nikon f metering

[metchaphiv]

So, fellow APUGers,

I've reached out to all of you before when I needed help finding my perfect film SLR. I recently purchased my own Nikon F and am ecstatic about shooting my first roll. However, this first roll will have to be shot using my own intuition with gauging aperture and shutter speed selection because I currently do not have a meter for it (yes, I know, not even a handheld one...).

Here's what I'm looking for:
--something durable
--least cumbersome
--reliably accurate

I need your opinions - what meter do you think would be best for my nikon F and why? Also, price range for your suggestion?

 

[2F/2F]

You are in luck. The original Nikon F metering head with the incidence attachment in place will likely be the most consistently accurate of any in-camera meter ever made (unless there are other in-camera incident meters that I don't know about, which there probably are).

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

The FTn meter prism is the last and the best (a least from a functional point of view).
The problems are:
1) It will make the camera itself a bit more cumbersome.
2) Finding a perfectly working one could be a problem.
3) The "obsolete battery problem" actually has many easy solutions (ask again), despite the circulating rumours.

Advantages:
1) Make the camera look fantastic (IMHO - a matter of taste of course - like a Henry Moore sculpture).
2) Quickest, most practical and least fiddly solution
3) The meter is accurate when working properly (once checked or adjusted, should keep working well for a looong time...)

I don't normally like handheld meters, unless I'm really doing slow, deliberate work, where utmost accuracy (incident light), multiple readings or other factors are involved, as they really do take extra time to pull out and use.
In that case I'd recommend one of the Sekonic 308 models (small, light, accurate, tough, does everything, reasonably affordable).

 

[budrichard]

As stated, find a working FTn head, after 40 years the Fm3a exposure system is a mirror of the original FTn. The Nikon engineers and designers hit a home run with that center weighted system.-Dick

 

[Leighgion]

"Best" is a tough call since it's so individual.

However, if you can't easily find the Nikon metering head the others are suggesting, the Sekonic L-208 Twinmate is small, light, has an analog dial and is the cheapest handheld meter currently sold new that I'm aware of. Can be had for $100 USD fresh in the shops. Comes with a neckstrap and little screw-on foot so you can stick it onto your camera's hotshoe if you're so inclined. I am not, but it's nice that the option is included.

I can't say much about how fine its accuracy is, but I've never been dissatisfied with the results I've gotten trusting mine.

 

[Ap507b]

A later Weston Euromaster would be cheap & compact. I planned on using my 60's vintage Gossen Sixtino when I got my F, but found that the selenium cell had died. Wound up replacing it with a cheap Gossen Profisix off of ebay. Seems very accurate and can take spot & flash attachments, but it would fail on the cumbersome requirement. A lot of meter for the money though.

 

[cooltouch]

I've been using my F2 with non-metered prism finder and Gossen Luna Pro F for metering purposes for over twenty years now, and while it's a bit slow, I tend to prefer taking my time anyway. Nowadays the Gossen Luna Pros can be picked up for quite reasonable sums. The ones I've owned have all been dead-nuts accurate, so I don't hesitate recommending them.

However, if you prefer a metering finder, then I too would recommend the Photomic FTN finder. It's the easiest and most practical to use. Personally, if I didn't have that one to use, I would go for the original, non-TTL finder with the incident attachment, mostly because I've always thought that it's the coolest looking of all the F finders.

 

[msage]

When I bought my F and F2's the first thing I did was take the meter prism off and put on the plain, un-metered prism on. Get a good hand held meter. I like the Gossen SBC meter. I good meter will run you $50 on up.

 

[Pumal]

One more vote for the Luna Pro. I find myself using my own 'sunny 16' many times.

 

[bsdunek]

I have two plain F's and two F's with FTN meters. Both meters work really great. One which I bought for a song didn't work when I bought it. The problem is the resistor drum inside. If you want if fixed, they'll tell you it can't be fixed because parts aren't available, which they aren't. What I've found is, it's just dirt and crud built up on the resister. I've fixed several for others as well as mine. It just takes a careful application of electrical equipment cleaner and a Q-Tip. I'm sure some resistor drums are bad, but most just are dirty, in my experience.
Just IMHO.

 

[ragc]

I second the post above. I have also "repaired" two FTn prism's meters by just cleaning the circular contact with a q-tip and naphta. The FTns can be found relatively inexpensively (especially when compared with the smaller 'plain' prism).

 

[John Hermanson]

Depending on the age of the Nikon F body, the FTn meter head might not fit. Older Fs name plate are too thick, and 2 tabs at the rear of the focus screen well have to filed down. Factory repair was to install the thinner name plate, file and paint the tabs. FTn is least likely to suffer from worn down VR ring (which causes wildly erratic meter behavior). I did 2 years in Nikon Service when it was still being distributed by Ehrenreich Photo Optical (EPOI) in Garden City, NY. John, www.zuiko.com

 

[lxdude]

Depending on the age of the Nikon F body, the FTn meter head might not fit. Older Fs name plate are too thick, and 2 tabs at the rear of the focus screen well have to filed down. Factory repair was to install the thinner name plate, file and paint the tabs. FTn is least likely to suffer from worn down VR ring (which causes wildly erratic meter behavior). I did 2 years in Nikon Service when it was still being distributed by Ehrenreich Photo Optical (EPOI) in Garden City, NY. John, www.zuiko.com

Note that if you have an unmodified older F, it's worth more than a modified one, So if you have one that's really clean, best to leave it unmodified and get another.