New-to-me Canon T70 - precautions, need-to-know?

[jay moussy]

Thrift Canon T70 plus 35-70 zoom, inexpensive, clean battery compartment -same place I got the QL last week!
Was marked "as is", but new batteries fired the film advance and allowed mirror to come up. Came with the Canon 277T flash unit as well.

- what precautions should new user take with such all-plastic(?) machine?
- I will study the manual, of course, but are there more obscure things to know?

 

[Duceman]

I've got a couple of these myself. I have read from others that the battery door can easily break if mishandled. Once that happens, your camera is either bricked or you need to cannibalize another for a replacement. Also, test to see how well the buttons and/or LCD screen works. On one of my cameras, the up/down selector buttons don't seem to function unless I press them real hard; am thinking that the contacts are getting worn or corroded, but as long as they still work, I'm not going to play with them.

The T70 is a nice little camera... if you don't mind the noise of the motor. Grin. The first one I got was from my grandmother; she got it around 1984 or 1985. She kept all the literature and it was fun to read how Canon was promoting this as the first camera to have an on-board computer with something like 8 bits of memory! (I don't have the literature in front of me, so don't quote me on that). Nonetheless, I've found the metering to be quite accurate and it takes decent photos.

Have fun with yours!

 

[AgX]

To me it is a very good user-camera. And seemingly robust. The only thing I consider missing is a DOF feature.

No precautions or issues I can think of.

 

[AgX]

Well, something came to my mind: at one or two T70 bodies I encountered the bayonet ring being slightly loose, something I not yet encountered at a differnt FD-body. You might have a look, or rather feel, at it.

 

[jay moussy]

Took the T70 with the Canon 35-70 out yesterday on a test ride, sunny, with interesting architecture.
Fun and easy to use, even with the dog pulling on leash - one in-motion frame should be interesting!

 

[Helge]

Super robust camera. Never encountered a broken one and I have several.
Only thing really missing is double exposure.
Probably the best F mount camera together with the FTb. All the higher specced ones are unreliable, overused, heavy and not really much better.
One of the best focusing screens I’ve ever seen. As good as Acute Matte on Minolta.

Two things to watch out for:
Sliding the metering selector too far to “spot” meter mode. The mode is brilliant but you need to be careful and deliberate when using it.

Wrap your head around the difference between tele and wide mode. The idea is very good and a super alternative to aperture priority. You’ll rarely “run out” of shutter speed or get into dangerously slow speeds.

 

[AgX]

Only thing really missing is double exposure.

Interesting point, a feature rarely mentioned here, and likely even more rarely used.

But you are right, it lacks that disengage button of classic function.

 

[braxus]

I seem to remember a hack to get it to do double exposure. It was like pressing the rewind button in, then pressing shutter button for another shot. I think that's how it went anyway. I also have this camera, but the metal plate inside the battery compartment came loose, and it won't close the door. I have it taped shut at the moment. It means the camera is useless until its fixed. I also have an AE-1 and T-90 if I want to shoot FD lenses, so Im not stuck. I much prefer auto focus these days though.

 

[AgX]

The moment you press the rewind button, the camera rewinds, the moment you press the release it releases, One might try the rewind button during releasing. If it does not brake the camera..., it still would be impractical.

 

[Helge]

AFAIK the only way to do double exposures is by running the film through twice, which takes a lot planning and exactitude.
Would love to hear of a hack though as it’s really the only thing that bothers me a bit.
I use double exposure somewhat often for preflashing when pushing.
I’m currently dialing in latensification as an alternative.

 

[Duceman]

AFAIK the only way to do double exposures is by running the film through twice, which takes a lot planning and exactitude.
Would love to hear of a hack though as it’s really the only thing that bothers me a bit.
I use double exposure somewhat often for preflashing when pushing.
I’m currently dialing in latensification as an alternative.

From this Reddit thread, here's a double exposure from a Canon T-70. How'd he do it? Put the same roll through the camera twice! (by accident). Yeah, I suppose that's a hack, but from a practicality standpoint, probably easier just getting a camera that permits it.

 

[Helge]

From this Reddit thread, here's a double exposure from a Canon T-70. How'd he do it? Put the same roll through the camera twice! (by accident). Yeah, I suppose that's a hack, but from a practicality standpoint, probably easier just getting a camera that permits it.

Saw that yeah. Not interested in these kind of “kooky” “accidents”. Their like can be replicated better later in the process anyway.
When I do double exposures I do it to do stuff that wouldn’t be possible other than in camera. Stuff that uses self matting and the reciprocity failure of film. Flashing to lower contrast/raise real speed.
This needs more precision than is possible by just running the film through again.

 

[Duceman]

Not interested in these kind of “kooky” “accidents”.

Yeah, thought I had made that clear with "...probably easier just getting a camera that permits [double exposure]," but apparently not.

 

[Helge]

Yeah, thought I had made that clear with "...probably easier just getting a camera that permits [double exposure]," but apparently not.

And I thought I made myself clear in the first post.
So we got that going…

T80 could also be a nice addition.
I foolishly missed out on a cheap (seemingly) mint one with all AF lenses a couple of years back.
Basically a T70 with AF contacts and a slightly different LCD.

 

[Tony-S]

Probably the best F mount camera together with the FTb.

Can you elaborate on this comment?

 

[Helge]

Can you elaborate on this comment?

Well, I don’t really know how much more to say.
It’s just a simple, not too simple, very reliable, light and wonderfully well designed camera with some strangeish and some very useful unusual features.
Runs on two AA batteries that lasts “forever”.
Is far lighter and more reliable than the T90 and less expensive too.
There was a thread a few years back that went into more detail.

 

[jay moussy]

I did not get to try the "tele" or "wide" modes yet, and would have to think of a plan to compare.

Note : I edited my brain fart about the battery, as I recently cleaned my AE-1 Program, which uses a single 6V

 

[Tony-S]

Well, I don’t really know how much more to say.
It’s just a simple, not too simple, very reliable, light and wonderfully well designed camera with some strangeish and some very useful unusual features.
Runs on two AA batteries that lasts “forever”.
Is far lighter and more reliable than the T90 and less expensive too.
There was a thread a few years back that went into more detail.

Meh. I'll keep my F-1n and F-1N AE. Really superior cameras.

 

[tokam]

Meh. I'll keep my F-1n and F-1N AE. Really superior cameras.

+1 for the F-1N. The EF is also a sweetie.

As for this bloody term, 'HACK'. When I hear/read of it I get this vision of Johny Weissmuller playing 'Jungle Jim', swanning around in the jungles of the Hollywood back lots swinging an enormous machete around. I'm sure we used to have better terms such as work-around etc. Hack sounds crude, clumsy and 'ghetto' to coin another recent phrase. (Get off my lawn!!!)

 

[Helge]

Meh. I'll keep my F-1n and F-1N AE. Really superior cameras.

They are great cameras too. But of course in a whole other league WRT complexity, weight, rarity and price.

The EF is better in some regards but worse in others. The screen, the batteries, the auto modes, metering and weight is strong points the T70 has over the EF.

If I had to choose one FD Canon besides the T70 it would probably be the A1.

+1 for the F-1N. The EF is also a sweetie.

As for this bloody term, 'HACK'. When I hear/read of it I get this vision of Johny Weissmuller playing 'Jungle Jim', swanning around in the jungles of the Hollywood back lots swinging an enormous machete around. I'm sure we used to have better terms such as work-around etc. Hack sounds crude, clumsy and 'ghetto' to coin another recent phrase. (Get off my lawn!!!)

It is, but if it works it works.

 

[flavio81]

Thrift Canon T70 plus 35-70 zoom, inexpensive, clean battery compartment -same place I got the QL last week!
Was marked "as is", but new batteries fired the film advance and allowed mirror to come up. Came with the Canon 277T flash unit as well.

- what precautions should new user take with such all-plastic(?) machine?
- I will study the manual, of course, but are there more obscure things to know?

It's not "all-plastic", it has a metal frame.

Take care with the battery compartment cap. It is fragile.

Also, the manual tells you which certain FL lenses you should NOT fit into a T70, take a look.

 

[Javier González]

I have one and like it a lot. Mine had the mount loose, an easy fix. Also, now and then the film advance is sluggish. I have read it is due to dirt accumulating in the plastic gears. Flushing them with contact cleaner mend the issue for a while, but it tends to recurre. I think it has one of the best focusing screens ever.

 

[gone]

.......here's a double exposure from a Canon T-70. How'd he do it? Put the same roll through the camera twice!

If you kept notes so you knew what was on each frame, you could flip the film like that guy did, and look for shots that would go w/ the image that you know is on there. It would take a while to finish the roll (24 exp would be plenty) but at the end you'd have a whole roll of cool, double exposures.

I have enough trouble as it is trying to make one mage on one frame, so this will have to be for someone else.

 

[Niglyn]

Thrift Canon T70 plus 35-70 zoom, inexpensive, clean battery compartment -same place I got the QL last week!
Was marked "as is", but new batteries fired the film advance and allowed mirror to come up. Came with the Canon 277T flash unit as well.

- what precautions should new user take with such all-plastic(?) machine?
- I will study the manual, of course, but are there more obscure things to know?

Hi,

I have had one of these since new, so about 35 years. It won various awards. It is actually sitting next to me now, I have been testing the shutter speed accuracy (all spot on btw)
Mine came with the special edition Olympic lens cap.

It was designed to be simple to use, hence the lack of features, just program, Tv, manual, wide & tele mode. I found it had a tendency to give washed out colour photos, especially when I humped it all round the USA whilst on a fly-drive holiday. This I think is due to the metering system & not being able to add any exposure compensation for the bright sunny US summer.
Using slide film in the UK gave stunning colours.

It has an internal battery, under the prism. This keeps the frame numbers & ISO when the AA batteries are changed.

It took me years and years to find out how to get to the battery, which was 'designed' not to be user-serviceable.
Remove the lens, loosen the screws of the back latch, but do not remove.
Undo the screws on the front of the camera and remove the front.
This will now reveal the screws holding the top on.
Remove these screws and the top.
The battery will be seen, soldered to the board.

I checked the voltage, it was still good after 30+ years, so I left it alone.

To check the internal battery, either put in an old film cassette, or carefully wedge down the film-loaded button with some tissue.
Close the back, set ISO to something other than 100 and fire a few frames.
Remove AA batteries for a while & re-insert. If ISO and frame counter still set, internal battery is all ok.

The manual has a warning about the top LCD only lasting a few years. LCDs were quite new in those days. Mine is still 100% fine & most I have seen on ebay still look ok.

The databack is a different story. Most I have seen, including mine have bled.

As others have said, the body is plastic, so be careful, especially with the back release and battery cover. Spares are 100% unavailable without breaking another camera.

I am very careful with the battery door, which needs some force to close against the battery spring tension. I carefully close it, using even pressure, so as not to over stress the hinges and also operate the release catch manually, rather than just pushing the door closed. Similarly when opening, I slightly push the door to release pressure on the catch before releasing it and carefully open the door, not allowing spring pressure to fling it open.

Leaking batteries have killed many a camera. Rechargeable batteries do not seem to leak, unlike the disgusting Duracells.
I personally never leave batteries in cameras (or anything) for an extended period.

Don't know if leaving a film in the camera without batteries will discharge the internal battery.
A camera without film or batteries does not seem to deplete the internal battery, if mine is anything to go by.

Enjoy your T70 )

 

[Helge]

Hi,

I have had one of these since new, so about 35 years. It won various awards. It is actually sitting next to me now, I have been testing the shutter speed accuracy (all spot on btw)
Mine came with the special edition Olympic lens cap.

It was designed to be simple to use, hence the lack of features, just program, Tv, manual, wide & tele mode. I found it had a tendency to give washed out colour photos, especially when I humped it all round the USA whilst on a fly-drive holiday. This I think is due to the metering system & not being able to add any exposure compensation for the bright sunny US summer.
Using slide film in the UK gave stunning colours.

It has an internal battery, under the prism. This keeps the frame numbers & ISO when the AA batteries are changed.

It took me years and years to find out how to get to the battery, which was 'designed' not to be user-serviceable.
Remove the lens, loosen the screws of the back latch, but do not remove.
Undo the screws on the front of the camera and remove the front.
This will now reveal the screws holding the top on.
Remove these screws and the top.
The battery will be seen, soldered to the board.

I checked the voltage, it was still good after 30+ years, so I left it alone.

To check the internal battery, either put in an old film cassette, or carefully wedge down the film-loaded button with some tissue.
Close the back, set ISO to something other than 100 and fire a few frames.
Remove AA batteries for a while & re-insert. If ISO and frame counter still set, internal battery is all ok.

The manual has a warning about the top LCD only lasting a few years. LCDs were quite new in those days. Mine is still 100% fine & most I have seen on ebay still look ok.

The databack is a different story. Most I have seen, including mine have bled.

As others have said, the body is plastic, so be careful, especially with the back release and battery cover. Spares are 100% unavailable without breaking another camera.

I am very careful with the battery door, which needs some force to close against the battery spring tension. I carefully close it, using even pressure, so as not to over stress the hinges and also operate the release catch manually, rather than just pushing the door closed. Similarly when opening, I slightly push the door to release pressure on the catch before releasing it and carefully open the door, not allowing spring pressure to fling it open.

Leaking batteries have killed many a camera. Rechargeable batteries do not seem to leak, unlike the disgusting Duracells.
I personally never leave batteries in cameras (or anything) for an extended period.

Don't know if leaving a film in the camera without batteries will discharge the internal battery.
A camera without film or batteries does not seem to deplete the internal battery, if mine is anything to go by.

Enjoy your T70 )

Your exposure compensation is in the partial metering mode.
Just point the center spot at what you want protected in the image and grab a reading.
The camera will still take some amount from the rest of the frame and the spot is rather large, so there is little chance that you will blow out or vastly underexpose. But of course be intelligent about it. Don’t point the center meter at something pathological like black paint or clouds.

Otherwise it’s no big deal to just take the iso setting a stop up or down.