Newbie Question - Slow Film + Developer Preferences

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zenrhino

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Right now I'm using Pan F+ and Ilfosol (I got the film cheap and Ifosol was all my photo place had for liquid developers in under a gallon) but I'm about to run out of the film.

So, what do y'all like in slow film (and why), and which developer do you like best with it?

Thanks!

-ZR
 

Ole

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Pan F, EFKE 25 and EFKE 50. I would have used Ilfosol-S too, if it had been readily available locally - but when it was, I was the only one who used it.

Now I use Pyrocat-HD, Beutler, Neofin, FX-2, Windisch', D-23, or just about anything else that strikes my fancy. Sometimes I can even come up with a good reason for choosing a specific developer!
 

rbarker

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My slow choice is Pan F+, too, gently bathed to perfection in DD-X. I haven't tried the Efke films, although I used to shoot Adox KB14 back in the '60s. Wonderful stuff.

Here's what KB14 looks like pushed a little bit (to ASA 1600), developed in the two-bath something-or-other-fin (don't recall which):

http://www.rbarkerphoto.com/fashion/sweatergirl68-400s.jpg
 

25asa

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Efke PL25 in XTOL

Will try shooting it at iso12 in a Phenidone concoction soon to see if it does better.
 

k_jupiter

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For small formats, PanF+ in highly dilute developers for controling contrast. It looks nice in Rodinal 1+50 or 1+200, and in W2D2+ standard development.

For larger formats 4x5 etc, I like the Efke25 in W2D2+. A friend just developed some in Pyrocat-HD and the negs look nice, he hasn't printed them yet.

tim in san jose
 

modafoto

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Pan F+ and Delta 100. I use Rodinal 1+50 for 99% of my slower films (under 100 ISO). I don't know Ilfosol S enough to say anything about it with these films.
 
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zenrhino

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modafoto said:
Pan F+ and Delta 100. I use Rodinal 1+50 for 99% of my slower films (under 100 ISO). I don't know Ilfosol S enough to say anything about it with these films.
I know I'm walking into the lion's den on this one, but let me ask anyway: What is it about Rodinal you like?
 

Wally H

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I generally use Kodak's TMX (120 format) rated an 200asa processed in Photographer's Formulary TFX-2 (500ml per roll) @ 68 for 8' in a JOBO ATL200, water for a stop bath and Photographer's Formulary TF4 Fixer...
 

FrankB

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Delta 100 in Rodinal 1:25.

Why Rodinal? Tonality and biting acutance. 'Course it doesn't hurt that it's cheap and lasts forever!
 

modafoto

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zenrhino said:
I know I'm walking into the lion's den on this one, but let me ask anyway: What is it about Rodinal you like?

The tones, the grain and the sharpness. It has a crispy grain structure and tones and the negs are glowing. The negs are easily printable and the glow is transferred to the print. The highlights are SO nice.

Morten
 

TPPhotog

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zenrhino said:
I know I'm walking into the lion's den on this one, but let me ask anyway: What is it about Rodinal you like?
ZR It's one of those looks you either love or hate. I can't really add more than Morten has already said, but I love Rodinal for slow films (Pan F & FP4+) and have recently been trying it with HP5+, Delta 400 and even Tmax P3200. I intend to use it one Delta 3200 as well when I can get some locally.
 

fhovie

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I think right now I would have to say MYTOL (XTOL) and Pyrocat are my two developers of choice - I can make others but for large formats the Pyrocat has a lot of sharpness and highlight clamping with great tonality - for 4x5 and 8x10 my preference is TRI-X at asa200 in Pyrocat. For roll film FP4, and TRI-X in MYTOL - very fine grain and good accutance - Sodium Ascorbate is a wonderful developer!
 
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