Nikon F2, FE2 or FM2?

[tac]

You know, any of these cameras would work great for your intended purpose; Nikon made great film cameras. They had different intended uses, but none were really failures, in my opinion. I used my FM2 professionally for years (no battery, no problem), until I poked my finger through the shutter and never bothered to get it replaced. I sold my FE, but I miss it to this day- the solid sound of the shutter. My four FE2's and 8008 all have the most accurate shutters I have ever tested, and I've tested a lot of shutters; I bet that the newer AF's are close to perfection.

All in all, I would suggest going to KEH and buying an EX grade body for the lowest price you can find.

And I wish everyone a great New Year!

 

[epatsellis]

The F3 is indeed a great camera. However, there are two quirks that I don't like:
a) the shutter has no clear release point. Well, of course it always releases at the same point, however you can't feel that you're there. FM's are better here.
b) viewfinder LCD illumination is practically non-existent.

For me, its strong points are: excellent eye relief, very easy to focus all the way into the corners (try this with an FM series).

Agreed, you have to get used to each camera (or have them adjusted so they are reasonably close)

The eye relief is even better with the DA2, and it usually stays on one body all the time.


erie

 

[Lee Shively]

If you decide on an F3, try to get the High Eyepoint model. Many of the early model F3 non-HP cameras had lots of problems with the electronics. I owned one with motordrive, it was wretched and Nikon was unable to make it reliable despite many returns. The same for the FM and FE--try to get later models. Early FM and FE models, especially those combined with the early motor drives, had a lot of problems that were solved in later production.

 

[ehparis]

Get an F2A. Go with the Nikon pro F line whenever possible. You won't regret it.

 

[snegron]

If you decide on an F3, try to get the High Eyepoint model. Many of the early model F3 non-HP cameras had lots of problems with the electronics. I owned one with motordrive, it was wretched and Nikon was unable to make it reliable despite many returns. The same for the FM and FE--try to get later models. Early FM and FE models, especially those combined with the early motor drives, had a lot of problems that were solved in later production.

Very interesting point! This has been my buying philosophy for several years now: get the latest serial number you can if you plan to use the camera frequently. It seems that Nikon has always worked out its production bugs toward the end of the production cycle of a particular model. The same seems to hold true even with its non film cameras. The last ones made are usually more reliable.

 

[rpilottx]

Have owned Nikon F/F2/F3 and FE/FM models. All are solid cameras. I think the Nikon F became the camera of photojournalists in the 1960's because you could drive nails with them in your spare time. They were not quite as delicate as a Pentax even though the Pentax had the first TTL meter.

I have gone back to the cameras I used in college and guess what, it is the original unmetered Nikon F so let me suggest you take a look at one of those before you decide. Nikon non AI lenses are supercheap and often the same design as the AI'ed version.

It is hard to beat a handheld incident light meter and a non metered body.

 

[T42]

... It is hard to beat a handheld incident light meter and a non metered body.

Amen.

I don't know if it matters, but if 100% frame accurate viewing is important, it is only available in the F class Nikons. The others have cropped viewing.

I would go with the F2 or F3HP if agility were not my first priority (and it isn't).

Happy day.

 

[waterkey]

I agree with singram--FM2 or 2n gives best combination of portability, features, ruggedness, and it is not battery dependent as are FE, FE2, or F3.

 

[ehparis]

>>I agree with singram--FM2 or 2n gives best combination of portability, features, >>ruggedness, and it is not battery dependent as are FE, FE2, or F3.

Jim

I like the Nikon F (eyelevel) or F2A because they're both built on the famous F series bodies and don't require batteries to function (although the F2A does if in camera metering is desired).

I'm torn between the two as I have both.

Jerry

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

I was thinking about this just now: if you need only one camera that does everything, the FM3a is the way to go. It's an investment, but it will last, and does everything a mechanical/hybrid camera will ever do.

On the other hand, it's cheaper than a FM3a to buy both the FM2n and the FE2 if the shooting situations requiring automation do not overlap with those relying on mechanics only. I'm vaguely tempted to upgrade my FE to a FE2 just for the sake of playing with TTL flash...

 

[PhotoBob]

Might I suggest the FM2N. I had this one (purchased used), for several years as a remarkably versatile and useful camera.
I however, got rid of it and am more than delighted with the FM3A, which is just as wonderful to work with.
Anyway, just a few thoughts for your consideration.

 

[lens_hacker]

KEH has some good prices on F2 bodies, the BGN grade ones are reasonable prices. The collectors go after the EX+ and better, and the prices are "crazy". But a good, working F2 Photomic can be found in the $100~$200 range. You might also look at camera shows as well, the dealers may want to move the older film stuff fast. I've picked up a good, working F2 Photomic for $75 at a show. The mirror Bumper required replacement, a 10 minute job. I've also found a BGN grade F3HP at KEH for under $100. Caught them last December (2006) when their inventory was high.

 

[Mark Antony]

You'll have t prize my F2 from my cold dead...

Best £100 I ever spent
Mark

 

[redjackbonney]

Hi, My Nikon FE has just died today, I want to use my original lensbaby on a similar camera and I see from the lensbaby site that I can use either an F2, FE2 or FM2 / I use the camera to mainly take candids of my kids, I'm not worried about advanced metering or complicated widgets just a solid camera I can sling in my rucksack! any advise gratefully recieved. Cheers Andy

Any Nikon F mount will work with le Lensbaby...
Of all the cameras that you mention, the F2 is my very own clear favourite... In my opinion the best camera made by Nikon. They are tough as nails and I just got a spotless one from ebay, with working meter and everything for less than $100! Saying that, it's also true that they went out of production about 20 years ago and so are becoming more collectible. I guess you could also consider an FM, which will be tougher than the FE. I got a battered one lest year for around $70 and it's still tugging along just fine as long as I seal the back with duct tape as I really can't be asked to get the foam changed...

 

[fschifano]

Changing the foam on that camera is dead easy, and the supplies to do it are almost dirt cheap. There is a guy selling some foam on eBay now. See this auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/The-Truth-About...ryZ30038QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[vet173]

If you are looking at a manual camera discard the F-3. Great camera, had one. I would go f5 before f3. It's the only camera that I have ever had that shut down due to cold shooting sunrise at Mt. Ranier. Lasted most of the morning though. I think it would have been ok if I hadn't taken off the motor to save weight. I have an F2s that is my go to for 35. I will get the same shot with the same lens. I would spend the money for a good F2as, not mint but in good to ex cond. It is a chunk of change but you only have to do it once. Is there no doubt you will get your value ( or more ) back later if you sell. At least with the fm-2 you wont have other people drooling all over your camera while your trying to shoot.

 

[Squidward]

FE2: mechanical speed of 1/250s (X-sync), all other speeds are electronically controlled. Can do TTL flash, so you can pop in a new fancy SB-800 on it and they will talk to each other like old buddies.

The newest flashes don't communicate with the oldest TTL cameras, from what I hear.

I'm keeping my FE2 and I'm thinking of making my buddy an offer for his F4S.

 

[Russ - SVP]

The newest flashes don't communicate with the oldest TTL cameras, from what I hear.

I'm keeping my FE2 and I'm thinking of making my buddy an offer for his F4S.

I've used my FE-2 with the SB-800, with excellent results.

Kiron Kid

 

[nyoung]

Dollar for dollar, the F4s is "Da Bomb" right now - mounts every Nikkor lens ever made - meters with all but a very few, removable prism housing, good autofocus speed, good screen for manual focus, uses conventional cable release, every auto, program, manual exposure mode you'll ever need, good dedicated flash capability, lighter than F5 (six batteries instead of 8), high eyepoint finder. Bought mine about 4 months ago in an "Easy Pawn" with a lens for less than $300. Lately been using it more than the F5 for all the above mentioned reasons.
Earned my living with the FE and FE2 for much of the 1980s. They are great cameras but the F4s is so much more camera for very little money now.

 

[Squidward]

I've used my FE-2 with the SB-800, with excellent results.

Kiron Kid

That's good to know. I really need to pick up an SB-800 to use with my D70.

Hmm, I wonder how the FE2 will work with the SU-800 remote speedlight commander? Ah, nevermind, I'll never have a need for one if my D70 can do the exact same thing for free.

 

[mikebarger]

I used a F with F36 motordrive for many years, reget ever selling it. The F2 didn't quite fit my hands right. I love the F3HP, but it doesn't have the appeal of a F with motordrive for me.

Mike

 

[Paul Goutiere]

Dollar for dollar, the F4s is "Da Bomb" right now - mounts every Nikkor lens ever made

They are great cameras but the F4s is so much more camera for very little money now.

I've been thinking of an F4 for a while now but if I were to get one I'd want to fit a autofocus lens to it, which I don't have now.

Then I'd want another autofocus lens, and another.

Then by God I might just as well get that nice D3 to fit those lenses.

Stay with the F2, F3 scenario!

 

[Jacques D.]

Hi, My Nikon FE has just died today, I want to use my original lensbaby on a similar camera and I see from the lensbaby site that I can use either an F2, FE2 or FM2 / I use the camera to mainly take candids of my kids, I'm not worried about advanced metering or complicated widgets just a solid camera I can sling in my rucksack! any advise gratefully recieved. Cheers Andy

I have 2 F2s, 2 FM2s, 1FM and 1 FT2. All are great & solid cameras. I would not buy an FE or FE2, because of the electronics, these tend to go down first in any older camera and anyway I do not want automation in a camera. On the other hand, I am sure, in most cases a Nikon FE will be repairable. Why don't you consider this?

Jacques

 

[Squidward]

I'm keeping my FE2 and I'm thinking of making my buddy an offer for his F4S.

I'm picking up the F4s this Saturday.

An F4 will take pictures with manual focus lenses just fine. It's just that it will work with autofocus lenses, too.

 

[PhotoJim]

An F4 will take pictures with manual focus lenses just fine. It's just that it will work with autofocus lenses, too.

The F4 is also the only Nikon that does matrix metering with AI and AI-S lenses (unfortunately it won't do it with AI-converted lenses). (The FA did Automatic Multi-Pattern metering which was a precursor to matix.) This is another good reason to use the F4 with manual-focus lenses.

Jim