newbie - 4x5 for landscape?

[Bruce Watson]

I am interested in a camera that is as light as possible for landscape work primarily - want to keep the weight to a minimum. I would be looking for a 'standard' wide angle lens in the first instance...

If light weight is your goal, you might want to consider a Toho. Kerry's review is thorough and right on the mark. I've used one of these for six years now and I'm still impressed with it. I doubt you'll find anything lighter.

For lenses I'd suggest starting out with something no shorter than 110mm (about the same as a 28-35mm lens for 35mm cameras). The problem with short lenses is they render image detail very small on the ground glass making it more difficult to judge focus and movements. Short lenses making learning how to use the view camera a little more difficult.

I'd really suggest that you consider starting with a 150mm lens. These are light weight, cheap(er), and good lenses with which to learn camera movements. You'll end up with one eventually anyway (in my experience just about everybody who moves to LF and swears they'll never have a "normal" lens because they never used one with 35mm cameras none-the-less ends up with a normal lens for LF because LF is a very different ball game).

Since you are interested in light weight, you might be interested in Kerry Thalmann's list of light weight lenses as well. Kerry is a valued LF resource.

 

[seawolf66]

Suggest you look at a Linhof Teck III built in 1955 or there abouts weights about four pounds , the linhof line has been around a long time but I specify this model since I have it : Good luck and enjoy your self no matter what you get:

 

[John Kasaian]

I agree with Straun Gray. Don't stress over your first LF camera---just get something that fits your budget (that isn't a worn out piece of junk of course!) and start making photographs. You'll learn what is useful, what is neccesary, and what isn't. Maybe you'll move onto something different, maybe you'll find your first LF camera all you need. Realistically, no one can know by looking at your prints if they were taken with a $200 B&J or a $700 Tachihara or a $2000 Ebony.

 

[LVaszar]

Books: I started with Steve's "Using the View Camera" and then read Large Format Nature Photography by Jack Dykinga. These will get you going.

Equipment: I use a Tachihara and it is excellent for nature photography. Started with a 135mm lens; the 150s have a tad narrower angle of view but larger coverage. Both can be bought cheaply on eBay. Then added a 90/8, a 240/9 and a 72 (the latter is optional, three lenses is all you need).

 

[markm]

No more polaroid

Since Polaroid has annouced they are discontinuing the manufacture of Polaroid film, you might possibly want to reconsider your plans.

 

[JBrunner]

Since Polaroid has annouced they are discontinuing the manufacture of Polaroid film, you might possibly want to reconsider your plans.

He's got a year or so to work with it. Type 55 isn't an experience I would pass up. You will forever keep those negatives as treasures.

 

[jeroldharter]

My advice:

For a lightweight 4x5 that is versatile enough that you won't soon want a better camera: a Canham 45 DLC or the Toyo 45 CF.

For a first lens, a Rodenstock Sironar-S 135 mm.

The Canham is reasonably light and the bellows allow lenses from 75 mm to 450 mm. The Rodenstock lenses are very sharp and the 135 mm is very small, light, and reasonably priced for the quality.

The problem of buying old used gear is that experienced photographers can make it work despite its limitations. But a beginner is likely to be exasperated by the limitations and perhaps discouraged from continuing. And if you continue, you will soon want to by modern equipment.

Don't forget a good spot meter. I would go cheap with the tripod at first. You should be able to use your medium format tripod if you are buying lightweight gear.

 

[Peter Williams]

I went with a Toyo 45CX (least expensive model) monorail camera because I found one heavily discounted. I use it for landscapes all the time, but usually not further than 200 yards from the car. It is versatile enough to do just about anything and although it is a little awkward when carried, the weight is no problem. The entry level Calumet Cadet is also a pretty good choice for a first LF camera. I really enjoy portraits and I use every inch of the bellows with longer lenses, but if I knew that I would never take those shots, I would likely go for the field camera.

 

[pellicle]

Hi

I'm not sure how you intend to develop your film, but don't be scared off home developing. I've just got some things I put together in the bathroom and it works fine. I've got an ironing board which I put on 2 plastic stools as my 'bench' and cover that with a $1 bit of PVC table clot from the local craft shop. I've got 3 5x7 trays for single sheet development and put my D-76 into 'Grolsch' bottles which I've emptied of beer (and disposed of safely using a biochemical conversion process in my stomach .. there has to be some sacrifce in a hobby after all

I picked the groslch as they have nice swing tops which reseal, and I can then divide my D-76 across several bottles, meaning that each remains 'tightly capped' unexposed to air until needed.

I use screw top wine bottles for the fixer (again more personal sacrifice called for here) which seems to be less oxygen bothered than D-76 is.

Lastly I use the bathroom as its easy to make light tight (no external windows) at night and give it a quick mop to remove the floating dust.

ADOX sheets are currently about the best value in the EU for film, and I buy my bits off fotoimpex.de in Germany. (don't really bother with their www site, just ring them) Prices seem to be less of a shafting than the UK seems to be (with nearly the same number associated with items as prices but its EURO not GBP)

feel free to email me for 'moral support' as I understand how hard it can be starting up doing this. (or indeed re starting doing this when your 'real' darkroom is on another continent ... again)

lastly, all the camera suggestions are good.

Have fun