Nikon F Apollo

[leicarfcam]

I was reading that the so-called Nikon F Apollo started sometime during the 73xxxx serial number range. However I have one with a 72xxxx serial number and I am the second owner of it. I bought it several months after the original owner bought it in the military exchange (EP marked). Supposedly it had not had a top cover replacement so I am wondering if maybe some 72-series may have had this change..

Here are a couple of images of the camera..

 

[C Jensen]

Some discussion here.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=78196
Probably enough to answer your question.

 

[leicarfcam]

Some discussion here.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=78196
Probably enough to answer your question.

I have responded to that thread just today..

To add a bit more to the mystery, this camera has the plastic tipped advance lever and selftimer lever. It also has the threaded pc socket and stainless steel inserts to the strap eyelets which were also added to the Apollo..

 

[ColColt]

Apollo or not, this is still a sweet looking Nikon.

FTNBack by David Fincher, on Flickr
BlackFTN by David Fincher, on Flickr

 

[leicarfcam]

Apollo or not, this is still a sweet looking Nikon.

FTNBack by David Fincher, on Flickr
BlackFTN by David Fincher, on Flickr

Agreed..
I have a black paint Apollo coming today or tomorrow..

 

[John_Nikon_F]

Add an F-36, and you're golden...



David, this is the F that I received out of the "This Is A Crime" post on the FB Nikon F group, btw. A bit beat, but still works fine. 7378495 is its serial. As you can see, it's fairly close to your body.

This body is my eighth F2 cosmetics F that I've owned. I also have an early cosmetics chrome F that's waiting at the post office. Needs a finder and a back at the very least. That one is 7005214. I might wind up using it as a donor for the casting and some other parts when I have the black body overhauled. Casting was chipped on both sides and repaired by one of the NYC repair shops. They did a good job, but it doesn't look right, IMO.

-J

 

[ColColt]

It looks pretty familiar. There's only one nagging problem with mine. As you look through the viewfinder at the meter to center the needle for exposure, there appears to be a very tiny bit of trash/dust of some sort right in the middle of the "V" where the needle would be. I've taken the finder off, sprayed in every nook and cranny I could find but it hasn't budged. It doesn't seem to affect the needle movement at all but it's hard to overlook.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

It's probably under the white translucent window below the needle that's visible at the top. There's a little bump in the prism glass on a Photomic finder that reflects the needle downward into the prism. So, cleaning it would be something to get done when the finder gets overhauled.

-J

 

[ColColt]

The meter is fine, just that pesky piece of whatever it is. Would that be something I could do?

 

[John_Nikon_F]

Unfortunately, to gain access to the metering window area, everything has to come out. If you're ok with it being there, even though it's annoying to look at, I'd leave it and have someone clean it out when it does come time to overhaul the prism.

Oh, the aforementioned donor F is in my hands. Works properly after working the shutter for about 5 minutes on the slow speeds. Pleasantly surprised. Definitely one of my better scores, being only $18.50, plus the $12 shipping.

-J

 

[ColColt]

I know noting about those meters so will leave it alone. I did notice when I took it off you could shine a light down on top of the plastic "light gatherer" for lack of the proper word, and could not see that speck. However, shining it straight down through the glass itself you could see it well. You'd have to totally disassemble it to get to it-something I'm going to leave alone.

 

[ColColt]

BTW-has anyone tried using the Wein MRB625 batteries in the Photomic meters? I'm using one in my Leica MR-4 meter and it's done good for the past three months. I don't know about the Photomic meter, however.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

They work pretty well. That said, you could just get the adapter on eBay and then just set the ASA about 2/3 to a stop lower and call it good. Then, you can use the same batteries that you're using in your F2A in the F bodies. My F works fine with the adapter.

-J

 

[ColColt]

Wouldn't the 625A battery do the same thing without an adapter?

 

[leicarfcam]

Wouldn't the 625A battery do the same thing without an adapter?

The 625A battery has a voltage curve that drops like a rock and gives you only about 10% of the batteries life that delivers enough voltage to give accurate readings.. Some people claim to get good use out of alkaline but print film has a wide enough latitude to make you think it works fine..

 

[ColColt]

Hmmm...strange, that's the battery that Robert Decker suggested I use.

 

[leicarfcam]

Hmmm...strange, that's the battery that Robert Decker suggested I use.

A lot of people recommend the alkaline batteries. The reason being is it is the easiest method to power the mercury powered cameras. But it just does not work correctly because of the voltage curve.

Mercury and silver oxide has a nearly straight line curve since they both hold their voltage until the end of their lifespan. Alkaline on the other hand starts to drop as soon as you power on the meter and as a result the voltage will drop below the required voltage after about 10-15% of its lifespan. As it drops below about 1.30v it starts to drop faster.

The only real options are wein cell, adapter to take 1 or more silver oxide cells, schottky diode soldered inline with silver oxide cell for power, or re-calibration of the meter to use a silver oxide's slightly higher voltage..

I use the inline schottky diode method and it gives me consistently accurate results..

 

[John_Nikon_F]

The 625A or 625U batteries are recommended because they're a direct fit battery. Only reason why. Exell used to make an S625PX battery, which was ideal, in that it didn't require the adapter, but, again, like the regular PX625 batteries, had the desired voltage curve. The eBay adapter with a couple V76PX batteries, and a schottky diode installed in the power circuit (or the meter being recalibrated) is the best way to go about things. Allows the ability to get away from carrying too many types of batteries. Gossen sells an adapter that's like the eBay adapter, but it has a built-in schottky diode to drop the voltage down.

-J

 

[Xmas]

A plumbers rubber o ring and a hearing aid cell will work on some cameras without adjustment.

The o ring centres the battery the battery is about 4% shorter but the battery contact spring is normally good.

The on load voltage of the zinc cell is near to a Mercury cell for meters that take sufficient current.

The hearing aid cells last about 4 months (at 15C) but can weep (so remove and replace) but they and the o ring are available in small towns.

You need to test the meter in bright and dull light cause they are non linear if the cell is too old or the battery voltage is not close to 1.3 in service.

My OM1s are ok with hearing aid cells dull and bright 1/3 of a stop from my Weston's, YMMV.

 

[ColColt]

Is this the adapter on ebay referred to?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR-9-Batter...3-/130646083632?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

 

[Xmas]

Is this the adapter on ebay referred to?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR-9-Batter...3-/130646083632?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/batt-adapt-us.pdf

 

[ColColt]

That was quite a long read. Thanks for the link. Mucho information there for sure.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

Is this the adapter on ebay referred to?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR-9-Batter...3-/130646083632?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

As per your thread on Nikonians: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151718676694

-J

 

[ColColt]

There seems to be such a smorgasbord of ways to power these old meters-at least half a dozen or more from 1.5v batteries put in plain adapters to fit the battery chamber to adapters with diodes to air cell batteries with the proper voltage, etc. I suppose they'll all work, some perhaps better than others.

 

[Xmas]

There seems to be such a smorgasbord of ways to power these old meters-at least half a dozen or more from 1.5v batteries put in plain adapters to fit the battery chamber to adapters with diodes to air cell batteries with the proper voltage, etc. I suppose they'll all work, some perhaps better than others.

See post #19 for cheapest and most easily accessible.

But it won't be good for every meter you need to check in bright sun and in dim indoors against a known good meter.

The hearing aid and probably wein cells don't work in my Gossen meter.