I have a Nikon F2 and have just started using it. Everything seems to work fine on the camera except when I go to advance the film I advance it like normal and then push the shutter and it doesnt let the button go down. So I crank the flm advance crank again and there is no reistence until the last bit of motion. Then it fires normally. So everytime I take a picture I have to crank it twice. The film advance normally 1 frame per shutter release. Its just annoying is all. Is there a simple fix? Thanks.
Nikon F2 film advance problem. Takes two cranks to reset the shutter? Why?
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- Thread starter 68degrees
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Are you sure you moved the lever a full stroke? What you describe would be right if it's not fully cocked.
I've had F2 cameras since 1973. I've not experienced what you describe. Could just be a bit of dirt or gunk preventing a full stroke. Maybe try to blow around the lever with compressed air? ?? Amazing cameras but all mechanical ,so needs CLA. I always would wind then keep my thumb in front of the winder lever as a grip. It's definitely not normal.
yes I move it a full stroke to the very end of the travel and then I make sure it is at the end. I let it go and it returns the the closed position. I try to fire it and 8 out of 10 times it does not fire. So I have to advance it again only this time the lever only moves about 1/4 to 1/2" and stops. I release it and it returns to the position where the red dot shows. Then I push the shutter release and it fires.
the other thing I just noticed. I opened the back and watched as I cranked the lever and I noticed that the lever moves about 3/4" to 1" before the sprocket starts moving. When I get to the nd of the travel if I with my finger move the sprocket a little more then I can fire the shutter button. So maybe a tooth up in the lever in the top of the camera is worn or broke off and thats why once it a while it will go on one stroke. Anyone here ever had the top off of one of these?
The ratchet pawl spring is giving way. The problem should be a simple matter, but will not correct itself without opening it up. I have not opened up an F2 in more than 30 years, so my diagnosis may not be accurate, but the repair is. Under the top right cover as the front of the camera is pointed away from you.
Ok so the spring is giving way. What do i do? I open the top and then do I get a new spring and replace it or do I do something to the spring and put it back? I have tomassays book but he only talks about the F2 for about a page and a half. I think he shows how to take the top off.
I could very well be wrong. But that's not the point. the point is to get inside and observe. Take your time and the problem will become evident after a while. that's what troubleshooting is. That's why I believe anybody can do it, if they just take their time. the one thing I tend to stand by what i said is that the problem is most likely under the top right cover. Of course it goes without saying that almost all problems of this nature have their origin in failure to have the cameras serviced once every 425 years. More often if possible.
A copy of the Nikon factory service manual is available at http://arcticwolfs.net/
Factory service manuals are written for factory trained technicians.
Factory service manuals are written for factory trained technicians.
I had this same problem and fixed it as per this resource post.......https://www.photrio.com/forum/resources/nikon-f2-winder-lockup-or-double-winding-problems.359/
where would I have it serviced? There is a F2 whisperer in UK but the waiting list is 16 months and it will cost $500 round trip. Do you know anyone in the states that works on Nikon film SLRs?
Thats a great reply. I may buy a second body thats all dented up so I can learn on it. Regarding the service manual is it in Japanese? Apprentice is right, I wish I had someone to teach me.
These guys can fix anything and charge reasonable rates . Miracle workers, they have parts too.
http://www.united-camera.com
Its in both English and Japanese. The parts list are dual language, other pages single language with the same information in the other language on the next page. Download it and look through it. The camera as a whole is complex and confusing, the malfunctioning section is less so. Diagram 2 on manual page 9 pdf page 11 shows the top to be in two sections so you only need to concern yourself with the wind side. The diagrams called Illustrated Parts Breakdown are numbered in either Disassembly order or Assembly order. This appears to be Disassembly order with sub assembly and attaching parts included. Diagrams 3 and 4 show the breakdown of the wind and release assemblies.
When working on a single problem only remove what is necessary to get to the failed part. Only concern yourself with the assembly/sub assembly that is failing. In this case leave the release and counter alone unless the counter is attached to the wind gear you need to remove/replace.
Sending it out for a CLA with fix of the wind problem is a good idea.
Knowing whats going on in there can be helpful in diagnosing problems.
No. I simply looked at the diagram and the wind lever in particular and saw that the cap has the lowest number (201) and the lever itself the higher number(225) with the attaching screws in the 800's. 225a and 225b are sub assemblies of 225. One must use standard mechanical knowledge to make such an assessment as the lever will not come off until the retaining screw are removed and the screws cannot be removed until the trim cap is removed.
Most manufacturers will stay with one standard of notations in their manuals but its always best to check. Often there is an introductory page that states the order and explains the part numbering.
Well, I scanned through the manual and there is NO definitive assembly/disassembly order to the diagrams. Item 1 is the main body frame, 2 the mirror box, 3 and 4 the top covers and so on. 2xx numbers are the wind, 3xx the rewind and so on. Within the sub assemblies they numbers seem to be in disassembly order.
68degrees, read the assembly points starting on pdf page 35, open the diagram in a 2nd window, and the parts list in a 3rd window and toggle between them to better understand what the assembly point is describing.
30FBD-3 is the wind and shutter release plate assembly with Fig.4 that assembly exploded into its individual parts.
If I had a dead body and no funds to have it serviced then I might attempt the repair with just the information in the factory manual but I would prefer a more detailed guide.
Take good pictures as you go if you do it yourself as they are invaluable for reassembly.
68degrees, read the assembly points starting on pdf page 35, open the diagram in a 2nd window, and the parts list in a 3rd window and toggle between them to better understand what the assembly point is describing.
30FBD-3 is the wind and shutter release plate assembly with Fig.4 that assembly exploded into its individual parts.
If I had a dead body and no funds to have it serviced then I might attempt the repair with just the information in the factory manual but I would prefer a more detailed guide.
Take good pictures as you go if you do it yourself as they are invaluable for reassembly.
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