Nikon F3 or FE2 -- which would you choose?

[Russ - SVP]

Just received the results from the first roll through the new F3. All looks good.

 

[Russ - SVP]

 

[dmtnkl]

I use both. I think i use the FE2 more, but i like both equally. Off the top of my head:

F3
- very durable
- very smooth operation
- more convenient AE lock button
- large selection of screens and viewfinders
- 100% coverage viewfinders
- 1/2000 top speed
- 1/80 mechanical speed (no battery mode)
- meter at the bottom of the body, unaffected by focusing screen and viewfinder changes
- meter covers only part of the scene through a secondary mirror, resulting in quite reliable 'fat spot' readings

FE2
- lighter but equally durable
- somewhat akward AE lock lever, but you can get used to it
- reasonable number of focusing screens (shared with FM/FE, FM2 and FM3A)
- fixed viewfinder, 93% coverage (closer to what is visible through mounted slides)
- viewfinder feels larger
- 1/4000 top speed
- 1/250 mechanical speed (no battery mode)
- 60/40 meter covering the entire scene
- focusing screen changes require exposure compensation as they affect the meter

 

[Russ - SVP]

I use both. I think i use the FE2 more, but i like both equally. Off the top of my head:

F3
- very durable
- very smooth operation
- more convenient AE lock button
- large selection of screens and viewfinders
- 100% coverage viewfinders
- 1/2000 top speed
- 1/80 mechanical speed (no battery mode)
- meter at the bottom of the body, unaffected by focusing screen and viewfinder changes
- meter covers only part of the scene through a secondary mirror, resulting in quite reliable 'fat spot' readings

FE2
- lighter but equally durable
- somewhat akward AE lock lever, but you can get used to it
- reasonable number of focusing screens (shared with FM/FE, FM2 and FM3A)
- fixed viewfinder, 93% coverage (closer to what is visible through mounted slides)
- viewfinder feels larger
- 1/4000 top speed
- 1/250 mechanical speed (no battery mode)
- 60/40 meter covering the entire scene
- focusing screen changes require exposure compensation as they affect the meter

And, the FE-2 supports TTL flash metering, and a much higher flash sync speed (1/250). Those properties can be very important in some conditions.

 

[dmtnkl]

probably but i never use flash, so it did not occur to me

 

[cooltouch]

The F3 also supports TTL flash when using the SB-16 with the F3 foot. Kind of limiting, I know. The slow flash sync is a bigger limiting factor though.

 

[Russ - SVP]

The slow flash sync is the only reason I avoided the F3 for so long. I have the SB-16 with the correct adapter.

 

[Mick Fagan]

At one stage I had the SB-16 with the adaptors for the FE2 and F3, if the SB-16 hadn't chewed batteries at a high rate, then I may have kept it. Instead I went the Metz 32 route with the hammerhead adaptor and TTL for both the FE2 and F3, works a treat.

For travelling with a flash and the F3, I use my SB-12, folds up nice and small and works quite well when using my 55 f/2.8 Micro Nikkor with the flash unit folded over the prism for direct in line flash.

Mick.

 

[Russ - SVP]

At one stage I had the SB-16 with the adaptors for the FE2 and F3, if the SB-16 hadn't chewed batteries at a high rate, then I may have kept it. Instead I went the Metz 32 route with the hammerhead adaptor and TTL for both the FE2 and F3, works a treat.

For travelling with a flash and the F3, I use my SB-12, folds up nice and small and works quite well when using my 55 f/2.8 Micro Nikkor with the flash unit folded over the prism for direct in line flash.

Mick.

 

[Russ - SVP]

Sounds good. I use my SB-600 & 800 with my FE-2. Works great.

 

[Russ - SVP]

At one stage I had the SB-16 with the adaptors for the FE2 and F3, if the SB-16 hadn't chewed batteries at a high rate, then I may have kept it. Instead I went the Metz 32 route with the hammerhead adaptor and TTL for both the FE2 and F3, works a treat.

For travelling with a flash and the F3, I use my SB-12, folds up nice and small and works quite well when using my 55 f/2.8 Micro Nikkor with the flash unit folded over the prism for direct in line flash.

Mick.

Thanks. I just purchased the SN-12

 

[cooltouch]

Never heard of an SN-12. I just googled it and came up with butkis. What is it?

 

[Russ - SVP]

Never heard of an SN-12. I just googled it and came up with butkis. What is it?

Sorry, that was a typo. I meant to say, the SB-12 flash unit.

Butkis

 

[Russ - SVP]

I have been using the FE-2 forever. I am somewhat new to the F-3. I have noticed a few differences between the two. Especially with their respective motor drives attached. I will post these observations very soon.

Did I mention earlier that I broke my cardinal rule, and screwed up on a paying assignment with my new F3?

 

[Mick Fagan]

The FE2 basically has a motor winder, the MD-12, although it was officially called a motor drive. The F3 has a motor drive; it drives the camera supplying all the electricity need to operate the whole shebang..

With the MD4 on the F3, you can throw out the camera batteries/battery; the whole thing runs from the drive.

You can operate at a fixed exposure rate per second, you can run a 250 frame back, called an MF-4. I have used one of these, awesome bit of stuff. Used it for school photography where one was taking a picture of every student, wasn't mine to keep.

With the MD4 attached, the MF18 data back is a very good combination, I use this set-up when doing big sessions and get the time imprinted between frames.

If you are still running your F3 with the MD-4 attached but without batteries, I would suggest you fill it up with batteries and use the camera with the MD-4 doing its stuff. Completely changes the F3.

With an F3/MDF-4 combination and an 18mm lens attached, you can close the viewfinder window and shoot instinctively with either the camera hanging around your neck at a party, or just use it instinctively pointing the camera wherever and hitting the shutter button; works rather well with a 24mm too, but I wouldn't use anything longer that way.

Mick.

 

[johnha]

I can't really help as I'm a Pentax shooter, haven't used either and not familiar with the line-up, however having read various posts about the F3 being smoother, I'd go for that. I shoot a Pentax LX, being a pro spec body makes everything nicer (smoother, more positive controls, more versatile, more robust). The whole shooting experience is just so much more refined and pleasant.

 

[cooltouch]

The FE2 basically has a motor winder, the MD-12, although it was officially called a motor drive.

Hang on a sec. While I agree completely with you regarding the MD-4, a truly excellent no-fuss motordrive, I think it is a reach calling the MD-12 a winder. Almost by definition a winder powers film transport at a rather leisurely 2 fps. All winders I'm familiar with work no faster than this. Whereas the MD-12 advances film at a rate of 3.5 fps. The MD-4 manages only 4 fps when powered with "AA" batteries, which is close enough that I'd call it a draw between the two.

I've used the MD-12 for many years with FEs and FE2s and I've always appreciated its compactness, ergonomics -- and plenty of speed when I needed it. But then, I'm usually not one who holds down the shutter button anyway. I prefer to use the motor to advance frames so I don't have to remove my eye from the finder.

 

[Russ - SVP]

I have found the MD-12 on the FE or FE-2 to be much more manageable and her friendly than the M-4 mounted on the F3. I say this because I use the two different motor drives for added grip and support with heavier lenses. I prefer not to actually turn them on. I like to use the cameras shutter release, not that on the motor drive. Because of the design of the MD-4, it is a difficult reach to the F3’s shutter release so I am almost forced to engage and use the shutter release on the MD-4. It sure makes the camera quite a bit louder. A bit odd when I am out street shooting. I’ll adjust.

 

[Les Sarile]

View attachment 209593 I have found the MD-12 on the FE or FE-2 to be much more manageable and her friendly than the M-4 mounted on the F3.

Especially since there are no body caps to remove or reinstall when using it.

I suppose motor drives in the manual focus era come in two types - one with a handle and one without. I just don't like the aesthetics of the Olympus system.

The X-700+motor drive+multi function back is my most advanced system since it is a full intervalometer while even the EOS-1V requires an external timer controller.