I just ordered Sodium Metaborate, then noticed I have two rather large bottles of Kodalk sitting on my shelf...



I've done the same with supplies before and it's in part due to my ridiculous inability to keep things organized. And this only happens with art supplies...sometimes, I spend more time looking for something than using it...![]()
I have an accidental lifetime supply of potassium bromide now.![]()
I found myself in the same place. A friend dropped off his darkroom chemistry to me when he shut his darkroom down and there about 20lbs of Potassium Bromide among it. Haven't put a dent in the first jar yet.![]()
I just ordered Sodium Metaborate, then noticed I have two rather large bottles of Kodalk sitting on my shelf...![]()
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Andy. What is it even used for? I know you like to mix your own brews, but I have no idea what it is.
Given that I just saw an Epson v800 (a $900 scanner when new, two years ago) listed on eBay for $2000 USD, perhaps you should sell one on eBay as "classic film developing chemicals"-- and buy a Leica with the profits.![]()
Andy. What is it even used for? I know you like to mix your own brews, but I have no idea what it is.
And what kind of image results or differences would you see using this? Or is it used just to even get an image?
That depends on how much sodium sulfite is in the developer. With ample sulfite, removing metaborate might make the neg thinner (i.e., need to develop longer). For example, D-23 (mentioned above) has plenty of sulfite and no other alkali (like metaborate), and it does fine. But with little/no sulfite, the pH would drop too low and you'll probably get no image.
@Andrew O'Neill, @relistan, myself, and others enjoy mixing and experimenting with our own developers. It's easy and cheap. If you're interested in this, I suggest buying The Film Developing Cookbook to learn what chemicals are available, what they do, and plenty of formulas to try.
Mark
I second what @albada said.
It's interesting that D-23 containing Metol and Sodium Sulfite (in slightly more quantities than Thornton's 2-Bath), one is able to fully develop film, whereas in Thornton's an image is faintly rendered in Bath A,
I think I'm safe in guessing that standard developing time for D-23 for any given film will be much longer than the three or four minutes in Bath A of a two-bath developer...
With 4 or 5 min in just Bath A my "test' developed very nicely, a bit thinner than with B part, but totally usable.whereas in Thornton's an image is faintly rendered in Bath A
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