Nikon 9000: retrieved TIFF files have more grain

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xisbrat

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I am not sure what is going on with my scanner or scanning technique, and am hoping someone can explain it to me.

I scan 120 6x6 B&W film (Acros 100) on a Nikon 9000 scanner, using Nikon Scan 4, with all customization options turned off, scan resolution at 2400 ppi. I am very pleased with the results. I then save it to a TIFF file. If I then pull up that same TIFF file, the image looks much worse, with noticable grain (especially in the expansive sky areas of the image). Even the curve the displays in the Scan 4 toolkit looks quite different: almost as if the dynamic range was truncated (does not extend as high on the graph).

This also happens with JPEG files, but I first starting noticing it with TIFF files, which is my default image type.

Can someone explain why images from the retrieved TIFF files do not exactly match the image and curve when originally scanned and saved? I do not do anything with the scanned image (e.g., apply contrast, USM, etc.) other than to save it to disk.

Thanks for your advice and comment,
Tennis
 

pellicle

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Hi

xisbrat;9061I then save it to a TIFF file. If I then pull up that same TIFF file said:
what 'magnification' are you looking at it on the screen? I've sometimes found when I scann 4x5 at 2400dpi that when viewing at some 'magnifications' (like 33% for example on one image) that skies look worse then zoomed in to 50%. I suspect its just an interpolation / display issue to find a fast algorithm for quick display.

does it seem such as more even multiples like 50%
 
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xisbrat

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Thanks for the advice. Here's my replies:

Make sure you are not asking for compression when you set the TIFF options.

There is no option in Nikon Scan4 to compress TIFF files. I thought that was a TIFF characteristic, and that's why I'm saving as TIFF.

Hi
what 'magnification' are you looking at it on the screen?
does it seem such as more even multiples like 50%

I see it at all magnifications. It default to 16% in my Scan 4 viewer when I do the scan, and the quality of the image doesn't change when I up the magnification to 50 or 100 or 200%. This holds true if that is referring to the original scan (i.e., always grainless), or to the recalled TIFF image (i.e., grain always very noticeable)
 

pellicle

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Hi

I see it at all magnifications. It default to 16% in my Scan 4 viewer when I do the scan, and the quality of the image doesn't change when I up the magnification to 50 or 100 or 200%. This holds true if that is referring to the original scan (i.e., always grainless), or to the recalled TIFF image (i.e., grain always very noticeable)

is this colour negative? I've found that when biasing exposure for shadows (C-41 film) that the dense areas (especially of blue channel) can be very hard to get free of noise. I put this page up, which talks about my recent exploration of this with my Epson. I do not have my nikon here with me in Finland to test how it works.

Essentially the issue I've found is that when using the software the negative scanning side of it is less controlable than using the positive side. Cllearly I then need to invert and put curves on things in Photoshop (which adds time) but it gives better control.

Alternatively if you use the negative side and separately adjust the levels for each of the R G and B you can avoid clipping which seems to occur when the software sets its black and white points. Eg

colourNegVersion.jpg


I've discussed this topic (with reference to my Epson) here.

The dense areas of negative can be denser than you suspected (I've done some densitometry using a Stouffer stepwedge on my epson and found that Negative is every bit as dense (unlike black and white). I suggest you try looking at the data using the methods I used for that article.

I'd be keen to know how it went.
 

pellicle

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I see it at all magnifications. It default to 16% in my Scan 4 viewer when I do the scan, and the quality of the image doesn't change when I up the magnification to 50 or 100 or 200%.

ok ... anything like this?

3235460251_e9ee4f0b66_o.jpg


this is from negative
 
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Nikon Scan is a dead horse. Nikon Europe informed officially that it won't be
developed further (bad news for mac users, because several functions don't work on a new mac. But good for VueScan!).

Nikon Scan is a sub optimal software for perfect scans. Try VueScan ( http://www.hamrick.com ). It's available as a demo and will only add some watermarks into the saved images, but purchasing it will unlock it.

Grain: don't panic if you can see grain on your screen - if you will print it, the grain will be gone. Well, most of it :D
 

MikeSeb

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Nikon Scan is a dead horse. Nikon Europe informed officially that it won't be
developed further (bad news for mac users, because several functions don't work on a new mac. But good for VueScan!).

Nikon Scan is a sub optimal software for perfect scans. Try VueScan ( http://www.hamrick.com ).

I've used Nikon Scan for five years with very good results. The interface is basic, but functional.

I am not sure why everyone is so in love with VueScan. I have it and have used it; it's nearly unusable for scanning strips of film in a Nikon film scanner. The interface is a clunky mess, and the documentation is awful. It doesn't seem to be able to do what Nikon Scan can do easily and well: allow the insertion of a strip of negatives; quick thumbnail scans automatically sensing the difference between exposed film and border areas between frames; preview scanning and cropping; then final scan of all images on a strip.

Maybe this can easily be done with VueScan; you'd never find out how in the hideously bad documentation available with it.
 
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Mike, we constantly scan 35mm on the LS 5000 and MF on the LS 9000 with VueScan. Strips, single slides, 6x8 and 6x9 two in a row - no problem here. Even the MF is running perfectly because you can define the frame spacing. We've created different *.ini files for each format, just load the according one and scan. On the LS 5000 it's even simpler - just insert the strip and hit preview and then scan, with different crops, vertical, horizontal - you name it.

VueScan is far better in the shadow details than Nikon Scan. The ICE works like a charm, and the scanners run faster than with Nikon Scan.
 
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xisbrat

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Crop of image grain

ok ... anything like this?

3235460251_e9ee4f0b66_o.jpg


this is from negative

Hi Pellicle. I enjoyed your articles, and will explore them further once I get past this issue.

I am sending a crop of the image to give everyone an idea of the grain that is showing up. Let me first say that I am not complaining about excessive grain: I know that there are many techniques to reduce grain, both on the analog side and the digital side. My issue is that it appears I lose image quality once I save the image to disk (saving as TIFF). The curve that Nikon Scan displays as a result of the scan is quite different than the curve Nikon Scan displays when retrieving the saved file: the peaks of the curve on the retrieved file are about 5-10% shorter (especially on the right side of the graph. I though TIFFs were lossless, so I was surprised to see that behavior.

So my concern is that if I scan a negative, and get it exactly the way I want it to appear, and then save it, I am disappointed when I retrieve it one second later. ("One" second to emphasize that nothing has changed in Nikon Scan.) The retrieved image is visibly a lower quality image, and has visible grain. I don't think that would be tolerable in anyone's workstream.

From those symptoms, it would appear that might be something wrong with the process of saving TIFF files, either in Nikon Scan, or in my OS (MAC OSX) The same kind of behavior happens when saving to JPEG, but I thought TIFF was a standard file type to preserve highest quality. Should I save it as NEF? I haven't tried that, but NEF creates issues, as Nikon Capture doesn't take NEF files from Nikon Scan. (right....huh?)

Does this information change the dialog any?

Thanks
Tennis
 

donbga

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Hi Pellicle. I enjoyed your articles, and will explore them further once I get past this issue.

I am sending a crop of the image to give everyone an idea of the grain that is showing up. Let me first say that I am not complaining about excessive grain: I know that there are many techniques to reduce grain, both on the analog side and the digital side. My issue is that it appears I lose image quality once I save the image to disk (saving as TIFF). The curve that Nikon Scan displays as a result of the scan is quite different than the curve Nikon Scan displays when retrieving the saved file: the peaks of the curve on the retrieved file are about 5-10% shorter (especially on the right side of the graph. I though TIFFs were lossless, so I was surprised to see that behavior.

So my concern is that if I scan a negative, and get it exactly the way I want it to appear, and then save it, I am disappointed when I retrieve it one second later. ("One" second to emphasize that nothing has changed in Nikon Scan.) The retrieved image is visibly a lower quality image, and has visible grain. I don't think that would be tolerable in anyone's workstream.

From those symptoms, it would appear that might be something wrong with the process of saving TIFF files, either in Nikon Scan, or in my OS (MAC OSX) The same kind of behavior happens when saving to JPEG, but I thought TIFF was a standard file type to preserve highest quality. Should I save it as NEF? I haven't tried that, but NEF creates issues, as Nikon Capture doesn't take NEF files from Nikon Scan. (right....huh?)

Does this information change the dialog any?

Thanks
Tennis

I would say that you need to add some capture sharpening to your image based on your image crop.

Don Bryant
 

pellicle

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Hi Pellicle. I enjoyed your articles, and will explore them further once I get past this issue.

glad someone else finds relevance to them :smile:

I am sending a crop of the image to give everyone an idea of the grain that is showing up.

looks consistent with everything I see ... its also worth pointing out that grain appearing at that level (viewed at 100% or pixel = pixel) will no doubt be invisible on a 300dpi print (those dots tend to merge a little or something like that as even with my nose 20cm from a 70cm wide print I don't see it the same way I do on the screen).


Let me first say that I am not complaining about excessive grain:

ok ...

My issue is that it appears I lose image quality once I save the image to disk (saving as TIFF).

is any sharpening happening in Nikonscan? I know that it can do that, which will be applied post preview window ... Also do not rely on that window being WHAT YOU WILL GET. in every way and in every sence. For instance it is not colour profile away ...


I though TIFFs were lossless, so I was surprised to see that behavior.

they are ... your saying this suggests to me that you are unclear on this aspect of technology. A tiff is a container, nothing more. You can put into that container exactly what you want.

Eg:

TIFF is a flexible, adaptable file format for handling images and data within a single file, by including the header tags (size, definition, image-data arrangement, applied image compression) defining the image's geometry. For example, a TIFF file can be a container holding compressed JPEG and RLE (run-length encoding) images. A TIFF file also can include a vector-based Clipping path (outlines, croppings, image frames). The ability to store image data in a lossless format makes a TIFF file a useful image archive, because, unlike standard JPEG files, a TIFF file using lossless compression (or none) may be edited and re-saved without losing image quality; other TIFF options are layers and pages.

an image is just like a document. so you can open save reopen save a text file ad infinitum with no changes exactly the bytes in memory will be written back. The same is true with a zip file (compression which can be used in a TIFF or even upon a BMP (although LHZ is often used as the compression in a TIFF.

JPG is different ... substantially : because it is compressed in a way which is and was never intended to be a two way process. JPG compression is meant to be a one way street. When you compress it it is done in such a way as to maximize reducitons even if some loss occurs. The principle is that this loss will be imperceptible to a human viewer (or perhaps not) rather than be mathematically reversible. When you reopen it it is not what you started with. For instance each of the pixels may be the same but chrominance compression may have occured ... or even luminance compression ... maybe both!



I am disappointed when I retrieve it one second later. ("One" second to emphasize that nothing has changed in Nikon Scan.)


perhaps I have addressed this in the point above about the sharpening in Nikon scan ... I believe that it is in the tools pallet under unsharp mask.



Should I save it as NEF? I haven't tried that, but NEF creates issues, as Nikon Capture doesn't take NEF files from Nikon Scan. (right....huh?)


I think at this point you are sounding completely confused by file types and what they do. There is no magic in them, and I understood NEF (my Nikon digital camera saves RAW images as NEF) is only a container of propritary nature. Just like DNG can also be use to store data.

This question came up recently on Photo.net and was answerd well in this post.

There's really no benefit to DNG in this workflow, the files are from a trilinear, true RGB output referred capture device.

Its not Raw data. Yes, you could in theory take a DNG from a scan and a TIFF and apply metadata instructions in LR or ACR to either. But that's already rendered pixel data. The DNG doesn't make it non demosaiced Raw data and in a way, that's good (its not interpolated color, its real RGB color).
The place to do the big tone and color work is in the scanner driver. That's your Raw processor. The container, DNG or TIFF is immaterial. There's nothing a scan in a DNG brings to the party you can't do with a TIFF.
An over dark scan should be corrected at the scan stage.

try the above suggestion (of mine) and see how it goes. FWIW I got a scan back of one of my 6x9 negatives from a friend and it looked like this attachment. I don't think this is any issue as a 4000 dpi scan is (when printed at 300dpi) a x13 enlargment. I think that a meter wide print from my Bessa RF camera is significantly greater than I'll consider doing ;-)
 

pellicle

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Hi

I forgot to address this point:


The curve that Nikon Scan displays as a result of the scan is quite different than the curve Nikon Scan displays when retrieving the saved file: the peaks of the curve on the retrieved file are about 5-10% shorter (especially on the right side of the graph.

I feel you are getting terms mixed up ... do you mean the levels in the histogram? The histogram adjustment has both an input and an output level, I'm sorry but not having my nikon scanner here I can not start Nikonscan to show you on that, but on the Epson (which is similar) it is like this:



notice that there is both an input and an output line under the histogram? (hopefully that image links properly to a larger version from my blog) So in the case of that figure above I have specifically set my outputs to 0 and 255. This sets the levels of input to the levels of output. My scanner defaults to 10 and 245 which will result in the histogram having a blank set of data left and right when I open it in photoshop.

Note also that this remapping of the numbers can be linear or have a "curve" applied to it that is the number that exists in the middle of the input levels (1.00 in my case). Changing this will apply a curve (or gamma) to its mapping process. This is different to where you set the start and end points to.
 

pellicle

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Hi

I am not sure why everyone is so in love with VueScan. I have it and have used it; it's nearly unusable for scanning strips of film in a Nikon film scanner. The interface is a clunky mess, and the documentation is awful.

here here!

I've struggled with evaluation versions at least 4 times (since 2001 version 7.something) and I just CAN NOT grasp it. I find this weird as I'm a software engineer and work comfortably on command line OS's like Solaris and RHEL. Its just got to be the most confusing and frustrating interface I've ever tried to tackle.

I hear so much about it (super advanced workflow this and that) that I truly want to be able to work with ti ... perhaps its just a mindset that I can't grasp but I can't even get the curves tool working properly (can't move the sliders around even).

so I ignore it after spending a few days with it.
 

pellicle

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pellicle, I don't know what you are doing, but check this review:

http://www.photographycorner.com/product-reviews/software/vuescan-hamrick-software

These are no software engineers, just people who install and use it, and obviously VueScan is working for them perfectly.

bewdy ... well if I use it in the same manner as the dumbo mode of Epson's scanner software it works equally. If I wish to drive it more it becomes a trial and I don't know how to do things. I only mentioned my work life to perhaps suggest I'm not a lost and flapping user without any idea how to plug a device into a USB port.

I didn't see much there to help me with my struggle to use the stuff either
 

pellicle

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But ... if I was doing something like you mention here (in another subject)

Just connect the LS 5000 to your computer, start the software (disable the ICE option for B&W) and scan. It's straightforward, really. The only accessory you'll ever need is a slide feeder if you want to scan 99 framed/mounted slides as a batch.

I think that definitely this is a distinct advantage as I think that Nikonscan can not do this on its own.
 
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