New User advice

[Cyrusfirmer]

Hi all,

I have just bought an RZ PRO with 127 lens and w/l finder and am having issues getting good images. I am using Fuji 400 film and so far have exposed two rolls with different yet disapointing results. I am using a Sekonic light meter and the first set of photos were taken outside on a rather overcast day and the results were rather muted in both contrast and colour. The second set were taken outside on a sunny day and were over exposed but also lacking in any real colour definition. How do you set exposure as bright days suggest an apperture of f16 / f22 with a fast shutter but obviousley with the RZ 400 is the fastest. Do you always set for 1/400 and f16 or f22? Any advice or information on how you set up for a shot would be greatly welcomed as I dont really know how to proceed. I dont really want to start carrying my Nikon D200 around as well for comparitive time / exposure settings and I know that digital meters differently to the RZ. Thanks.

 

[k.hendrik]

I did !! horsing around with my D200 to understand 'light' on my RZ67 ;( Use it for a while and after that; buy a Mamiya RZ67 AEII prism finder and you're ok, not for weight but spot-on B+W metering! Colour is too difficult for me.

 

[Pete m]

I'm new here too, but here's what I've found. I too use a RZ "Pro" and one of two Sekonic meters I own. I have found that for whatever reason, I get my best exposures, hence results, using the incident metering mode rather than reflected metering. I also shoot 4x5 and wouldn't say the same thing about that format. I've tried various methods but now when using the RZ and Mamiya Secor lenses, I use incident metering.

 

[StephenT]

I also use incident almost 100% of the time. MUCH more reliable IF the quality of light falling on the meter is about the same as what is falling on your subject.

If your 127mm shutter is not accurate at 1/400, then you won't get the proper exposure. Try bracketing - one stop over and one stop under. Also try a different shutter speed. In addition to 1/400 at f16 in bright sun, try 1/125 at f32; if the exposures are not the same, then you will know how to compensate.

 

[Francois Cleroux]

So what you want to do is to "Calibrate" your new camera with the film you are using. Yes, you need to under expose -1EV, -1/2EV, get the recommended or guessed at exposure 0ev, and +1/2EV and +1EV. Or use 3rd Stops. But the point is to try under different lighting and find how your camera acts based on the film you use. You cant be guessing exposures so learn how to take exposure readings, perhaps learn the new ZoneVI system but learn how to take readings. Once you have shot a roll or 2 get them developed somewhere reliable. Don't get prints done just the film developed. Look at the results and get help if you need. By looking at the negatives find the negative that gives you good tones with good details in the highlights and shadows. Determine what exposure that is and then set you camera appropriately by shooting your film with the appropriate compensated ISO. So if you base 0EV negative was a little light and needs to be darker a 3rd a stop, then shoot at ISO 320. This 320 will always then be 1/3 stop overexposed giving you a good printable negative provided your meter readings are accurate and consistent!

The key here also is use a good lab!! Hope this helps.

Note also the B&W Film works great with reflected light meters. Learn to use a spot meter and life will get easier.