• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Nikon F3 Lens Recomendations

E. von Hoegh said:
I haven't had very good results with MC into the sun either. Sometimes, though, you can work it into the picture.
Click to expand...

I've been spoiled with modern coated lenses and I still catch myself ruining photos with vintage lenses because of backlight. Some of them just can't handle it.
 
Sometimes vintage lenses and backlights work out. At least I like this shot!

tex_rabinovich by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

tex_2 by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Did not do many concerts, my brother asked me to shoot one for a friend of his.
Nikon F2a, 105/2.5 Factory-Ai'd, Kodacolor-400. When it first came out, ~1980.

There are so many really good lenses for the Nikon F3- where to start? More like where to end. The 105/2.5 is a must-have. I recently added a 24/2 Ais- very impressed with it. The Nikkor-NC 24/2.8 is cheap, a must-have. The 35/2 Nikkor-O was for a long time going for more on the used market than the multicoated version. It was a favorite among wedding photographers.
 
Thanks so much for all the info so far. Still processing all of it! ha! Love those concert shots Brian.
Most people recommend going through KEH or ebay usually better? other resources?
 
I researched lenses for several months when I bought my F3T. Ended up with AiS 28mm f2, 50mm f1.2, 105mm f2.5. Excellent lenses. I do love the 50mm f1.2. All my lenses (and F3T) came from ebay. Good deals for the patient.

Kent in SD
 
My standard "walk-about" lens was the 43-86, which I recently replaced with a 35-105. The 35-105 expands the reach of the lens on both ends to make a more useful GP lens. I really like the flexibility of the mid-range zoom for a GP lens.
My 3-lens kit was a 24/f2.8 + 43-86/f3.5 + 80-200/f4.5.
Today I would carry essentially the same kit; 24 + 35-105 + 80-200/4.5 (or 180/2.8 or 200/4)
Of course the slower lenses means you are more constrained when the light level goes down. Low light calls for a different lens kit.
 
ac12 said:
My standard "walk-about" lens was the 43-86,
Click to expand...
Isn’t this the lens which has the reputation of being Nikon’s worst lens ever, and which incidentally was pictured on the Df marketing material?
 
etn said:
Isn’t this the lens which has the reputation of being Nikon’s worst lens ever, and which incidentally was pictured on the Df marketing material?
Click to expand...
There are Four different versions of this lens worth mentioning:
1) Single-Coated 9-element;
2) Multi-Coated "Zoom-Nikkor-C" 9 element;
3) 11-element pre-Ai
4) 11 element Ai

The 11 element version is sharper, somewhat less distortion. The 9-element multicoated is sharp-enough. The single-coated version- less transmission, more flare. 60mm is the sweet spot for all of them.

Zoom-Nikkor-C on the Nikon Ftn

meadowlark17a by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Ai version on the Df- at the widest end. Don't use it for Architecture! Use it at 86mm to make someone look thinner.

DSC_1093 by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

And the SAME lens on the Nikon F2a, circa 1980. On Kodachrome 25. The world weeps.

water_fall_f2a_4386a by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Funny Story: This shot is hand-held at 1-second. While making it, two other "photographers" we're yelling at me from the other side of the creek "You can't make that shot! You'll get too much flare!". I Yelled back- "This is a NIKON LENS!" They didn't even try to get a shot like this.

I've been paying $25 for them off Ebay- compared with ~$200 that I paid for mine in 1978.
 
Last edited:
Wow great shots, in particular #3. The distortion on #2 is indeed quite... how can I say... prominent. Thanks for sharing!
 

So you're saying the 35-105 is not all that bad?
 
The 35~105/3.5~4.5 is a good lens, I have it as well. I also have the 36~72/3.5 Series E. For the F2a- always preferred the constant aperture 43~86/3.5. I also picked up a Kiron 35~135/3.5~4.5. I should do some comparisons.
For the F3- having a variable aperture zoom is not as difficult for use on Automatic. For a manual camera- not as easy.

But... the 43~86/3.5 is the first really popular zoom lens for 35mm cameras. The 36~82/2.8 Zoomar may have been the first, but the 43~86/3.5 was affordable and compact. One of Nikon's most popular lenses ever. At $25 these days, what do you have to lose? A Pizza with 2 toppings and a coke?

Panatomic-X, Nikon F, Circa 1978 by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Zoom-Nikkor 43~86/3.5, Ai version, Nikon F Photomic "Bullseye", Panatomic-X in Microdol. I kept notes in the 70s.
 
etn said:
Isn’t this the lens which has the reputation of being Nikon’s worst lens ever, and which incidentally was pictured on the Df marketing material?
Click to expand...

Maybe so, but it worked just fine, for me.
The 1-ring push/pull zoom/focus ring was a joy to use. After that, I hated using any manual focus zoom lens that used 2 rings, as it was just too clumber-some to switch between focus and zoom rings.
For me, it's only negative was that it was a SLOW lens, compared to the 50/1.4 normal lens. 2-1/2 stops slower !!! That really hurt when shooting basketball in the gym. Tri-X pushed to 1600+ was not very good. In LOW light, FAST glass rules.

Interestingly the version 1 lens is a lens that I won't sell, because when I WANT flare, that is the lens that I use.
 
Easy way to tell the 9-element form the later 11-element: lettering is on the inside of the filter ring:
nikkor43_86_early by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

This is a "Version 1", single-coated, 9-element.

The V2 lens will have a "Zoom-Nikkor-C" in the name.

(The blue dots on the rim of this one is to remind me where the set screws are when re-assembling. I CLA'd it before the shot)
 
My basic Nikon primes kit is a 24mm f/2.8 AIs, 35mm OC f/2 Ai'd by Nikon, 50mm f/1.4 AI, and 105mm f/2.5 late pre-AI, AI'd by Nikon. If/when I need to add to this list, I employ my Tamrons: SP 17mm f/3.5, SP 90mm f/2.5 Macro, and SP 300mm f/2.8 LDIF. I have several zooms, including a Nikon 80-200mm f/4.5, that will fill in the gaps between 50-100mm to 300mm and beyond. Besides the Nikon 80-200, they include the Tamron SP 60-300, SP 70-210, SP 200-500, and Tokina 100-300 SD and 150-500 SD. The Tamron 200-500 and Tokina 100-300 are exceptionally sharp lenses and rival primes in their resolution capabilities.
 
With my F3 I use the 28/2 AIS, 50/1.2 AIS and 85/1.4 AFD. The 50/1.2 is sublime and pairs really well with the 85/1.4 as a look. I got mine for £370 or thereabouts, which may be more than a 50/1.4 but it is not that expensive considering equivalent lenses.
 
I shoot with 5 Nikon Lenses with my Nikon F3, and each one is quite distinct:

Nikon Nikkor AI-s 50mm f/1.2 - Extremely sharp slightly stopped down to f/2
Nikkor-S Auto 50mm f/2 (9-bladed aperture) (AI'd) - Vintage glass from 1959. Easy to get objects in focus. Not sharp wide-open, but great at f5.6 and f8. I love how it renders color.
Nikkor-N.C. Auto 24mm f/2.8 (AI'd) - An interesting vintage lens that I use for general wide shots. Not the sharpest lens, but pretty good stopped down. Renders color quite well.
Micro-Nikkor AI-s 55mm f/2.8 - A very sharp lens wide-open that is great for micro-photography and general street photography.
GN Auto Nikkor-C 45mm f/2.8 (AI'd) - A compact lens that takes pretty good shots. Nothing spectacular, but a good street shooter that renders color well.

Below is my Lomography Nikon F3 Album with over 200 photos taken with these different lenses. You may be able to notice certain characteristics from each lens:
https://www.lomography.com/homes/pmonroe/albums/2142205-nikon-f3

Hope this helps.

-Paul
 
I keep a bag for my F3 or FM3a that includes the following lenses:
28mm f/2.8 Ai-s + hood (as many others recommended...an incredible lens)
50mm f/1.4 Ai-s +hood (it is good to have speed sometimes, and this lens delivers)
85mm f/1.8 Auto-H + hood (Ai-converted, awesome lens...I also own the 85/1.4D but it is much bigger and heavier than the Auto-H)
135mm f/2.8 Ai

If lighting is good and/or I think I might take macro shots then I'll swap out the 50/1.4 for:
55mm f/2.8 Ai-s (perhaps the sharpest Ai-s lens ever made)

I like this bag set-up, it is compact and light, and all of the lenses have 52mm front filter threads, produce almost no distortion, and are a joy to use.

If you want something super cheap, very good image quality, and ultra-light and compact, consider getting a 50mm f/1.8 Series-E...I keep one of these mounted on a FG-20 for my ultralight/ultracompact setup.
 
NikonDude said:
If lighting is good and/or I think I might take macro shots then I'll swap out the 50/1.4 for:
55mm f/2.8 Ai-s (perhaps the sharpest Ai-s lens ever made)
Click to expand...

For years I used my old pre-AI 55mm f/3.5 Micro-Nikkor for my close-up work, and I was very satisfied. It was one of the two sharpest lenses in my collection. The other is a Tamron 90mm f/2.5 macro. Well, I was convinced of my 55/3.5's superiority until I wound up with a 55mm f/2.8 AIs as part of a kit I acquired. When I tried out that 55/2.8, I was stunned to see that, not only was it sharper than the 55/3.5, but that it was noticeably sharper. I've owned that 55/3.5 for almost 30 years, so it wasn't easy facing the fact that it was being retired, but you can't argue with such concrete results. So I'm inclined to agree with you that the 55/2.8 is probably the sharpest AIs lens ever made.
 
The 55/2.8 uses floating optics, the 55/3.5 has fixed elements and is optimized for 1:10 images. It's still a sharp lens. I end up using the 55/2.8 more than the 55/3.5.
 
I also have the 55/2.8 Micro and find it great for both general photography and macro. It's very sharp, I find. The below are not the most exciting shots but perhaps give an idea. They have been sharpened a bit in post, but not much (all with FM3A and scanned on a Coolscan 9000, first two on Portra 160 at EI80 and last two on Superia 200 at EI100).


Flickr


Flickr

I also have a 24/2.8 AI which I like because it is just a bit wider than 28 and has a long focus throw. It is also a small very light lens. I find that it gives good colour and that it handles against the light shooting well.


Flickr


Flickr
 
BrianVS said:
.....At $25 these days, what do you have to lose? A Pizza with 2 toppings and a coke?
Click to expand...

This is an excellent way to think about these things...Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Menu
Log in
Register