New Vivitar 285HV suitable for Canon Rebel T2 and Bessa R3A?

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All of the Differences Between Vivitar 283's & 285's

WOW ! It's hard to know where to begin. There's so much mistaken information, here. So let's try this;

1. There are 2 different 283's as there are 2 different 285's.

2. All of these models can use 6 volt low voltage Quantum 1's, or 1+. Any modules, that fit into the battery compartment are for the low voltage Quantum battery.

3. The L.V. 285's, CANNOT use a Turbo. They weren't designed to use the H.V. pack, so they can't use a Turbo.

4. Aside A., when they came out with 285 H.V., they redesigned the 283's to lower the flash synch voltage. Only older 283's have a high synch voltage. All 285's have a low flash synch voltage.

5. I don't believe that you need to install AA batteries, to use a Turbo. I still own 2, 1 of which still works fine. I remember, Vivitar telling me, that only the flashes, that used an LCD, display, require AA's.

6. Stay away from the Vivitar H.V. 1 pack. The 510 volt battery is hard to find. The turbo's were invented as a substitute for the Vivitar H.V. 1 pack. The Turbo puts out about 300 volts. www.qtm.com

7. Aside B., All 283's & 285 H.V.'s use the same AC adapter. Because when they redid both flashes, they made them both similar inside. All 283's & 285 H.V.'s se the same Turbo power cord. Only the 285 L.V., uses a different AC adapter, which Vivitar promptly discontinued, when they discontinued the 285 L.V..
But here's a secret, the 285 L.V., AC adapter was also used for the Vivitar Polaroid Instant Printer.
So the joke was on them.

8. I was always worried I would fry the camera circuitry, because of the single ball connector in the hot foot. If both, the camera & flash are switched on, dragging the ball across multiple contacts on the hot shoe, could short the camera. So to avoid that, I changed the foot to the one made by Lindahl. It uses a HouseHold synch cord, instead of the little pin & the metal foot, required me to use a flash bracket, the best thing I could have ever done.

9. You can tell the difference, between 285 L.V.'s & 285 H.V.'s by the front label. The L.V.'s used Black lettering, on a Silver background, the H.V.'s used Silver lettering on a Black background. While it does say H.V. on the front, it can be easy to miss & if your eBay, hunting, this may be a more reliable way to spot, what you want.

10.. You must power up all Vivitar flashes every once in a while or the capacitor goes dead. It's hard to fix now, due to a lack of parts from Vivitar.

11. I'm told that the Chinese one's are junk, ( no pun intended ). Here's a web site that explains all about the new models. But even he has some of the facts wrong, about the older models. I owned, both L.V. & H.V. 285's. I still have the H.V.'s as back up. www.AlJacobs.com
 

Steve Smith

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I was always worried I would fry the camera circuitry, because of the single ball connector in the hot foot. If both, the camera & flash are switched on, dragging the ball across multiple contacts on the hot shoe, could short the camera.

I think this is the main reason for some camera manufacturers putting out warnings about using high sync. voltage flashes.

If an internal circuit uses (probably) an opto-triac to fire the flash then it is very unlikely that one only rated to 6 volts is used. In fact, I expect it would be impossible to find one rated that low.

I now personally think that the warning is to prevent the scenario you presented. i.e. switched on, fully charged flash inserted into hot shoe and centre pin connects momentarily to one of the other pins causing damage.

Due to the design with these pins being offset to the sides, I can't really see it happening but I think this is the reason for most of the advised caution.


Steve.
 
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