Nikon F4 or F6

Sirius Glass

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In over 60 years of using 35mm slr cameras I have never felt a the need to change the view finder. The cost versus benefit just does not pay off for most photographers, amateur or professional. In MF the there is a payoff for changing view finders because the stock view finder is a Waist Level Finder and for the Mamiya C330f the PorroFlex was the viewfinder of choice and the Hasselblad one of the 45° or 90° view finders are the view finders of choice with the advantage of built in light meter while eliminating the annoying left right reversal.
 

Huss

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I find the metering in the F4 to be balanced for negative film, while the F6 seems to be more into preserving highlights i.e slide film balanced.
 
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Getting the F6 will not make me forget about the F4.

Maybe not.
But getting the F4 will also not make you forgetting the F6.......
In your original post you have asked for a Nikon SLR with best AF for sports and wildlife. And that is the F6, not the F4. As someone who is using both for years I can ensure you that.

You have written that you have dreamed about having an F4 as a kid. And that you find it looks cool. Then get one! It is a no brainer currently because they are so cheap.
And because they are so cheap it is maybe also possible for you to have both, F4 and F6.

Lenses then..? Id like a midrange zoom to go with it. I suspect the 35-70mm 2.8 afd is a bit big. But what about the 35-105mm 3.5-4.5 afd? Or the 35-70mm 3.3-4.5 af?

If you need a compact, light, versatile, lower cost and quite well performing midrange zoom the AF-D 3.5-4.5/28-105 can be recommended.

Best regards,
Henning
 
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Yes.
In my post I was of course referring to 35mm cameras. In medium format the situation is different.

Best regards,
Henning
 

Arthurwg

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If it's about getting one or the other, I suggest you get both. Why not? It's only money, and photography is cheaper than yachting.

These days I use the 24mm AF-D and the 85 mm F1.4 with my F6, but I'm now thinking about the 80-200mm AF-D that I. used with great success on the F4 and might replace it. Yes, I'd rather have the 70-200 VR lens but that costs $2400.00 new at the moment.
 

MWL

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Sure, whatever you say.
 

CMoore

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That is a fabulous shot of the Alfa mechanics.
I wonder who made their sign.......that thing is awesome.!
 

millardmt

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The elephant in the room is the propensity for the F3's, F4's & F5's LCD's to bleed. Why has no one addressed that? It's a show stopper.

Marc
 

CMoore

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The elephant in the room is the propensity for the F3's, F4's & F5's LCD's to bleed. Why has no one addressed that? It's a show stopper.

Marc
I know nothing about the Science/Longevity of LCD Screens.
Even on an F5, if it is nor problematic circa 2022, is it likely it ever will be.?
 

Sirius Glass

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The elephant in the room is the propensity for the F3's, F4's & F5's LCD's to bleed. Why has no one addressed that? It's a show stopper.

Marc

This is thoroughly address by the plethora of the absence of discussion of to F3s and F4s. The OP will not accept a camera with LCD bleed. Instead the OP will look at a newer better copy or buy the F100 or F6 and get a LCD with signs of bleeding.
 

BMbikerider

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At risk of starting a 'which is best' storm, I have for most of my photographic time always used a SLR, mostly 35mm but when I need to do something which needs that extra'edge' I fall back on 120 both twin lens and single lens reflexes. They slow you down, make you think and the quality is almost always better.

When I achieved my distinction of A.R.P.S with the Royal Photographic Society in 1993 all of my panel of images in B&W were made with either a Pentacon 6 SLR with a waist level viewfinder or a Minolta Autocord TLR. It made my task so much easier. Even if I say so myself the technical quality was a great help in allowing me to succeed.

The use of a seperate meter also helped and the reversal of view I didn't find a problem. I simply formed the composition as I saw it and if it didn't work when I went to print the negative I just reversed the negative to suit.
 
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Henning, I see you still haven't gathered enough flat spots on your head. Trying to counter nonsense with facts. Ha! Good luck.
@Henning Serger thank for your factual posts! Many of us here appreciate your contributions.

Thanks, Sal and Chris!

@OP:
If you are going for an F4, you should look for a later produced one, with a serial number above 400,000. Lots of internal improvements (it is said a 3-digit number) and "bug-fixing" were implemented in the F4 over the production years. And that was finished after 400,000 units were produced, no more refinements after that.
I have also such a late unit and so far - knock on wood - it works flawlessly.

Best regards,
Henning
 

MWL

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That is incorrect. There is no Nikon F4 with a serial number above 261xxxx. There are no known F4 cameras with a serial number starting with 262xxxx.

All of the revisions, about 10 known ones, were done by about serial number 2500765, but just to be certain, stick with about 2501000 and up just to be safe.

Having said that, buyers should be careful, as some units are mixed and matched. Even if a body has a later serial number, you should still look for the pin hole on the flash mount of the DP-20 and Ni-Cd instead of KR-AA marked on the MB-21, if buying an F4s. Also, check for LCD bleeds on the lower LCD, but also the upper one. Bleeds generally get worse, but I have seen a report of one bleed disappear completely with a change of weather.
 
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That is incorrect. There is no Nikon F4 with a serial number above 261xxxx. There are no known F4 cameras with a serial number starting with 262xxxx.

Well, I was of course referring to the real production numbers: You have to "delete" the first code number (2), and then you have the real production number.

All of the revisions, about 10 known ones, were done by about serial number 2500765, but just to be certain, stick with about 2501000 and up just to be safe.

My sources say otherwise, including the Nikon literature (Peterson; Stafford/Hillebrand/Hauschild). Both concerning the number of modifications / improvements, and the serial numbers.

Best regards,
Henning
 

MWL

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"Stop making excuses."
It isn't an excuse at all, as the coded number does not give you the real number of units produced in case of the F4 (it is e.g. different with the F6, as the F6 numbers are not coded).
I am interested in the real produced numbers, and it is also the critical point here concerning the modifications.

"The F4 numbers start at 2100000, so you'd be out by 100 000 if you did that."
No, due to the Nikon Compendium by Stafford, Hillebrand and Hauschild the serial numbers started with 2000201. And it is confirmed by Peterson in his book that the numbers definitely started lower / under 2100000, as he wrotes that implementing of the first modifications started with 2100000 onwards.

"I have several F4 bodies starting at 25048xx going through 26123xx, and all have the modifications. Show me where there are serial numbers above the 261xxxx, or unmodified bodies earlier than 250xxxx with all the upgrades."
???
Of course your F4s with these numbers have all the upgrades, that is what I have written. Implementation of modifications was finished most probably after 2400000 or latest at 4500000 (due to one source).

Best regards,
Henning
 

MWL

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You told the OP to look for a SERIAL NUMBER above 400000. They aren't going to find one, because they don't exist.

Also, according to the latest information (from the actual owner, I believe) F4 with SERIAL NUMBER 2500764 does not have all the modifications, so SERIAL NUMBERS below that probably don't either. Therefore, cameras with SERIAL NUMBERS between 2400000 and 2500000 are probably not a good bet if you want all the latest modifications. Best to stick with a few above that number at least.

I have also seen mixed and matched units with early SERIAL NUMBERS but with later MB-20s, MB-23s and DP-20s attached, and vice versa, which were unlikely made like that by Nikon, and more likely done by unscrupulous sellers, or where bleeding LCDs necessitated a new viewfinder, or damage to the grip, either externally or internally from leaking batteries, required a new grip.
 
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Also, according to the latest information (from the actual owner, I believe) F4 with SERIAL NUMBER 2500764 does not have all the modifications, so SERIAL NUMBERS below that probably don't either.

I doubt that, as my industry sources have been absolutely reliable so far. More likely that the owner isn't aware of all modifications, of which lots were internal and cannot be seen from the outside.

Best regards,
Henning
 

MWL

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I doubt that, as my industry sources have been absolutely reliable so far. More likely that the owner isn't aware of all modifications, of which lots were internal and cannot be seen from the outside.

Best regards,
Henning

The actual owner probably sn't blind, and nor does he have x-ray vision, which means that he is only referring to the visible external upgrades, which he apparently can see he doesn't have, such as the finder release button, painted markings and protrusion of some buttons. Those are all on the body, which would rule out the finder or grips being changed.
 
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Well, please don't take it personal, but as my industry sources have been reliable so far over years, I trust them more than statements from anonymous people on the internet. That does not mean that my sources generally can't be wrong, but so far they have not given me any reason to doubt them.
Back to the original topic now........

Best regards,
Henning
 

Craig75

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Op was probably innocently thinking - just get a 35mm slr to complement my baller rangefinder and medium format cameras. Just a nice nikon slr.. that won't be like the the hellish vortex of going leica shopping... just a nice nikon slr to take restful photos of animals and the occasional game of handball..
 

Arthurwg

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Photography, and cameras, can drive you crazy.
 
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