nikkormat replacement of foam seal

[pollux]

Hi, if someone is in the UK can you tell me your experience with fixation? I was quoted a five week turn around time to replace the foam seal on the door of my nikkormat ft3. The price is reasonable though.

 

[brucemuir]

Can you do it yourself?
There are soooo many threads here explaining the process and it really is easy, even your first time.

Spring will be gone by the time your mat gets back.

 

[pollux]

This is a showroom condition nikkormat, so is suffering from underuse. When I pull the winder to switch on the meter, the needle jumps to the + This might be due to the actual light reading. What are the signs the meter is jumpy, and needs recalibrating? I think it's best to get a CLA.

 

[brucemuir]

Ohh its the "FT3"…that has Cds cells correct?

I would go ahead and get the tuneup…I thought it ONLY needed door foam.
With a proper cla you'll get new mirror bumper also.

 

[pollux]

These nikkormats are turning out to be a misnomer. Since the needle jumps to + when I cock the shutter I think the resistor is gone and not the meter itself, which is an easy replace. Agree? Disagree?

 

[pollux]

I have gone to sendean cameras in soho to get a full CLA on the camera, calibration of the cds meter, and replacement of the light seals. I had a bad experience at fixation, where I was told the lightmeter was responding correctly to light.

It's either this, or try for a 3rd ft3 at Grays of Westminster.

The ft3 I bought is in mint condition.

 

[freecom2]

Contact Miles Whitehead instead. He offers very reasonable prices on repairs and CLAs, and does top work. I have had a Pentax MX to him for a CLA and a Nikon FE which needed calibrating and CLA, both of which he did to an excellent standard. Should be quicker turnaround as well (although ask him, because obviously it depends month by month).

 

[pollux]

I have already handed it to sendean. Is there any reason to avoid sendean, as work has not started on it? Thanks for a UK perspective on this.

 

[gorbas]

Nikkormat's FT3 usually have "jumpy"meter needle, going all the way up and down but eventually settling down on centre with correct exposure, but with practice it's easy to overcome. For years I used to shoot color slides with FT-3 and never had problem with correct TTL exposure's. It's condition impossible to fix due to sliding graphite contact inside meter mechanism.

 

[pollux]

The camera came with the original ft3 manual, and a nikon guide to photography, and the original lens cap!

 

[freecom2]

I have already handed it to sendean. Is there any reason to avoid sendean, as work has not started on it? Thanks for a UK perspective on this.

Nothing in particular, although the amount they quoted me for my MX CLA was rather expensive! :munch:

 

[CGW]

Any chance the F2 maestro, Sover Wong, could help out? Worth a try.

 

[Leigh Youdale]

I only have the earlier Nikkormat FTn. Can't comment on the meter issue as mine runs perfectly off SR44 batteries now I've fitted the conversion piece that allows it after the mercury 625 batteries became unobtainable. (Well I still have two I got in China, but I've made the conversion anyway.)

I recently replaced all the door seals and the mirror damping pad in both my bodies with the precut kits obtainable from John Goodman. The only required extra was to get some Surgical spirit and a packet of cotton buds. Comes with full illustrated instructions and covers the FT3. John used to sell off EBay as "Interslice" but I think he doesn't do that any more. If your camera needs seals, contact Jon at 'JGood21967@aol.com'. He's based in Dallas, texas, but his service (and product) is very good.

 

[brucemuir]

OP mentions jumpiness when shutter is cocked,
is'nt there a switch that turns on the meter when the advance arm reaches a specific angle.

Maybe that switch is twitchy.

 

[tron_]

See my thread, it might be of assistance:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)