Nikon F3 aperture coupling issue

[nomadhacker]

I bought this beautiful Nikon F3 on ebay, and everything else, ironically all the electronics and shutter, even the LCD and LED work like out of the box perfect. The only problem is the aperture coupling ring thing on the camera body seems sluggish to respond when the lens aperture ring moves. Is this a sign of an immenent mechanical failure? or just something that needs a simple cleaning?

I’m within the 30 days return policy of the seller, but I’d hate to return such a pristine model if I don’t need to.

 

[Chan Tran]

Some cleaning would fix it.

 

[mshchem]

Yeah, I suspect that it may need a tiny cleaning with a cotton swab, with a very tiny amount of lighter flub applied to the swab. Hopefully you are using a Nikon brand lens.

 

[nomadhacker]

Thanks for your assessments everybody. I was worried it might be the internal pulley or something. Based on your feedback I ended up using a tiny bit of iso alcohol to clean it and now it moves smoothly.

 

[250swb]

Maybe it was cleaned a little too enthusiastically before you got it, some cleaning products can turn gummy when they dry unless they are thoroughly polished out. Glad the alcohol worked.

 

[beemermark]

Is that a non-AI lens or AI?

 

[nomadhacker]

That’s the Voigtlander 58mm f1.4 lens. It’s made to the AI-S spec and also includes a chip for modern cameras.

 

[skyline07]

I am facing the exactly same issue with my F3...how did you clean the lever? do i need remove the screws on the mount?

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I am facing the exactly same issue with my F3...how did you clean the lever? do i need remove the screws on the mount?

Yes, that will be necessary.

If you'd like, I can demonstrate it on an F3 from my spare parts stash.

I haven't done it yet, but I assume you have to be careful with the spring tensioner that tensions the aperture clutch.

I'll report tomorrow (CET) with some photos.

 

[skyline07]

Yes, that will be necessary.

If you'd like, I can demonstrate it on an F3 from my spare parts stash.

I haven't done it yet, but I assume you have to be careful with the spring tensioner that tensions the aperture clutch.

View attachment 399209

I'll report tomorrow (CET) with some photos.

Thanks Andreas, I used compressed air and a thin thread to carefully clean the gap between the linkage rod and the body today, and then the problem was solved. I guess it was caused by fine dust stuck in the gap, now it is running totally smoothly and I don't need to remove mount anymore.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

The photos are of an already disassembled F3P, but there should be no significant deviations from the standard F3.

Unfortunately, overall it is not as easy as hoped.

My F3 has thin shims inserted under the bayonet screws. You have to be careful of their position when removing the bayonet ring.

Spring

The ring with the aperture coupling hangs on a cable that goes inside the camera.

The cable runs over a roller.

The cable is connected to this gear, which is presumably spring-loaded, and is connected to the FRE element (Functional Resistance Element) to the left below the rewind crank (not visible here).

The aperture and ASA settings are transmitted to the camera's circuitry via the FRE contacts.

---

Conclusion

• If dirt has accumulated under the aperture coupling ring, preventing it from rotating, you can remove it.
• Be careful not to let the cable pulley come off the roller.
• If the problem is with the internal gear that holds the cable, the F3 will need to be disassembled.
• Never spray oil or WD-40 without visibility, I only say it for the sake of completeness

+++

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Thanks Andreas, I used compressed air and a thin thread to carefully clean the gap between the linkage rod and the body today, and then the problem was solved. I guess it was caused by fine dust stuck in the gap, now it is running totally smoothly and I don't need to remove mount anymore.

Great, congrats!