Nikon EM problem on this single frame.. shutter issue?
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Wait, does EM have a vertical shutter? Then forget what I said, light leak or maybe a bizarre flare characteristic.
OP
OP
I just looked at the camera.
Yes, "clean" vertical shutter, that seem to work, on the "90", "AUTO" and "B" settings.
This one shot of spouse getting ice cream was the first shot after a long walk outside, so possibly tiny light leak becoming more obvious as film sits in same position?
Needs new light seals.
OP
OP
Indeed, hinge side seal looks pretty bad, with some seal gunk stuck on body frame.
Other side seems to be a very clean labyrinth-type metal seal, no problem there...unless the latching is not quite firm?
You'd feel it if it was loose enough to cause that problem. It'll be the hinge side seals.
A shame, a Nikon that needs seals. The earlier ones and most of the high end ones don't leak even when the seals are gone, as a rule. FTN, F2...
Technically the shutter did have a horizontal path when that image was exposed
OP
OP
Film cassette leak?
My cassette may have sat a bit before developing.
There is a second frame with a weaker effect, possibly rolled "under" the frame illustrated.
I need to check film type and make.
Other: (home) processing misstep?
My cassette may have sat a bit before developing.
There is a second frame with a weaker effect, possibly rolled "under" the frame illustrated.
I need to check film type and make.
Other: (home) processing misstep?
It's possible.. Often you would see three or more such errors at regular intervals along the film. The cassette.... Did it sit in sunlight with the leader sticking out?
It is almost certainly a light leak.
Can you post a photo of the whole negative?
Can you post a photo of the whole negative?
Yes... I is a light leak...
The light leak is in probably at the left side of the back door. You pressed the back of the camera with your left thumb as you were rotating the film advancing lever.
That pressure in the middle of the door separated a bit the left side of the door from the body. The strong white line got more light as time pased since you made the pressure until you started winding, as film moved it got fogged as it passed under the line of light projected. This is the direction it moved as the image is inverted on film. When you shot the frame the exposure from the light leak had happened yet.
It is way less probable that the like leak is in the hinge side of the back door, but also check it. Make pressure in the middle of the backdoor to see if some clearance appears.
It could also happen that the door was not well closed... specially if this one was the first frame.
So on a doubt replace the light seals and check the back door when you can, for the moment try to not make pressure with your thumb in the back door when when advancing film.
Search this at Ebay:
NIKON EM CAMERA PRE-CUT LIGHT SEAL FOAM KIT MIRROR, DOOR & GROOVE SHEET
You can also buy light sealing foam and cutting it on your own.
The light leak is in probably at the left side of the back door. You pressed the back of the camera with your left thumb as you were rotating the film advancing lever.
That pressure in the middle of the door separated a bit the left side of the door from the body. The strong white line got more light as time pased since you made the pressure until you started winding, as film moved it got fogged as it passed under the line of light projected. This is the direction it moved as the image is inverted on film. When you shot the frame the exposure from the light leak had happened yet.
It is way less probable that the like leak is in the hinge side of the back door, but also check it. Make pressure in the middle of the backdoor to see if some clearance appears.
It could also happen that the door was not well closed... specially if this one was the first frame.
So on a doubt replace the light seals and check the back door when you can, for the moment try to not make pressure with your thumb in the back door when when advancing film.
Search this at Ebay:
NIKON EM CAMERA PRE-CUT LIGHT SEAL FOAM KIT MIRROR, DOOR & GROOVE SHEET
You can also buy light sealing foam and cutting it on your own.
Last edited:
OP
OP
^^ very good.. and makes sense after more careful review:
- found more instances of the problem, some more pronounced (due to my handling!)
- extends into the sprocket area (not a shutter issue)
- all indoor, unrushed shots are fine (no hasty, or rough reloading!)
- all problematic shots are outdoors street photography while walking (excess squeeze. upsetting weak seals!)
I shall work on the seals and retest. This was my first roll ever, with this discarded camera - prior owner probably gave up.
- found more instances of the problem, some more pronounced (due to my handling!)
- extends into the sprocket area (not a shutter issue)
- all indoor, unrushed shots are fine (no hasty, or rough reloading!)
- all problematic shots are outdoors street photography while walking (excess squeeze. upsetting weak seals!)
I shall work on the seals and retest. This was my first roll ever, with this discarded camera - prior owner probably gave up.
Excellent!
These are very nice cameras. It would be such a shame to give up if it just needed light tights and perhaps a little routine maintenance.
Is this a shutter problem?
We'd need to see the width of the film. Probably not a shutter problem given the vertical-travel shutter, but just the same, it'd be helpful to know if that defect in the photo goes all the way out to the edges (sprockets) of the film. If so, it's probably a little light leak near the door.
I have a Sears (Ricoh) camera with a similar issue, and it's fine so long as I don't let film sit in it for a long time. If I load it up, I just have to remember to keep it moving and shoot the roll in a day. Putting it in a leather case will probably alleviate the problem as well. Light seals would, of course, be a more permanent fix.
Aaron
OP
OP
Update: or the body "channels", I ended up using cotton yarn that i bought at a thrift shop months ago after reading about it, easy install, seats itself into the old glue remnants.
then, some craft store thin foam for the hinge side. A little stiff right, we will see how it works.
Now I taking a good look at my other cameras of seal condition.
A Yashica TLR showed a very light side seal leak on its initial test roll.
You may test it by loading a high (400) speed film roll and then use set f/22 and 1/1000, shot 1 frames with the lens cap in place, then place the camera under sunlight and make force at the door (pull, push, twist) with all camera positions under the sun for several minutes, then shot an additional unexposed frame, like the first one. When you develop the roll you will see if a leak is there...
OP
OP
^^
Great method, should almost become routine procedure when initial testing an unknown older camera!
Great method, should almost become routine procedure when initial testing an unknown older camera!
A few weeks ago, on a stroll, with a Nikon EM I got at a yard sale.
Is this a shutter problem?
Clearly, NO, because it has a vertical shutter.
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