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Nikkormat FT3 shutter stuck open

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logan2z

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I haven't used my FT3 for a while so thought I'd grab it off the shelf and fire the shutter a few times. I fired the shutter once and went to re-cock it, but the advance lever won't move very far and now the shutter is stuck open and the shutter release button does nothing. Not sure if there's something I can do to reset it or if it needs to be looked at by a service tech.

Does anyone have a quick fix for this?
 
Last edited:
Did you try changing the shutter speed? Moving the ring may be enough to get things moving.
 
logan2z said:
Not sure if there's something I can do to reset it or if it needs to be looked at by a service tech.
Click to expand...

Most SLRs have all the important and frequently stuck components right underneath the bottom plate. It's probably worth doing a trawl of the internet for videos or explanations of how to fix this problem, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was an easy fix. I've had numerous Nikons where a little lube did the job with no more than taking off the bottom plate, fingers crossed yours is the same.
 
I would still try whacking the bottom plate firmly but gently. I've had motorized Hasselblads that I've had to reach in and help the mirror down. Got them going again with movie film cleaner (solvent)
 
logan2z said:
Could be. Any way to safely release it?
Click to expand...

Try using a toothpick at the front edge of the mirror. Just gently and don’t try to pry it loose. If it’s just stuck to the foam, it should pop down. If that doesn’t do the trick, then it may be time for professional help.
 
IMO: it is likely that the shutter mechanism is sticking, failing to release the second curtain, so that the cycle is hung before the mirror comes down. Sometimes this happens on the slow speeds, if the slow speed timer is a little dirty/sticky, and you can release it by turning the shutter dial to the fast speeds. It is also faintly possible that the curtain is jammed by a bit of crud (like a piece of film) stuck in the shutter path. The proper cure would be a CLA; sometimes it's possible to clean the sticky mechanism without taking the whole thing apart if you feel lucky.

The shutter curtain should close before the mirror comes down, for obvious reasons. I don't think a stuck-up mirror would prevent the second curtain from closing. I have rarely seen, on my cameras, where gummy mirror foam actually prevented the mirror from coming down; it seems more likely to be a symptom than a cause.
 
Get a CLA before playing with it, drives up the repair costs.
 
Thanks all.

The camera is in mint shape (cosmetically, at least) so I'm reluctant to monkey around with it too much and make matters worse.

Can anyone recommend a good tech to service it? I've never needed to service a Nikon SLR before so don't have any experience with Nikon techs.
 
reddesert said:
IMO: it is likely that the shutter mechanism is sticking, failing to release the second curtain, so that the cycle is hung before the mirror comes down. Sometimes this happens on the slow speeds, if the slow speed timer is a little dirty/sticky, and you can release it by turning the shutter dial to the fast speeds. It is also faintly possible that the curtain is jammed by a bit of crud (like a piece of film) stuck in the shutter path. The proper cure would be a CLA; sometimes it's possible to clean the sticky mechanism without taking the whole thing apart if you feel lucky.

The shutter curtain should close before the mirror comes down, for obvious reasons. I don't think a stuck-up mirror would prevent the second curtain from closing. I have rarely seen, on my cameras, where gummy mirror foam actually prevented the mirror from coming down; it seems more likely to be a symptom than a cause.
Click to expand...

It’s a metal vertical travel shutter.
 
Sticking ones finger in the shutter to get it loosened up will be a great way to destroy the shutter. Keep fingers off the shutter.
 
Huss said:
It’s a metal vertical travel shutter.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was sloppy in saying "second curtain," but if I'd said closing set of blades, it would have all been correct. I do have a box of Nikkormats, most of which work (Nikkormats are very durable), but a few have problems like I described, for example sticking open at the slowest speeds, where moving the shutter dial to a faster speed will usually close the shutter.

Typically the mechanical chain is such that the mirror goes up, then allowing the shutter to open, then the shutter closes, triggering the mirror to go down. The Nikkormat has mirror lockup, so there has to be a mechanical action that closes the blades even if the MLU is engaged and the mirror is physically up.

Here is a little experiment to show that the Nikkormat mirror being up does not cause the shutter to hang open. Put the camera on B, no lens, no mirror lock-up and DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU ARE VERY CAREFUL. Fire and hold the shutter and while the mirror is up, put your finger gently on the front edge of the mirror to hold it up. Let go the shutter release and the shutter will close even though you are holding the mirror up. You can even do this on 1 sec instead of B if you are fast. Anyway, that's why I don't think sticky foam is an issue here. The problem is a sticky or out of sync shutter mechanism.

I agree with Sirius that putting your finger on a shutter or in the path of a shutter is a good way to wreck it.
 
We are getting to the point where all mechanical cameras are of the age that simply replacing it with another body is rapidly becoming an exercise of diminishing returns.

Yes, you can get lucky, but if the camera is one you know you would use as a primary camera for an extended period, it's worth the expense of having it CLA'd and brought back to spec for the long run.

Just my 2 cents...
 
Kino said:
We are getting to the point where all mechanical cameras are of the age that simply replacing it with another body is rapidly becoming an exercise of diminishing returns.

Yes, you can get lucky, but if the camera is one you know you would use as a primary camera for an extended period, it's worth the expense of having it CLA'd and brought back to spec for the long run.

Just my 2 cents...
Click to expand...

Agreed. I have no problem spending a bit of money to repair the camera - in the grand scheme of things, these mechanical SLRs are pretty inexpensive.

The FT3 is not my main camera, but I like it and do use it on occasion. If I'm going to own it I'd like it to be in good working order, so if it requires spending a few bucks to get it back to that state then so be it.
 
logan2z said:
Thanks for the recommendation. Maybe I'm out of touch with reality, but $225+ to service a Nikkormat seems quite high.
Click to expand...

On the good side, the camera will be basically brand-new, when it comes back, and you'll likely never have worry about maintenance again.
 
MultiFormat Shooter said:
On the good side, the camera will be basically brand-new, when it comes back, and you'll likely never have worry about maintenance again.
Click to expand...

No doubt that's true, but that gave me a bit of sticker shock. Maybe that's just the going rate, I haven't had estimates from any other repairers yet.
 
Repairing a Nikkormat, F2, Pentax etc - all will cost the same hourly rate. So if taking your camera apart, fixing it, putting it back together takes four hours - that cost will be the same whether it is a $50 camera or a $1000 camera.
 
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