Shocked, would not believe it unless I saw it with my own eyes. Let me assure fellow Nikon owners it is my one & only 35mm SLR. I started shooting with them in the early 70’s.
Greg came by today to pick up the free sink that I gave him. Just for fun, he came with his camera and LED light. Greg is a very nice fellow and very intelligent and is looking for a solution to his problem. My thought is to isolate the various factors so things that are not causing the problem in his pictures can be eliminated and help pinpoint the cause.
I can confirm light is getting into the camera. I put a PK13 on his EM and I almost thought that fixed the problem, however, it only reduced the light. A body cap (no lens) was a bit worse, probably fits looser.
So, since I have a lot of Nikon's we started to compare the ones I had. Now, I don’t store most of them with a battery in it since I usually use my favorite, the F3. Only the cameras that would open on “B” without a battery got tested.
The Nikon F2, no light, period. Skipped the Nikkormat EL, it would not work without its battery. The next camera, an FG and F1.8 lens (non E), leaked light, about like his EM.
My favorite, the F3 leaked light. Since the F3 leaked light and the other Nikon's the FA, FE, did not have batteries in them, we skipped them. I would tend to thing that the more modern Nikon leak light.
So, they do leak light although it’s never been a problem in the 30 plus years that I have used Nikon. I have flown, as a passenger in small aircraft taking pictures with the F3, lots of times and mostly sunny days and its never been a problem.
However, leaking light and getting on the film may not be related. My observations are the light would have to make a right turn or reflect off of something in order to get to the film. With the mirror up, everything inside is anti-reflective flat black. Unless proven otherwise, I don’t think the light leak is the problem.
I suggested to Greg that he test the camera & lens in total darkness except for the LED held up against the spot where the light leaks from. Hold the shutter open for a maybe 30 seconds and then develop and inspect the negatives. I think this will show whether the light leak can get on the negative or not. If not, the problem is elsewhere.
Will have to wait and see for the results. I also gave Greg an extra lens shade since it seemed that he would need this in any case.
Nice fellow and nice to have another APUG in the neighborhood.