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Nikon F6 - what is the going price?

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Eric Rose

Eric Rose

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I have a friend who wants to sell his Minty - Nikon F6 body. I have no idea what they actually go for on the used market these days. ePray seems to have prices all over the place.

What is your experience?

Eric
 
I bought an early serial F6 for $700 from a friend. That's pretty low. I've seen it go for that or maybe a little more with a grip in forums. But it depends on how fast he wants to sell it.
 
~900, could prob squeeze a little more if it has a late serial.
 
Consider looking at SOLD F6's on the auction site. That'll give you a range to work with BIN and auctions.
Then apply Kentucky windage.
 
mweintraub said:
I bought an early serial F6 for $700 from a friend. That's pretty low. I've seen it go for that or maybe a little more with a grip in forums. But it depends on how fast he wants to sell it.
Click to expand...
I am currently in Tokyo on a business trip and saw a couple early serial # in good condition for about $600-700. This is a steal in my opinion :smile: In Europe they go for about €1000-1200 used, 1700 new.
Funny that the price of Nikon gear seems lower in Japan than Europe, whereas Leicas and Hasselblad cost a fortune on the used market compared to the old continent.
 
I can echo the lower price in Japan comment. I had just bought another Nikon F5 body and 35D lens for a steal in Shinjuku. A few days later I saw an F6 that was immaculate for about $800USD equivalent. I prefer the F5....but that was still tempting.
 
KEH is 1100.00 plus for high serial numbers. I just bought one from National Camera high number for 1100.00. Needed to replace my F5.
 
Totally out of topic, I also saw the SP Millenium edition, Serial #0002, new in an unopened box. Price was about $15000, if anyone’s interested :D And no, I didn’t ask the staff to demo it to me :D Just opening that box would probably cut its value by at least 50% I guess.
 
I have a Nikon S2, a little rough but works perfectly, along with its f1.4 50, a 135 and 105. Plus Voigtlander 21 and 35. I'd love to have a SP, but used examples in reasonable condition are more than I care to spend. $15K for something essentially unusable? Not hardly.
 
It also may depend on the dealer. In London there is a Nikon only dealer called Grays of Westminster and allowing for the increased prices in the Capital his prices are about 10-15% higher than outside London. What you do get though is a very good example if you are prepared to pay the extra. I have a F6 which according to the serial number is about halfway in the run and I paid £595 for it 3 years ago. So allowing for the currency exchange rate at today's markets I would expect to pay around $900 or so for a very good example.

One thing I like about the F6 is the counter on the rear door which tells you how many cassettes of film you have had through. Mine currently stands at 361 and some of them were 24 Exp so it has not had a hard life. Not as accurate as a shutter count but I think a more realistic record.
 
BMbikerider said:
One thing I like about the F6 is the counter on the rear door which tells you how many cassettes of film you have had through. Mine currently stands at 361 and some of them were 24 Exp so it has not had a hard life. Not as accurate as a shutter count but I think a more realistic record.
Click to expand...
Could you please develop on this? I tried to research it but did not find much information... thanks!
 
Not hardly, just wanted to try an F6. So now the F5 is a backup. I think I actually like the F5 better. But neither will work with the newer electronic lens.
 
etn said:
Could you please develop on this? I tried to research it but did not find much information... thanks!
Click to expand...

On the back of the F6 is a small window which displays the film speed. Below this window is a small lid that lifts up and there are 4 buttons 1=Menu, 2=ISO, 3=flash settings, and 4=INFO
The menu is for adjusting the camera set-up, shooting menu etc. The ISO is for overiding the DX setting. The flash is self explanatory, rear curtain sync et.c and the INFO button if pressed shows the number of films that have been through the camera and the ISO setting they were exposed at.

In fact I have just seen the number of films mine has had through is not 361 as I said before but is actually 224. I need to rear my glasses more!
 
GWalls said:
Not hardly, just wanted to try an F6. So now the F5 is a backup. I think I actually like the F5 better. But neither will work with the newer electronic lens.
Click to expand...

I just cannot see the F6 being better than the F5 other than size and weight. Neither of those two bother me about the F5 so we'll just see if I can wear one out. I have little desire for the newer magnetically operated lenses so it's no problem for me. I'm sure they're nice but not nice that much better for me to purchase a camera for them.
 
GWalls said:
Not hardly, just wanted to try an F6. So now the F5 is a backup. I think I actually like the F5 better. But neither will work with the newer electronic lens.
Click to expand...

btw, how well does the F5's focusing screen work for manual focusing? Is it too optimized for brightness and AF, or can you easily get focus-pop and see actual dof with fast lenses (f/1.8 and faster).
 
Same here. I "chip" my AI/AIs lenses so I can use the focusing aid in the viewfinder. It is finicky and needs fairly high contrast to be accurate but the screen works well too. I stumbled across Dead Link Removed for using easy to find F3 screens in an F5. Haven't done it yet but it appears easy to accomplish.
 
I did change out the screen on my F5 & F6. I think they are both A screens. Helped some. But I would not bother with it again. I have a number of Zeiss lens that I use and they are a lot brighter which helps me and my old eyes.. the only Nikon glass I use on these camers is a AF 180mm 2.8. Use the Zeiss on my F2as as well.
 
On the F6 the default screen has a very fine surface and sometimes produces moire/interference artifacts, depending on where one focuses.

Something rougher would be ideal, alas there is nothing commercially available that fits exactly. I think i will try to use a B2 screen from an FE2 that is both bright and rough enough. I just have to be careful and glue precisely some plastic sheet around it so that it matches exactly the larger dimensions of the F6 screen.
 
MartinCrabtree said:
Same here. I "chip" my AI/AIs lenses so I can use the focusing aid in the viewfinder..
Click to expand...
I don't think you need to chip the lenses to do this. At least I don't. Chiping lenses is helpful if you have a body that doesn't have the NonCPU capabilities.
 
It allows the use of all modes not just aperture and full manual not to mention full matrix metering. Which I'm rather fond of.
 
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