Nikon F2A Photomic Finder DP-11

BradS

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reddesert

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Don't use serial numbers as a guide for whether a lens is AI or not, especially for 3rd party lenses. Learn what the tabs on the back of an AI lens aperture ring look like, and look for those tabs.
 
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kr236rk

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reddesert said:
Don't use serial numbers as a guide for whether a lens is AI or not, especially for 3rd party lenses. Learn what the tabs on the back of an AI lens aperture ring look like, and look for those tabs.
Click to expand...

I look for the ears + double set of ap numbers
 
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kr236rk

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Gone in for a Vivitar 35-105mm f3.2-4 Nikon F AI-s Wide Zoom Macro lens - this is for indoor studio work, when I need the DP-11 metering.
 

BradS

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kr236rk said:
Thanks - that has ears, but is non-AI, so I couldn't use the DP-11 with it?
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The DP-11 does NOT use the rabbit ears. The DP-11 uses the notch in the rear of the lens. AI <==> NOTCH !!!

The rabbit ears on the AI lenses are a carry over from their non-AI ancestors. They allow the the newer AI lenses to work with older camera bodies designed for non-AI lenses.

The auto extension tube in the second link above will work with the DP-11.
 
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kr236rk

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Thanks. Gosh okay, I'm just going to have to take this step by step - the acid test will be using the lenses with the DP-11, the ones I've got for the studio are all AI / AI-s. The fact I can now use tubes with them will be a huge advantage: I mix outdoor landscape with indoor macro to create multiple exposures. The studio work really does require TTL metering. Outdoors I use a Gossen hand-held meter.
 

jimjm

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Three Nikon extension tubes are AI-compatible: PK-11, PK-12 or PK-13, with PK-13 being the longest tube and giving the greatest magnification.
 
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kr236rk

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jimjm said:
Three Nikon extension tubes are AI-compatible: PK-11, PK-12 or PK-13, with PK-13 being the longest tube and giving the greatest magnification.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will experiment with these when I have got my head round the lenses & DP-11, which are on their way
 
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kr236rk

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DP-11 arrived, on newer F2

Light meter tested & functioning.

AI / AI-s lenses yet to arrive ~ do I need to engage 'rabbit ears' when I connect the new lenses to the camera body please?
 

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kr236rk

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Non-functional DP-1 Head.

Will need to replace DP-1 with the functioning DP-11, when AI lenses arrive.

This camera still has film in it - waiting to be multiple exposed.
 

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jimjm

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kr236rk said:
DP-11 arrived, on newer F2

Light meter tested & functioning.

AI / AI-s lenses yet to arrive ~ do I need to engage 'rabbit ears' when I connect the new lenses to the camera body please?
Click to expand...

Nope, at this point the rabbit ears won't touch anything. The chrome lever under the "A" will engage the ridge on the aperture ring of your AI/AIS lenses. No need to do the Nikon "twist" anymore either.
 
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kr236rk

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jimjm said:
Nope, at this point the rabbit ears won't touch anything. The chrome lever under the "A" will engage the ridge on the aperture ring of your AI/AIS lenses. No need to do the Nikon "twist" anymore either.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

So what connects from the lens to the DP-11 meter, please - is it something on the back of the AI lens - or is it the chrome lever, making the connection?
 

madNbad

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The notches on the rear of the lens or more correctly, a notch on the rear of the aperture ring will engage the lever on the meter head. Prior to the auto indexing, it was the prong on the aperture ring that would engage a pin on the metering head. You’ll often see non Ai lenses that have been home modified by cutting away both part of the latch mechanism on the rear of the lens and part of the aperture ring. When the lens is modified, it’s the aperture ring that moves the tab. Real Ai and Ai-S lenses have cut outs in the metering prong to allow light onto the secondary set of aperture numbers so they can be read when viewing through the finder.
That’s why it’s necessary to move the Ai tab out of the way with non-Ai lenses.The unmodified mount tabs can catch it a bend it.
 
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Roger Thoms

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A few photos might help. DP-11 with an AI lens.

Roger
 

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reddesert

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Chan Tran

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The DP-11 (or DP-12 or any AI body) doesn't use the rabbit ear and thus it's fully compatible with the Series E lenses made for the EM as well as AF lenses that have the aperture ring. Nikon kept the rabbit ears on the AI and AI-S lenses so that they are compatible with the non AI bodies (DP-1, 2 and 3). The rabbit ear on the AI/AI-S lenses has the cut out so that light fall on the secondary aperture ring at f/5.6 so you can see the aperture in the viewfinder with the DP-11. With the DP-1 the aperture scale is built in to the finder. So really AI is a cost saving measure. So AI (automatic indexing is really no indexing).
 
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kr236rk

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madNbad said:
Thanks. I don’t own a Nikon any longer but had a whole bunch of them over the years.
Click to expand...

Ah, thanks all! That black ridge is what you are calling a notch, I was very confused, because some Nikon/Nikkor lenses actually have a shallow, oval notch at the aluminium rear of the lens. Also, the DP-11 / AI tab is very similar to the prongs on the DP-1, although they serve completely different ends. My AI lenses haven't turned up yet, so I'm still on the learning curve
 
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kr236rk

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Thank you - the second link I have. I also have the F2A Manual in hard copy now, it saved my sanity when I couldn't get the light meter to work, because reading it explained that the rewind lever must be partially out, to turn the light meter on.

I won't use the DP-11 for the early lenses I have, because I use the F2 as a waist-level-finder camera outdoors.

It's only indoor studio-work where I need metering, for tricky lighting & long exposures, on a tripod or support.
 
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kr236rk

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F2 Head-related question.

DW -1 Waist Level Finder

"its projected image inside is reversed left to right but NOT top-to-bottom."

That's landscape format - what do you see as portrait format please: will the image be reversed + upside down?


Thanks
 

Chan Tran

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Yes the image will be upside down if you use it for portrait orientation. It would be quite a problem using in portrait orientation.
 
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kr236rk

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Thanks, hm. Already rigged up a loupe as a waist-view - wondering if the DW-1 will actually be an improvement?
 

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MattKing

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You put the camera on a tripod and raise it to eye level.
Then you rotate the tripod head so the lens is pointing to the subject and the finder is pointing sideways.
Then you stand to the side that the finder is pointing to and look at the upside down image to compose and focus.
It will help you gain an appreciation of the early portrait photographers
This image was done that way with a 6x4.5 camera - using its self timer:


I really should have had my hair cut before that day
 
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