New to Pyrocat HD

[tony lockerbie]

This is probably old hat but I have just mixed up some Pyrocat and am about to use it for the first time. I'm using FP4+, PanF and Tri-X mostly in 35mm, 120 and 5x4 and need some rough starting times for these films.
I checked the massive dev chart and there seems to be all sorts of strange times, including one for 45mins! I intend to use it 1:1:100 and I process in a paterson tank with 10sec agitation every minute. I don't need exact times, just a rough guide as a starting point. BTW, all my enlargers are of the diffused type.
Thanks, Tony

 

[edtbjon]

Try visiting unblinkingeye.org , where there's a lot of information on Pyro developers in general and Pyrocat in particular. (The info is in the articles section.)

//Björn

 

[Leon]

Tony, the trouble wiht the pyrocat developers is that we mix them ourselves and so there is little to say your pyrocat is the same is mine .... which of pyrocats did you make?

I use Pyrocat HD at the same dilution as you, I use 4 inversions every three minutes for a total of 15 minutes and get good negs from all films I've tried between iso 100 and 400.

I've got good results with Pan F using the 4 inversions each minute at 7 minutes, fp4+ at 9 minutes but I havent tried tri x.

 

[tony lockerbie]

Thanks Guys, I don't have the formula here with me but I will try your suggestions Leon. All these things need some experimenting but it's good to have a starting point, let you know how it goes.
Cheers, Tony

 

[ann]

go to the formulary tech section. they have the direction including sandy king's starting points for various film types.

 

[sanking]

go to the formulary tech section. they have the direction including sandy king's starting points for various film types.

I have no idea where some of the development times for Pyrocat come from, but the only times that come from me are the ones in the tech section at Photographer's Formulary and in my own writings at www.unblinkingeye.com.

Pyrocat-HD and -MC, though very different developers, were formulated so that they could be used interchangeably, i.e. the development times and type of processing for one work for the other. The same is true of Pyrocat-PC, which is used by quite a number of folks, though it is not distributed in a commerical kit. The times given are based on rotary processing at 72ºF and are for printing on silver graded papers. Printing on VC papers with staining developers require negatives of greater contrast (assuming match of Grade 2 to Filter 2) and to get that you need to increase develoment times over those recommended by about 35-40%.

Times for alternative printing depend on the specific process and must be determined individually. The times in my article at www.unblinkingeye.com are a good guide, though some of the films have changed since that article was published a few years ago.

Sandy King

 

[tony lockerbie]

Thanks everyone for the help. Sandy, that's a great site, could open another can of worms.....maybe when I retire!
Tony

 

[Wyno]

Hi Tony,
I have to ask, where in Australia did you buy Pyrocat HD. I've just started using an 8x10 and want to use Pyrocat as my normal developer, especially now I can't get Rodinal anymore.
Thanks
Mike

 

[jford]

Mike,

You can get all the chemicals for PyrocatHD at Vanbar. Try the North Melbourne store as the guy who mixes them is based there, rather than in Carlton. I think he only mixes on Thursdays so it would pay to ring and order then pick up after a Thursday. I doubt you can buy pre-mixed Pyrocat anywhere in Aus. Try mixing them yourself. I did and chem was my worst subject in high school. It's not that hard to get good results.

John.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Hi Tony,

I use both Tri-X and FP4+ a lot, and here is how I use the developer:

FP4+: I rate it at EI 100. Then any metering I do I err to the side of overexposure, read shadow detail. I mix my developer to 1+1+150, at 70*F, or a little over 21*C. I give the film a bath in water prior to development, for however long it takes to mix the working solution.
-13.00m - I pour in the developer and agitate for the whole first minute, rap tank on counter several times to dislodge air bubbles.
- 9.00m - agitate three full inversions, and rap tank on counter to dislodge air.
- 6.00m - same as 9.00m
- 3.00m - same as 6.00m
0.00m - pour developer out.
Water stop
TF-4 fixer

Tri-X: I rate at EI 200. Same metering, exposure, developing as FP4 and all, but I use a 1+1+100 dilution instead.

This is under normal lighting conditions. If extremely bright light, I'll dilute even more and keep the same times. If very subdued light, I'll dilute less, but keep the same times.

It has worked like a charm for me, and to some extent it lets me expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights, the old adage the zone system has preached, a technique I still think many employ. The Pyrocat-MC version I use very successfully holds back the highlights from becoming over-developed in this manner, while my adding one or more stops just helps me stay away from the toe of the film density curve.

I hope that helps to give you starting direction. It is a lot of trial and error with this developer, but once you get the hang of it, it is remarkably simple to use.

- Thomas

This is probably old hat but I have just mixed up some Pyrocat and am about to use it for the first time. I'm using FP4+, PanF and Tri-X mostly in 35mm, 120 and 5x4 and need some rough starting times for these films.
I checked the massive dev chart and there seems to be all sorts of strange times, including one for 45mins! I intend to use it 1:1:100 and I process in a paterson tank with 10sec agitation every minute. I don't need exact times, just a rough guide as a starting point. BTW, all my enlargers are of the diffused type.
Thanks, Tony

 

[tony lockerbie]

Hi Mike. I got all the bulk chemicals from Vanbar in Melbourne as John has mentioned. The only problem was the potassium carbonate of which I could only get 300grams. The guy at Vanbar said that they are having trouble sourcing it, so I don't know if it's going to be available in the future. You can, of course, use sodium carbonate as a substitute but I don't know how it affects the formula. Someone in Apug-land will no doubt know the answer to that.
Tony

 

[tony lockerbie]

Oh, and thanks Thomas for your comprehensive reply..... I have lots of experimenting to do. Lucky I love it!
Tony