Nikon F2 metering issue.

[monkowa]

Hello everybody, I have a beautiful condition F2 that, until recently, worked perfectly. The metering system doesn't seem to want to cooperate. It remains in the 'minus' underexposed reading no matter what I do. Here's what I've done so far to troubleshoot.:
1. Swapped out three different metering prisms, they are all tested, and all of them work. A DP-1, a DP-3 and a DP-11. THey all show the same, underexposed Minus reading.
2. Changed the batteries.
3. Rubbed and cleaned the contacts on the body and the prisms with a pencil eraser first, then with a light coating of alcohol until they were clean. I also did the same with the battery chamber.

Now, this might mean there's a wiring issue within the body itself but this is kind of weird to me considering that there's still a current from the batteries to the prisms. Do you folks have any suggestions as to what more could be done or to what the underlying issue may be? THanks yall!

 

[Chan Tran]

It's strange. If the prism is good then it should work. The body only supply electric power to the prism and if the DP-3 LED is on then there is power. The DP-1 and DP-11 I think the meter needle would be in the center if there is no power (is it so when you turn off the power?) I never had an F2 with the DP-1 or DP-11.

 

[BobD]

Where is ASA setting and what lens are you using? Non-AI? AI? E-series? AF Nikkor?

 

[monkowa]

Where is ASA setting and what lens are you using? Non-AI? AI? E-series? AF Nikkor?

It started when I had it set to 400 ASA, when I noticed the issue I switched the ASA to different settings and the problem remained. As for lenses, I used a 50mm 1.4 ai with the rabbit ears and a 24mm ai-s also with the rabbit ears to test with.

 

[Arvee]

I assume you're clocking the aperture ring to the max aperture when mounting the lens.

My F2 had a similar problem (it was a mint, seldom used camera) that was fixed by working the shutter speed dial as the internal contacts had oxidized from non-use.

 

[monkowa]

I assume you're clocking the aperture ring to the max aperture when mounting the lens.

My F2 had a similar problem (it was a mint, seldom used camera) that was fixed by working the shutter speed dial as the internal contacts had oxidized from non-use.

The ol' Nikon twist? Yeah, I automatically do that with these pre-ai systems. Ill see if the shutter speed dial will help. Im hoping the inner wiring hasn't oxidized cause thats the only thing I can think of, that it's an internal issue.

 

[Dennis-B]

Try cleaning the threads on the battery cover. It's possible that you're not getting good contact there. I use a thin piece of Scotchbrite to thoroughly clean the threads. You have a DC circuit, and the negative pole can be a bit tricky sometimes.

 

[reddesert]

Take off the prism and test the voltage on the body contacts (the two silver circles on either side of the focusing screen) with a volt meter. You should see 3 volts. If you see something less, then you have resistance / poor contacts somewhere in the body. Obviously you have some power because the LEDs light, but until you measure it, can't be sure if it's enough.

In my case, I had no power, and it was because there was corrosion in the switch contacts that are activated when the wind lever is pulled out. This, at least, is easily cleaned after removing the bottom cover.

 

[abruzzi]

I discovered on of my older F-2s was intermittently powered and power would jump on and off if I put my thumb on the pivot point of the film advance and wiggle it. Since you’ve tried a DP-3, and you saw the LEDs light, I assume you are getting power, but I figured I throw out that possibility.

 

[Nikon 2]

Hello everybody, I have a beautiful condition F2 that, until recently, worked perfectly. The metering system doesn't seem to want to cooperate. It remains in the 'minus' underexposed reading no matter what I do. Here's what I've done so far to troubleshoot.:
1. Swapped out three different metering prisms, they are all tested, and all of them work. A DP-1, a DP-3 and a DP-11. THey all show the same, underexposed Minus reading.
2. Changed the batteries.
3. Rubbed and cleaned the contacts on the body and the prisms with a pencil eraser first, then with a light coating of alcohol until they were clean. I also did the same with the battery chamber.

Now, this might mean there's a wiring issue within the body itself but this is kind of weird to me considering that there's still a current from the batteries to the prisms. Do you folks have any suggestions as to what more could be done or to what the underlying issue may be? THanks yall!

I believe your problem is the same as mine!
The film advance lever’s switch is either dirty or corroded not allowing power to reach the meters…!

 

[Nikon 2]

I discovered on of my older F-2s was intermittently powered and power would jump on and off if I put my thumb on the pivot point of the film advance and wiggle it. Since you’ve tried a DP-3, and you saw the LEDs light, I assume you are getting power, but I figured I throw out that possibility.

Yes, the film advance switch is the problem…!

 

[reddesert]

As I mentioned just upthread, if the switch activated by the wind lever is suspected to be the problem, it is easy to address, because it is under the bottom cover (baseplate). Take off the bottom cover. You will see that when the wind lever is pulled out, it pushes down a rod that runs from the top of the camera to the bottom, and depresses a metal leaf, closing the switch contacts. There may be corrosion between the contacts, so just get in there and clean it, eg with a cloth moistened with vinegar, the tip of a screwdriver, some very light sanding, whatever you need to get the crud off. Also look for any broken wires while you are doing this.

 

[Nikon 2]

As I mentioned just upthread, if the switch activated by the wind lever is suspected to be the problem, it is easy to address, because it is under the bottom cover (baseplate). Take off the bottom cover. You will see that when the wind lever is pulled out, it pushes down a rod that runs from the top of the camera to the bottom, and depresses a metal leaf, closing the switch contacts. There may be corrosion between the contacts, so just get in there and clean it, eg with a cloth moistened with vinegar, the tip of a screwdriver, some very light sanding, whatever you need to get the crud off. Also look for any broken wires while you are doing this.

Thank you…!

 

[Nikon 2]

Since I had the “non meter reading” from my Nikon F2, that I presumed was the advance lever switch, got the myLightMeter pro app on my IPhone. Has anyone tried this app with a vintage camera…?

 

[BradS]

Since I had the “non meter reading” from my Nikon F2, that I presumed was the advance lever switch, got the myLightMeter pro app on my IPhone. Has anyone tried this app with a vintage camera…?

Yes. I have been using that exact app for several years. It’s pretty good - just don’t include too much of the sky when you take a meter reading.

 

[Nikon 2]

Yes. I have been using that exact app for several years. It’s pretty good - just don’t include too much of the sky when you take a meter reading.

I always use a Tiffen graduated filter on my lenses to help the sky not being washed out…!