Convinced that helicoids do not always have to be separated for cleaning and re-greasing, I got to work.
A Nikkor 50/1.8 Ai turned quite dry when focusing.
Some dust had also accumulated on the inner lenses over the years.
I wanted to remedy all of this.
Glow of dust in the LED light
Fortunately and unexpectedly, these three bayonet screws could be removed without any problems.
The bayonet screws on a Nikkor are often very hard to loosen because they are secured with adhesive.
See on topic:
Three small screws hold the back cover in place, one of which is longer than the others.
A mark for assembly later can't hurt.
Photos for orientation as to what needs to be aligned with what.
Using the spanner wrench, I take out the rear lens assembly.
It can be unscrewed after loosening.
The rear side of the panel is exposed.
Take care, that the aperture locking ball, which is spring driven, does not jump away when the aperture ring
is removed.
A sealed plastic bag comes in handy for this.
These two screws hold the aperture lever in the tube.
After loosening the aperture ring can be removed.
Ahh, there isn't a ball that is used to lock the aperture ring into place.
But rather a rocker that reaches into the recesses in the aperture ring.
A Nikkor 50/1.8 Ai turned quite dry when focusing.
Some dust had also accumulated on the inner lenses over the years.
I wanted to remedy all of this.
Glow of dust in the LED light
Fortunately and unexpectedly, these three bayonet screws could be removed without any problems.
The bayonet screws on a Nikkor are often very hard to loosen because they are secured with adhesive.
See on topic:
Repair: Nikon Bayonet Screws (Video)
Hello, Everybody! Spring is here! It is definitely getting warmer and while that is definitely good news, the bad news is hay fever is also rampant! I suffer from it just like many people living he…
Three small screws hold the back cover in place, one of which is longer than the others.
A mark for assembly later can't hurt.
Photos for orientation as to what needs to be aligned with what.
Using the spanner wrench, I take out the rear lens assembly.
It can be unscrewed after loosening.
The rear side of the panel is exposed.
Take care, that the aperture locking ball, which is spring driven, does not jump away when the aperture ring
is removed.
A sealed plastic bag comes in handy for this.
These two screws hold the aperture lever in the tube.
After loosening the aperture ring can be removed.
Ahh, there isn't a ball that is used to lock the aperture ring into place.
But rather a rocker that reaches into the recesses in the aperture ring.
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