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Nikkormat Ft2 vs Ft3, what is the difference, they look identical...

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harlequin

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Hello Team,

Is there a major difference, appreciate opinions
Is one more durable than the other?

I have an old Nikkormat Ftn however the meter crapped out and I am thinking of getting a newer model relatively speaking.

Thanks for your input!

Harlequin
 

BradS

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The FT3 takes the newer AI lenses only. The FT-2 is pre-AI
 

Huss

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To be precise, the FT2 can use non AI and AI lenses, the FT3 only AI/AI-S lenses.
 

BradS

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^^^yes,correct. @Huss ’s answer is much better than the one I offered. Thanks. :smile:
 

SchwinnParamount

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FT 2
FT 3

The FT3 was essentially identical to the FT2 except that it supported Nikkor lenses with the Automatic Indexing (AI) feature (introduced 1977).
 

SchwinnParamount

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The EL and EL-2 allowed you to flip up the AI tab on the body to mount a pre-AI lens. I love the EL 2.
 

Huss

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..

I have an old Nikkormat Ftn however the meter crapped out and I am thinking of getting a newer model relatively speaking.

Thanks for your input!

Harlequin


If you're looking for a gorgeous, with working meter, black FT2... comes with the Buttergrip! (lens extra - check out that awesome Gothic font lens hood!)


 

SchwinnParamount

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Note that in this picture ^^^ the FT 2 has that proboscus that fits into the "ears" of the pre-AI lens. The FT-3 did not have that thing. It relied on the tab on the lens mount (body side) that engaged with the AI flange of the lens.
 

Trask

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With the FT3, it’s possible to mount and open-aperture meter with AI or AI-S lenses, and it’s also possible to flip up the connector on the AI/AI-S matering ring around the lens mount so that non-AI lenses can be mounted and used, albeit with stop-down metering. So the FT3 is backwards-compatible.
 

Huss

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With the FT3, it’s possible to mount and open-aperture meter with AI or AI-S lenses, and it’s also possible to flip up the connector on the AI/AI-S matering ring around the lens mount so that non-AI lenses can be mounted and used, albeit with stop-down metering. So the FT3 is backwards-compatible.

That's what makes the FT2 so great, it meters non AI and AI lenses without having to stop down meter.
 

BradS

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The down side of the FT2 is that one must do the Nikon shuffle every time a lens is mounted. The FT3 frees one from doing this dance. In general, this is the major benefit of the Nikon AI system - quick, easy, and fool proof lens mounting.
 
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Huss

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The down side of the FT2 is that one must do the Nikon shuffle every time a lens is mounted. The FT3 frees one from doing this quick dance. In general, this is the major benefit of the Nikon AI system - quick, easy, and fool proof lens mounting.

Definitely a waste of 2 seconds.
All kidding aside, I prefer the automatic indexing system, it's just nice to have a camera than can open aperture meter with old and 'new' lenses, when I already have other Nikon cameras that have auto indexing.
I picked the FT2 over the FT3 because it had that, and over the older ones because it had improved features (focusing screen, modern battery etc). A 'regular' Nikon like an FM is an easier shooter, with a more sensitive and useful light meter.
When you use a camera with a modern light meter, it is a bit jarring seeing the Nikkormat's needle pop to the top of the scale because the light levels have exceeded its performance envelope.
 

multivoiced

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I was about to order an FT3 until I saw this comment.

A 'regular' Nikon like an FM is an easier shooter, with a more sensitive and useful light meter.
When you use a camera with a modern light meter, it is a bit jarring seeing the Nikkormat's needle pop to the top of the scale because the light levels have exceeded its performance envelope
 

Chan Tran

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That's what makes the FT2 so great, it meters non AI and AI lenses without having to stop down meter.

Yes but you have to do the pre-AI dance routine whenever you mount the lens and regardless whether the lens is Pre-AI or AI.
 

rulnacco

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Yes but you have to do the pre-AI dance routine whenever you mount the lens and regardless whether the lens is Pre-AI or AI.

True, but that takes all of 1.27 seconds, on average. Given the fact the FT2 will meter with full capabilities with both non-AI and AI lenses--so you don't have to do the far more annoying and inconvenient stop-down metering with the non-AI lenses--it's well worth it. Which is why I went for the FT2.
 

Chan Tran

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True, but that takes all of 1.27 seconds, on average. Given the fact the FT2 will meter with full capabilities with both non-AI and AI lenses--so you don't have to do the far more annoying and inconvenient stop-down metering with the non-AI lenses--it's well worth it. Which is why I went for the FT2.

I must say I never had a non AI body so I really don't know how involved the dance is. However, I like the fact that the aperture scale is built in to the camera. In fact modern Nikon DSLR went back to manual indexing by asking you to enter the maximum aperture so that it can display the aperture with the built in LCD display.
 

Chan Tran

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With FT-2 and Ai lenses it's stop down metering. FT-3 is beautiful solid camera body. I used it as my second Nikon body for years. Only downside is sometimes arraric meter needle, but very soon and easy you can figure it out. I never had desire to replace it with more modern FM or FE or even newer camera.

FT-2 and AI lenses doesn't have to do stop down metering as the AI lenses still have the rabbit ear. Only the series E lenses don't have it.
 

gorbas

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FT-2 and AI lenses doesn't have to do stop down metering as the AI lenses still have the rabbit ear. Only the series E lenses don't have it.

Yes, sorry, you are right, forgot that. I never bothered with Non Ai lenses, a few I have, have all been immediately converted to Ai.
 

MattKing

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I must say I never had a non AI body so I really don't know how involved the dance is.

It isn't that involved, but you do have to remember to do it.
Of course, the last time I had to do it was nearly 50 years ago, and I still sort of remember how, so maybe that isn't so much of a problem.....
 

dynachrome

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I think the FS is the only model I don't have. Most of the ones I have in chrome and black and in Nikkormat and Nikomat versions. My collection includes the EL, ELW and EL2 - the EL-2 is technically a Nikon. It got phased out when the FE came on the scene in 1978. It's hard to believe how long ago 1978 is. My most used Nikkormats have been the FT2s. The factors in its favor are the non-mercury battery, the easier ASA changing and the fact that it works with pre-AI and AI/AIS lenses. Also, the hot shoe is handy. My repairman's favorite Nikkormat is the FT3. It's less mechanically complex. I don't mind occasionally using an FT3 in stop down mode. My 28/2 is a 'K' lens. I recently got a late black Nikkormat FTN with a 24/2.8 'K' Nikkor. It came with the hard leather case and must have spent most of its life there because it looks great. Although I am not partial to FTNs, it is out getting overhauled and I hope to have some fun with it. By now this FTN is about 50 years old. My rarest Nikkormst must be my FTN K. After the FTN, the rest of the Nikkormats all had K screens and the K screen would be the default one for all future Nikon manual focus Nikons.
 

Nitroplait

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Of the two, I prefer the FT2 as it is forward compatible with AI and AI-S lenses whereas the FT3 is not backward compatible (metered) with non-AI.
Same reason I prefer the DP-1 Photomic on my F2’s over the DP-11.
I am strongly against butchering a non-AI lens. Factory conversion kits are OK but it is heartbreaking to see the many ungainly modifications.
 

dynachrome

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Over the years I have purchased many non-AI lenses with factory conversion. Eventually I will get an 85/1.8 'K' Nikkor with factory conversion. There are more of those around than earlier HC examples with factory conversion. I might also eventually send one or more Nikon F2 cameras with DP-1finders to Sover Wong but that's a long term project.
 

BrianShaw

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It isn't that involved, but you do have to remember to do it.
Of course, the last time I had to do it was nearly 50 years ago, and I still sort of remember how, so maybe that isn't so much of a problem.....

I transitioned from a Nikkormat FT2 to F3 in 1981 and still do the "dance" with whatever lens I'm mounting, on whatever brand camera I'm using. Old habits are sometimes dificult to break. :smile:

Someone should document "the dance" for posterity so AI learns what it is. LOL

The query "nikon non-ai dance" likely refers to a performance art piece called "Nondance Dance" where dancers perform to challenge a computer vision AI that is trying to identify "dance". It may also be a misunderstanding for a user looking for photography tips on how to shoot dance using older Nikon non-AI (pre-1977) lenses. The term "non-AI" refers to Nikon's older, pre-1977 lenses, which are physically incompatible with many modern digital cameras.
 

logan2z

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I transitioned from a Nikkormat FT2 to F3 in 1981 and still do the "dance" with whatever lens I'm mounting, on whatever brand camera I'm using. Old habits are sometimes dificult to break. :smile:

Someone should document "the dance" for posterity so AI learns what it is. LOL

ChatGPT seems to have a good handle on it:

Prompt: What is 'the dance' when using Nikon non-AI lenses?

Response:


When people talk about “the dance” with Nikon non-AI lenses, they’re referring to a specific mounting and metering routine photographers have to do when using these older lenses (pre-AI, or “non-AI” lenses from before 1977) on certain Nikon film SLRs — especially the Nikon F, F2, Nikkormat FTn, FT2, and similar bodies.


Here’s what’s going on:




🧩 Background​


Non-AI lenses use a “meter coupling prong” (often called “rabbit ears”) to communicate the lens’s maximum aperture to the camera’s light meter. But before AI (Aperture Indexing) was introduced in 1977, this linkage wasn’t automatic — you had to tell the camera what the maximum aperture was manually.


That’s where the dance comes in.




💃 “The Nikon F Mount Dance”​


When you attach a non-AI lens to a compatible Nikon body, you perform a little ritual:


  1. Mount the lens onto the camera body, engaging the “rabbit ears” with the meter coupling shoe on the camera’s prism.
  2. Twist the lens to f/5.6 (this sets a reference point for the meter linkage).
  3. Then turn the aperture ring all the way to minimum (smallest aperture) and all the way back to maximum (largest aperture)** — or vice versa.
  4. The camera’s metering system now knows the full range of apertures for that lens.

This back-and-forth movement — twisting the lens’s aperture ring through its full range to “teach” the camera — is what’s affectionately called “the Nikon dance” or “the AI coupling dance.”
 
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