Nikon F3.....HP

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Russ - SVP

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C6684491-72B6-4764-9B04-D8DC577EC4D8.jpeg
As a person with small hands, the F3HP was an absolute handful, even more when I attached a Metz hammerhead flash to it, and the MD-14 and carried it all in the huge Karrimor front handlebar bag around Tasmania in 1986, including a 33km snow-covered slog into and out of Queenstown -- one of the coldest, gloomiest, lifeless and generally most unwelcoming places I've ever seen (never went back again!). Needless to say I had to walk up many more hills around Tassie than my touring companion who carried just an Olympus XA!! It's not a camera that I would go back to for nostalgia or practicality.

For traveling very light, I go with my Oly RC.
 

Helge

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Why does none of the F3s showed here show any signs of brassing around the strap lugs?! Especially on the angle where the strap is constantly rubbing against the body, when it is around your neck?
Used mine once and BAM! Brassing!
Was I duped with a weak paint touch up job, and is the paint just naturally weak?
Are you guys constantly carrying in hand or bag?
 

Russ - SVP

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Why does none of the F3s showed here show any signs of brassing around the strap lugs?! Especially on the angle where the strap is constantly rubbing against the body, when it is around your neck?
Used mine once and BAM! Brassing!
Was I duped with a weak paint touch up job, and is the paint just naturally weak?
Are you guys constantly carrying in hand or bag?

Good question. I just received mine. And upon inspection, it appears that it was never or very lightly used. However, I have no issue with brassing. Some shooters prefer it. What type of strap are you using?
 

Helge

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Well, you pay dearly for the "very lightly used", or you were exceptionally lucky and bypassed the scalpers.
Standard Nikon strap used.
People who say they prefer brassing are the same type who says, "I did that on purpose" when making a mistake, making a virtue out of happenstance or unavoidable circumstances.
Brassing can be charming in certain designs and when you inflicted it yourself by normal everyday use over decades. But I'm undecided whether then F3 patinates well in that regard.
 

Russ - SVP

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Well, you pay dearly for the "very lightly used", or you were exceptionally lucky and bypassed the scalpers.
Standard Nikon strap used.
People who say they prefer brassing are the same type who says, "I did that on purpose" when making a mistake, making a virtue out of happenstance or unavoidable circumstances.
Brassing can be charming in certain designs and when you inflicted it yourself by normal everyday use over decades. But I'm undecided whether then F3 patinates well in that regard.

Helga

Maybe I got lucky. I also went for a non-HP version. I think that most shooters want the HP version. My camera repair buddy said that it looks as if new, barely used. Came with the red/brown Everready case too. I’m really liking it. The new F3 and my FE-2 compliment each other well. I slapped a very nice MD-4 onto it too.

Thanks
 

Helge

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Helga

Maybe I got lucky. I also went for a non-HP version. I think that most shooters want the HP version. My camera repair buddy said that it looks as if new, barely used. Came with the red/brown Everready case too. I’m really liking it. The new F3 and my FE-2 compliment each other well. I slapped a very nice MD-4 onto it too.

Thanks

Well, sometimes you're in for your share of luck if you keep looking. What did you pay?
Put some black electrical tape on the corners and a sticky protector in the bottom, if you decide you want to delay the onset of brassing.

The MD-4 is as fast as your ever going to want to shoot with film,. Though you could go to 13.5 fps if you wanted to, with the F3H and special motor.

I got a Rolleiflex 2.8f in very nice condition with Rolleinars and yellow filter for around a hundred and fifty dollars some years ago.
These cameras are paid off decades ago. What they are worth now is just speculation and hot air.
 

Russ - SVP

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Well, sometimes you're in for your share of luck if you keep looking. What did you pay?
Put some black electrical tape on the corners and a sticky protector in the bottom, if you decide you want to delay the onset of brassing.

The MD-4 is as fast as your ever going to want to shoot with film,. Though you could go to 13.5 fps if you wanted to, with the F3H and special motor.

I got a Rolleiflex 2.8f in very nice condition with Rolleinars and yellow filter for around a hundred and fifty dollars some years ago.
These cameras are paid off decades ago. What they are worth now is just speculation and hot air.


I don’t think it will “brass” all that quickly. The soft camera strap is all that come into contact with the upper body. And if it does brass a bit, I’m fine with that. I only procured the MD-4 to counter-balance my larger, heavier zooms. The same reason that I have MD-12’s on my FE-2’s. I never turn them on, and I only install four batteries instead of th eight that are required.

About four years ago, I watched a co-worker toss “ minty” Rolleiflex into the dumpster. I immediately fished it out. He had no clue as to what it was. A couple of hours ago, I stopped in at a local Camera shop. I found a new DK-4 eyepiece for my F3. They charged me $6,00 for it. They go for $34.00 on E Bay. I just wanted a spare one.

Russ
 

Helge

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Don’t be surprised if the brassing happens before you think though.
Even if the strap is soft, it’ll still polish off the paint, due to the constant slight movement for every step you take.
 

Russ - SVP

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Don’t be surprised if the brassing happens before you think though.
Even if the strap is soft, it’ll still polish off the paint, due to the constant slight movement for every step you take.

That’s fine with me. I’ll just tell others that it has been through a few wars, etc.
 

Vincent Peri

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Why does none of the F3s showed here show any signs of brassing around the strap lugs?! Especially on the angle where the strap is constantly rubbing against the body, when it is around your neck?
Used mine once and BAM! Brassing!
Was I duped with a weak paint touch up job, and is the paint just naturally weak?
Are you guys constantly carrying in hand or bag?

I've had about 12 F3HP's since the early 1980s, and I've had little or no brassing by the strap lugs with moderate usage. Looks like you got stuck with a bad repaint job.
 

Russ - SVP

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E1B4FA79-F5B7-4D8D-9123-2E53B8F7A9F3.jpeg
 

Chan Tran

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Why does none of the F3s showed here show any signs of brassing around the strap lugs?! Especially on the angle where the strap is constantly rubbing against the body, when it is around your neck?
Used mine once and BAM! Brassing!
Was I duped with a weak paint touch up job, and is the paint just naturally weak?
Are you guys constantly carrying in hand or bag?
Don't know either! This is my F3 and I use it a lot.
Analogue3_01.JPG
 

Mick Fagan

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This is my first one, taken a few moments ago.

While it has not had an easy life, it has had a hard but fair use life, with literally, thousands of rolls of film through it.

Mick.

F3_20181004_162251_001.jpg


F3_20181004_162217_002.jpg


F3_20181004_162144_003.jpg
 

Russ - SVP

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Mick Fagan

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They are reasonable lenses, E series that is, but definitely built to a price.

Their helices are plastic, not metal, so if you get a really used one the focusing may be a bit sloppy. The 35mm, 50mm and 100mm are single coated.

I have the 28mm and 35mm E series lenses, they are alright and good enough for me, but if you had the standard versions of these lenses side by side, it is possible to see a slight contrast difference in the viewfinder. I know this because I have done exactly that. I almost always use f/4 or higher so image quality is not too great a concern, when used wide open, they are both definitely soft but not that soft, if you know what I mean.

All of the Nikkor and Nikon 50mm f/1.8 lenses have 6 elements in 5 groups, all of them are 63.5mm x 48mm except the E series one which is 63.5mm x 33mm, so it is certainly more compact.

Source:- Nikon Compendium, Hillebrand and Hauschild.

Mick.
 

Mick Fagan

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They perform well but I wouldn't use them on the F3 as they would look out of place on the F3. On the EM however they look nice.

Well I've been doing something wrong for about 25 years, which is about the length of time I have been running a 28mm E series and 35mm E series on my F3's.

I would never have thought either of these look out of place.

Mick.

F3_20181006_131341_E_Series_001.jpg


F3_20181006_131317_E_Series_002.jpg
 

Russ - SVP

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Russ - SVP

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Mick Fagan

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The camera strap is just webbing from a hiking store 30+ years ago, along with some do it yourself components, the rings are key rings. Nothing fancy at all, but extremely effective.

These straps for all of my 35mm cameras allow me to lengthen or shorten, but generally I run a long strap over my right shoulder with the camera under my left hand, with my left hand mostly sitting on top of the prism to keep it steady. One then picks the camera up with the left hand underneath and the right just lightly holding it and firing the shutter and winding.

It is possible to wind the camera strap in such a manner that the strap is taut around the left arm, thereby almost making me a tripod; works well in high wind without a tripod. This was a common occurrence in Iceland last year with extremely high winds.

At one stage, we endured winds around 45ms to 60ms when photographing a Gannet colony. A tripod couldn't be used as we were standing on a steel platform that was moving in the wind as it stuck out directly from the land into air something like 40m above a boiling sea looking down to the colony and one of those industrial open galvanised steel mesh platforms; worked a treat, generally. It is almost impossible to walk with wind at that speed, except in spurts as you get your balance for a few steps. Pardon the pun, but it was a blast.

This short video in the last seconds shows the platform, just.



Mick.

F3_20181006_155820E_Series_003.jpg
 

Russ - SVP

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The camera strap is just webbing from a hiking store 30+ years ago, along with some do it yourself components, the rings are key rings. Nothing fancy at all, but extremely effective.

These straps for all of my 35mm cameras allow me to lengthen or shorten, but generally I run a long strap over my right shoulder with the camera under my left hand, with my left hand mostly sitting on top of the prism to keep it steady. One then picks the camera up with the left hand underneath and the right just lightly holding it and firing the shutter and winding.

It is possible to wind the camera strap in such a manner that the strap is taut around the left arm, thereby almost making me a tripod; works well in high wind without a tripod. This was a common occurrence in Iceland last year with extremely high winds.

At one stage, we endured winds around 45ms to 60ms when photographing a Gannet colony. A tripod couldn't be used as we were standing on a steel platform that was moving in the wind as it stuck out directly from the land into air something like 40m above a boiling sea looking down to the colony and one of those industrial open galvanised steel mesh platforms; worked a treat, generally. It is almost impossible to walk with wind at that speed, except in spurts as you get your balance for a few steps. Pardon the pun, but it was a blast.

This short video in the last seconds shows the platform, just.



Mick.

View attachment 208996


Mick

Thanks. I thought that it looked like climbing webbing. Being a former rockclimber, I find the webbing, person and mini binders to be quite useful.

Thanks
 

Russ - SVP

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cooltouch

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My F3 was almost mint when I bought it, and I've kept it that way. One thing I do with all my black enamel cameras is I use aftermarket straps that have extra cushioning or webbing around the strap lugs, preventing brassing. I have often cringed upon seeing a camera with one of those cheap straps that have the big metal clips that attach to the strap rings. Those things will dig through the paint in no time.
 
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