Interesting. So no mods needed. Thats awesome! Is it possible someone installed a diode previous to you acquiring the camera?
My SRT is unmodified, but don't take my word for it. Your camera, for some unknown reason might be different.
Also, I only read a gray card. The readings might be different under different metering situations, different batteries, different temperatures, etc. -- I can't test them all.
Like I said, just compare your meter's reading to the sunny f-16 rule. That's pretty simple. If your camera is "close enough" to what you should get -- Fuhgeddaboudit
If you are going to check function with a different battery, you need to do so at a reasonably wide range of light levels, and a reasonably wide range of discharge status' of the battery.
Battery incompatibility often results in a lack of linearity, even if the incompatible battery works correctly in some circumstances.
The wrong battery can give you results similar to having a speedometer in a car that is set up wrongly. The correct speed in some circumstances, and speeding tickets in others.
Interesting. So no mods needed. Thats awesome! Is it possible someone installed a diode previous to you acquiring the camera?
I wouldn't recommend any mod nor using expensive substitute like Wein cell, Zin cell etc... Just use the alkaline. If it not good then simply don't use the meter.
Whats wrong with the diode mod?
The diode mod depends on the battery voltage to be a constant 1.5V which it's not.
My understanding from the posts above is that the diode allows no more than 1.35v no matter if its a fresh 1.5 or not. Am i wrong?
If the battery is 1.55V or less then the output voltage would not be more than 1.35V. But it's not 1.35V. When the silver oxide battery is fresh the voltage is 1.55V and the output is 1.35V. When it runs down a bit it's 1.5V and the output is 1.3V and when it run down further the voltage is going to get lower and and the output voltage is lower. The meter that depends on a constant 1.35V to function correctly won't maintain its accuracy when the voltage drops. The mercury battery was used not because of the 1.35V. They can make the circuit to function at higher voltage. What they need was the fact that the mercury battery voltage stays at 1.35V for almost all of its useful life. There is no other kind of battery that can do that except with a regulator. The diode won't do it.
I see. I misunderstood. I thought the Diode limited voltage to 1.35v not reduced whatever voltage by .15v. Wouldnt the same problem exist with cameras that take 1.5v batteries? The battery voltage gets lower and lower. I mean thats what the bat test mode is for. To see if the needle still goes in the black box. If it doesnt, just replace the battery. Or do those cameras work accurately within a range of voltage whereas the SRT only works properly with exactly 1.35v? I wish there was something that could be soldered in that acts as a limiter like in audio. A high limit of 1.35v, then you could use a 1.5 and the voltage would stay constant at 1.35v until the 1.5v gets run down to 1.35. That could take a while and would provide good longevity. What do you think ? is there any such high voltage limiter component that could be soldered in line?
I see. I misunderstood. I thought the Diode limited voltage to 1.35v not reduced whatever voltage by .15v. Wouldnt the same problem exist with cameras that take 1.5v batteries? The battery voltage gets lower and lower. I mean thats what the bat test mode is for. To see if the needle still goes in the black box. If it doesnt, just replace the battery. Or do those cameras work accurately within a range of voltage whereas the SRT only works properly with exactly 1.35v? I wish there was something that could be soldered in that acts as a limiter like in audio. A high limit of 1.35v, then you could use a 1.5 and the voltage would stay constant at 1.35v until the 1.5v gets run down to 1.35. That could take a while and would provide good longevity. What do you think ? is there any such high voltage limiter component that could be soldered in line?
You can avoid the battery issues by getting a Nikkormat FT3.
Its only .15v difference? Does it really matter? And so long as the meter test shows in the black box isnt thar proof that the camera is ok with the supplied voltage of the 1.5?
As I wrote in Post #76:
"I only read a gray card. The readings might be different under different metering situations, different batteries, different temperatures, etc. -- I can't test them all.
Like I said, just compare your meter's reading to the sunny f-16 rule. That's pretty simple. If your camera is "close enough" to what you should get -- Fuhgeddaboudit"
You said the SRT matches your other cameras. So what's to worry about?
Someone said it might match my other cameras like even a broken clock is right twice a day. Just dont want a false sense of certainty especially with so many in there warning that a 1.5v battery that loses voltage over its life will not make the meter work as designed. Should I put the diode in or not? Should I source a genuine mercury battery? Should I carry a light meter? Should I carry my Nikon FE to meter? Because Film is getting expensive, I hate to waste it because the meter is unpredictable or always changing. and what about these adapters that have some kind of resistor in them or something.. are they any good?
Someone said it might match my other cameras like even a broken clock is right twice a day. Just dont want a false sense of certainty especially with so many in there warning that a 1.5v battery that loses voltage over its life will not make the meter work as designed. Should I put the diode in or not? Should I source a genuine mercury battery? Should I carry a light meter? Should I carry my Nikon FE to meter? Because Film is getting expensive, I hate to waste it because the meter is unpredictable or always changing. and what about these adapters that have some kind of resistor in them or something.. are they any good?
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