming Saturday will be one of those days. It's been wet. Or lately, I've
been mounting my FM2n body on my big 300 EDIF P67 lens for wildlife shots. Now that is a fun combination!
 
All of the Nikon F series had 100% finders which no other Nikons had.
 
I have a pack of Nikon FGs and a couple of M4s. I don't know what the FM3a offers the photographer that the FG doesn't and the FGs cost $50 each. ...

The FG is an electronic camera with one fully mechanical setting (M90); the FM3a is a hybrid that offers a full range of mechanical shutter speeds as well as the option of electronic operation. The build quality of the FM3a is also thought to be better by some (e.g. MIR) as well as myself.

That said, the FG is a very good Nikon with good options and accessories. At $50 it's a bargain.
 
Do you want to look down the middle of a toilet roll or view what is in and out the shot at the same time?
 
The FG is an electronic camera with one fully mechanical setting (M90); the FM3a is a hybrid that offers a full range of mechanical shutter speeds as well as the option of electronic operation. The build quality of the FM3a is also thought to be better by some (e.g. MIR) as well as myself.

That said, the FG is a very good Nikon with good options and accessories. At $50 it's a bargain.

I think i would also pick a FG over a FM3a.

I used to own a FG, sold it just 3 weeks ago.
 
The FG has a programme even with AI lenses.
An FM can use pre AI lenses, as can the F series cameras.
The FM and F and F2 have nice shutter releases.
 
......but ultimately to blame the system for bad photos? . . . . the real problem is in the mirror.

That's EXACTLY why I use a Rangefinder. No Mirror!:D
 
Anyway, I think a lot of people conflate differences in their toys with personal habits. There are good and bad reasons for any system to work, but ultimately to blame the system for bad photos? . . . . the real problem is in the mirror.

No the mirror is not the problem. The problems are caused by an Operator Assisted Failure aka oaf. The usage is thusly: The oaf did this and then the oaf did that. :laugh::tongue::laugh:
 
How many Nikon FM2s can you buy for the price of a Leica M7 ?
 
How many Nikon FM2s can you buy for the price of a Leica M7 ?

Ultimately, 5, 10, 20 years onwards, the price won't have mattered much. Over that time, what are the photos that will be made or missed? Which camera best suits the photographers style? Also, it's not one being better than the other, but what is best suited to the photography. Out on city streets I'm going to chose the small quick Leica; on a country hike maybe the SLR.
 
Rangefinders show the world outside the frame, which is useful for some types of photographer. With the eyepiece at one end of the camera, the photographer can keep both eyes open. The rangefinder also shows everything in focus, not at the maximum aperture of the lens, which can be vital for composition. For anything wider than 28mm or longer than 90mm, an SLR is the better tool.
 
The F, F2, & F3 were pro system cameras, some pros stayed with F2.

The FM series were semi pro but many pros adopted them, the M is manual.

The FE series similar auto aperture priority or manual

There are quirks FM before 3000000 has a manual meter switch after # auto 1st pressure, some can't abite the difference, cause they moved the shutter lock as well.

The FMs are cheap.

All FM bodies have a manual meter switch. Even the 3xxxxxx serial bodies. Difference is that with the 2xxxxxx serial bodies, you can take photos with the meter turned off, whereas, unless you use something to depress the motor drive shutter release on the baseplate, with the 3xxxxxx serial bodies, the advance lever (and the meter switch) must be in the standoff position, like on an FE or the newer cameras. The timer for the meter was introduced on the FM2 (30 seconds - can be turned off quicker by either rotating shutter speed dial to B or X200 on the original bodies, or B on the FM2n). FE2 and FM3a are 15 seconds, IIRC.

FM3a is more like an FE2 that can be used at the full shutter speed range without batteries, but, as a caveat, you lose 2, 4, and 8 second shutter speeds. Those are only available in "A" mode. Personally, I'd rather have an FE2 with the FM3a generation screens than an actual FM3a. Same thing, but 1/5-1/10 the cost, depending on condition. Also looks nicer without the modern "Nikon" font.

Have a 7353xxx serial FM2n. I'm happy. If I decide to get something rangefinder and it has to be Leica, it'll probably wind up being something LTM or, if I get a bunch of cash, a single-stroke M3 with 50/2. Otherwise, maybe a Nikon S2 or original S3 or SP...

-J
 
...unless you use something to depress the motor drive shutter release on the baseplate, with the 3xxxxxx serial bodies, the advance lever (and the meter switch) must be in the standoff position, like on an FE or the newer cameras.

Have a 7353xxx serial FM2n. I'm happy. If I decide to get something rangefinder and it has to be Leica, it'll probably wind up being something LTM or, if I get a bunch of cash, a single-stroke M3 with 50/2. Otherwise, maybe a Nikon S2 or original S3 or SP...

-J

Thanks I've never considered post 3000000 FM can't abide the shutter inhibit but a base plate pin would be easy.
I to have a FM2n 840xxxx and the shutter inhibit is very difficult, the FM shutter release is way easier.

The Canon VI or P or later are better in every way than a M2, except for the thread mount, the Contax bayonet (of the S series) is horrible.
 
........The Canon VI or P or later are better in every way than a M2,.........

Big difference in the viewfinder. The P uses reflected framelines which, on some cameras, haven’t aged well (faded or flary). Personally, I prefer a camera with projected framelines, like a Leica M.

Jim B.
 
Big difference in the viewfinder. The P uses reflected framelines which, on some cameras, haven’t aged well (faded or flary). Personally, I prefer a camera with projected framelines, like a Leica M.

Jim B.

True but some Ms don't have rangefinder spots either.
You need to inspect before you try.
And the 'or later' Canon 7 has projected frames.
The VI & P 1:1 finders are faster than a M2 in available darkness.
 
Has anyone mentioned zoom lenses? None are available for rangefinders. And rangefinders tend to be easier to focus in poor light (indoors).

That said, I photographed the rehearsal of my church's Christmas play a few weeks ago with a Nikon FM and 50mm lens. No zoom. The bright image due to the f/2 was easy enough to focus in the dim-ish light. Because this was a rehearsal and I was the official photog, I was able to zoom with my feet, including walking on the stage with the action in progress for individual close-ups. It worked out well.

Mark Overton
 
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