@pentaxuser I have no way of knowing, since I have zero experience printing in color!Just recently I've added color film to my bag and, to be honest, I am still having difficulties evaluating negatives on the light table!
Lachlan what should I be looking for in the above examples that demonstrates colour crossover.
One more question Bormental, if I may: Do you do your own processing or are these negs commercially processed?
Lachlan, what do I need to look at to see the yellow cast and what has caused this, given it looks safe to assume that the Ektar negs were not grossly over-exposed and the development process was carried out as per C41 standard specsThe yellow cast that results from attempts to correct the colour shifts produced by the crossover, but because it's crossover, not an overall cast, this attempted correction throws the colour balance of other areas off too.
If Ektar is correctly exposed, it's near dead neutral but saturated.
The question is what caused the crossover, given the OP's camera exposure in terms of shutter speed, aperture and light conditions and whatever caused it in the top scene seems to be absent in the middle scene.Lachlan has correctly expressed the dilemma. People try to correct for crossover by adjusting overall color balance afterwards, which just throws something else off. Crossover in Ektar generally goes cyan, so the steering wheel gets yanked the opposite direction (warm) afterwards, and potentially pulls the whole car off the road. Makes no difference whether we're talking about RA4 printing in a darkroom or digital reproduction. Either way, it's far easier to obtain "neutrality" using corrective filtration at the time of the shot if necessary, along with careful metering.
Not if you have problems with crossover.Just curious (since I've not used Ektar): Does correcting color temp in post do anything to correct the problem?
So if we go back to the scene in question, namely the green parked sportscar, where in this print do I need to look for the signs of colour crossover that are apparent there? Equally importantly what might be the cause and what might the OP have done in the middle shot( the car on a drive with a house) to have achieved a pic with no crossover unless there is also crossover here as well. In which case what do I need to look for here that says "crossover "Not if you have problems with crossover.
Crossover corrections would require different colour temperature corrections at different parts of the image.
I think we may have sourced one of the problems.So if we go back to the scene in question, namely the green parked sportscar,
I don't see any clear indications of crossover in the uploaded version of this image - exposure seems to be good, and the scan appears good as well - at least as far as we can see here.Equally importantly what might be the cause and what might the OP have done in the middle shot( the car on a drive with a house) to have achieved a pic with no crossover
Donald Qualls mentioned a green look as well and unfortunately when I mention green I needed to add the word faint. I never saw this as other than just a hint of green. I agree that the grass under the trees in the middle shot looks strange but this is largely the result of what Bormental wants in his picture and this was corrected in the lab scans.@pentaxuser I have no way of knowing, since I have zero experience printing in color!Just recently I've added color film to my bag and, to be honest, I am still having difficulties evaluating negatives on the light table!
@Donald Qualls Agreed. By the way, the car's paint had a faint green tint to it in real life. I wish I had taken a digital photo as well.
"What are you guys really carrying for daylight landscapes to deal with the possible crossover issue?"
If you really need/ want to go beyond 7 stops of range (and remember that the film is supposed to give a look more like a transparency), you might want an ND grad or two
A couple of different warming filters - the sort we used to use when we were using and projecting slide film.So if you don't mind my asking, "What are you guys really carrying for daylight landscapes to deal with the possible crossover issue?"
By the way, the lab scans that Bormental posted in this thread appear to have better colour and less crossover than his own scans. His scans have better contrast and detail. That tells me that he needs to adjust the exposure of his scans, plus how they are post-processed, in order to retain the good contrast and detail, but more accurately record the different colour components in the negative.
The world could benefit from better tooling for color inversion.
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