Nikon F3/T: LCD replaced

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Andreas Thaler

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A project that has occupied me for years without being able to tackle it - for lack of a replacement display and know-how.

Now it's implemented 😀

With my most beautiful F3/T (never used before), I had to watch the LCD display in the viewfinder slowly but steadily disappear.

At first, only individual digits failed - eg. the plus sign was no longer displayed in the event of overexposure.

Well, I could get by with that, although not ideally.

But then all the digits started to fade.

Today I saw that whole digits are no longer displayed completely.

This nice F3/T could therefore only be used with an external exposure meter or for the closet.

Since I had meanwhile collected three F3 for parts that still had their Displays installed, I dared to intervene today.


Replacing the LCD

My donor F3 came to me already partially looted.

Since, among other things, the shutter release was missing, I could not test whether her LCD was still intact.

The electronics were already open, so I didn't want to insert a battery. Who knows what the previous owner did to this F3 …

Since the left housing cap was already removed, I only had to loosen four screws to remove the LCD unit, which was then only attached to the flexible circuit board.

Here is the unit with the bottom cover already removed:

F3:T_1.jpg



In detail - the famous red button for illuminating the LCD on the far left.

On the right the still covered LCD block with the light inlet to the outside for the display:


F3:T_2.jpg



After removing the cover plate, the LCD block can be seen:

F3:T_3.jpg



The LCD block can be easily pulled out.

Below the contact strips located on the board:

F3:T_4.jpg



The donor part for my F3/T.

Above the two rows of contacts on the LCD block two strips of soft, transparent plastic are placed:

F3:T_5.jpg



The piezoelectric element (below) with contact plate for the viewfinder illumination:

F3:T_6.jpg



The contact plate comes back into place.

Simply insert, no further attachment:

F3:T_7.jpg



The arrow shows the position of the small plate between the red push button and the gray piezoelectric element:

F3:T_8.jpg



The bottom cover for the LCD unit and the LCD block:

F3:T_9.jpg



The donor in the front, the recipient in the back:

F3:T_10.jpg


I worked my way to the left case cap on the F3/T to be able to pull out the LCD assembly with the flexible circuit board a bit.

These three lightning contact shoe cables must be unsoldered:

F3:T_11.jpg



The donor LCD is installed in the F3/T and the left housing cap, the override with the flash contact shoe as well as the rewind crank are installed.

Before installing the LCD, I cleaned the two rows of contacts on the flex circuit board with isopropyl alcohol.

The anxious moment - was the transplant successful?

Yes!

A high-contrast LCD display now shows all digits again!

F3:T_12.jpg



My resurrectedF3/T, almost written off, is back in full force :smile:

F3:T_13.jpg



My mobile workshop:

F3:T_14.jpg



The defective LCD with obvious signs of decay on the contact rows:

F3:T_15.jpg
 

Cholentpot

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Wow. That's some neat work. I'm always a little apprehensive about my LCD going. Good to see someone who figured it out.
 
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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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I wonder if a broken LCD can be fixed.

This one seems to suffer from a kind of dissolving contact pads what causes the brownish discoloration. Chances to repair this might be low.

Anyway I have another spare LCD block which looks good. It is broken down in its component parts consisting of the display, two conductive rubber stripes, another rubber stripe, a cover plate, the prism for the illumination of the LCD and screws.

As I own several F3 I will try to replace with this as soon as a LCD goes bad.
 
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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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The complete electronic circuit for the Nikon F3 as a factory new spare part:

FPC.JPG



The black unit on the left side contains the LCD block, the tiny bulb for LCD illumination triggered by the infamous little red button and the red flash-ready LED mirrored into the viewfinder.

The good news is that the LCD block is an independent part and can be replaced.

For the swap the LCD block has just to be pulled out after some screws have been released.

The left top cover on the F3 should be removed first to free the part of the flexible print circuit (FPC) where the unit is mounted.
 
Last edited:
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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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Removing the left top cover on the F3

Please note that the rewind crank on this F3 is already off.

The crank can be released easily turning it counterclockwise while blocking the film rewind fork in the film cartridge chamber with a screwdriver.

A95725D6-67E4-491B-84A4-0ABE4DB8EEE9.jpeg


5E7EA28D-1E9F-4B96-A128-274498BC1310.jpeg



After loosening the snap ring, the cover plate on the flash contact shoe can be removed.

The silver sleeve falls out of the film cartridge chamber.

0A11828E-CAD6-4E4C-B582-9841463E4D7A.jpeg



Detailed view after having removed the cover plate.

141A3437-A8F1-49DC-B381-2E56637A0AE7.jpeg



The locking mechanism of the rewind crank must be removed so that the two screws underneath for the flash contact shoe can be loosened.

097E65CF-AD91-4DA1-B3D1-B312E4C63A11.jpeg



The parts dismantled so far.

939394CA-D823-4BED-BC6F-95387E6B2D32.jpeg



The lightning contact shoe is now only held by three cables which I desoldered.

A4BA37BF-3371-46F3-9B18-D82A7FB4659B.jpeg


F079DBE5-53F3-4ECA-ADA0-403AF7B24215.jpeg



The flash contact shoe can now be removed.

24FBC5C9-BD87-40B5-9DB8-A45634575315.jpeg



Once loosened, the left top cover can be pulled off with a bit of careful wiggling.

B3E2D8C4-EFD2-4378-AA31-D335D4371051.jpeg



Completed

F7A56345-87E2-4031-A068-30DF5863800A.jpeg



These two screws hold the FCP.

A99166A1-BEC5-4AFD-937C-008BA5E703A2.jpeg



After releasing the delicate FCP the unit is conveniently accessible.

F3:T_1.jpg
 
Last edited:

Mick Fagan

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Andreas, very interesting, thanks very much for your detailed pictures and method of getting there.

One thing that had me puzzled for a while, was your usage of "snap ring", until I realised in this part of the English speaking world, we call it a "circlip".

My 38 year old F3 LCD is still working, but it is starting to get a bit dodgy; one never knows if I will need to replace it; or would replace the LCD.
 
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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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Mick thanks again for correcting my poor English!

Technical terms have to be clear.

Anyway in both languages - German and English - a circlip (Sicherungsring) can be a tiny beast flying accross the room or reluctant against any efforts to mount/dismount it 😄
 

MattKing

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One thing that had me puzzled for a while, was your usage of "snap ring", until I realised in this part of the English speaking world, we call it a "circlip".

Mick thanks again for correcting my poor English!
I don't think it was poor English, I think it just wasn't Australian English! :smile:
I believe they are also referred to as snap rings here in Canada.
 

ic-racer

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A project that has occupied me for years without being able to tackle it - for lack of a replacement display and know-how.

Now it's implemented 😀

With my most beautiful F3/T (never used before), I had to watch the LCD display in the viewfinder slowly but steadily disappear.

At first, only individual digits failed - eg. the plus sign was no longer displayed in the event of overexposure.

Well, I could get by with that, although not ideally.

But then all the digits started to fade.

Today I saw that whole digits are no longer displayed completely.

This nice F3/T could therefore only be used with an external exposure meter or for the closet.

Since I had meanwhile collected three F3 for parts that still had their Displays installed, I dared to intervene today.


Replacing the LCD

My donor F3 came to me already partially looted.

Since, among other things, the shutter release was missing, I could not test whether her LCD was still intact.

The electronics were already open, so I didn't want to insert a battery. Who knows what the previous owner did to this F3 …

Since the left housing cap was already removed, I only had to loosen four screws to remove the LCD unit, which was then only attached to the flexible circuit board.

Here is the unit with the bottom cover already removed:

View attachment 330982


In detail - the famous red button for illuminating the LCD on the far left.

On the right the still covered LCD block with the light inlet to the outside for the display:


View attachment 330984


After removing the cover plate, the LCD block can be seen:

View attachment 330985


The LCD block can be easily pulled out.

Below the contact strips located on the board:

View attachment 330986


The donor part for my F3/T.

Above the two rows of contacts on the LCD block two strips of soft, transparent plastic are placed:

View attachment 330987


The piezoelectric element (below) with contact plate for the viewfinder illumination:

View attachment 330988


The contact plate comes back into place.

Simply insert, no further attachment:

View attachment 330989


The arrow shows the position of the small plate between the red push button and the gray piezoelectric element:

View attachment 330990


The bottom cover for the LCD unit and the LCD block:

View attachment 330992


The donor in the front, the recipient in the back:

View attachment 330993

I worked my way to the left case cap on the F3/T to be able to pull out the LCD assembly with the flexible circuit board a bit.

These three lightning contact shoe cables must be unsoldered:

View attachment 330994


The donor LCD is installed in the F3/T and the left housing cap, the override with the flash contact shoe as well as the rewind crank are installed.

Before installing the LCD, I cleaned the two rows of contacts on the flex circuit board with isopropyl alcohol.

The anxious moment - was the transplant successful?

Yes!

A high-contrast LCD display now shows all digits again!

View attachment 330995


My resurrectedF3/T, almost written off, is back in full force :smile:

View attachment 330996


My mobile workshop:

View attachment 330997


The defective LCD with obvious signs of decay on the contact rows:

View attachment 330998

Can this be rejuvenated by cleaning the contacts?

Fantastic thread by the way!
 
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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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Can this be rejuvenated by cleaning the contacts?

Fantastic thread by the way!

Thanks 🙂

I will investigate this.

As long as there is no visible decay cleaning the rubber stripes and contact pads on the board with isopropyl alcohol might help.

Anyway the whole LCD block is very delicate.

But I will see what can be done - if.
 

Helge

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Is it really necessary to disassemble that much to pull out the LCD?
Seems it would enough to get the two screws out that holds the cover over the mirror box, and then you can access the LCD well enough?

Anyway, the first thing I’d try would be to slide out the LCD clean the contacts and reinsert it.
 
Last edited:
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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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Is it really necessary to disassemble that much to pull out the LCD?
Seem it would enoug to get the two screws out that holds the cover over the mirror box, and then you can access the LCD well enough?

Anyway, the first thing I’d try would be to slide out the LCD clean the contacts and reinsert it.

To access the cover plate on the LCD block the unit has to be removed (three screws on top).

The plate held by the two screws below the unit is trapped.

Anyway if you do not dismount the left top case you have no clearance which might cause stress to the delicate FCP:

Add.jpg


Just give it a trial and post your results 👍
 
Last edited:

Les Sarile

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A project that has occupied me for years without being able to tackle it - for lack of a replacement display and know-how.

Now it's implemented 😀

With my most beautiful F3/T (never used before), I had to watch the LCD display in the viewfinder slowly but steadily disappear.

At first, only individual digits failed - eg. the plus sign was no longer displayed in the event of overexposure.

Well, I could get by with that, although not ideally.

But then all the digits started to fade.

Today I saw that whole digits are no longer displayed completely.

This nice F3/T could therefore only be used with an external exposure meter or for the closet.

Since I had meanwhile collected three F3 for parts that still had their Displays installed, I dared to intervene today.


Replacing the LCD

My donor F3 came to me already partially looted.

Since, among other things, the shutter release was missing, I could not test whether her LCD was still intact.

The electronics were already open, so I didn't want to insert a battery. Who knows what the previous owner did to this F3 …

Since the left housing cap was already removed, I only had to loosen four screws to remove the LCD unit, which was then only attached to the flexible circuit board.

Here is the unit with the bottom cover already removed:

View attachment 330982


In detail - the famous red button for illuminating the LCD on the far left.

On the right the still covered LCD block with the light inlet to the outside for the display:


View attachment 330984


After removing the cover plate, the LCD block can be seen:

View attachment 330985


The LCD block can be easily pulled out.

Below the contact strips located on the board:

View attachment 330986


The donor part for my F3/T.

Above the two rows of contacts on the LCD block two strips of soft, transparent plastic are placed:

View attachment 330987


The piezoelectric element (below) with contact plate for the viewfinder illumination:

View attachment 330988


The contact plate comes back into place.

Simply insert, no further attachment:

View attachment 330989


The arrow shows the position of the small plate between the red push button and the gray piezoelectric element:

View attachment 330990


The bottom cover for the LCD unit and the LCD block:

View attachment 330992


The donor in the front, the recipient in the back:

View attachment 330993

I worked my way to the left case cap on the F3/T to be able to pull out the LCD assembly with the flexible circuit board a bit.

These three lightning contact shoe cables must be unsoldered:

View attachment 330994


The donor LCD is installed in the F3/T and the left housing cap, the override with the flash contact shoe as well as the rewind crank are installed.

Before installing the LCD, I cleaned the two rows of contacts on the flex circuit board with isopropyl alcohol.

The anxious moment - was the transplant successful?

Yes!

A high-contrast LCD display now shows all digits again!

View attachment 330995


My resurrectedF3/T, almost written off, is back in full force :smile:

View attachment 330996


My mobile workshop:

View attachment 330997


The defective LCD with obvious signs of decay on the contact rows:

View attachment 330998

Excellent and very generous to share this! Thanks!
 

Alexander K

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Thanks Andreas, this is an important topic. This little display on my F3 is getting (I think) dimmer year after year. Although I rarely take it out of the closet, this camera has served me for many years and I have to take care of it. I will look for a donor camera and prepare for a replacement if necessary.
 
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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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It might help to clean the contacts between the circuit board and the LCD.

I also have an F3 whose LCD is currently fading. A replacement is available, although F3 as spare parts suppliers aren't easy to find (or affordable).
 

mshchem

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I have a F3 "Press" body LCD is still reasonable, but definitely dimmer than my other bodies. What a great modern camera. I bought one new in 1980-83?

Thanks for sharing this important information and your work!! 😊
 
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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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A second post on the topic:


While I couldn't resolve the cause of the error by replacing the LCD, it shows the replacement process.

If individual digits disappear, it could be due to corroded contacts on the LCD; see the other post.
 
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