All what is needed as "copy-stand" is readily available as Nikon ES-2. Everything besides camera, lens and light-source is in the box. Fix it to a macro-lens of the right focal length for the sensor-size as stated in the manual and off you go.I made a copy stand...
All what is needed as "copy-stand" is readily available as Nikon ES-2. Everything besides camera, lens and light-source is in the box. Fix it to a macro-lens of the right focal length for the sensor-size as stated in the manual and off you go.
Nikon ES-2 Film Digitizing Adapter Set #602 | eBay
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Dear Rich,
I've been doing this for many years and in many ways. I can assure you: You are right on track here. With respect to the lens in use there ist no reason to get too picky. The same rules apply as in the darkroom: As long as you can see clearly defined grain all over the field and the borders of the negative ar nice and straight you are set and there is little to improve if at all. No need to make any more fuss about it in this regard and the 28mm CRC-lens on APSc represents the field of view of a 42 mm in full-format terms if it checks the above criteria (which I can't judge from the examples above), just go ahead and use it.
But after scanning many thousands of slides and negatives this way I would always prefer a method that is easy and quick to work with if I had the choice. In this respect I would prefer something like the Nikon ES-2, which I upgraded to from the ES-1 which I used with a Nikon D800E and a Micro-Nikkor Ais 2,8/55 for several years. Positioning the film is a breeze, it is held still relative to the camera so shake is no issue and you can most often skip the refocussing after every shot. Stopping down to f8 will ease out most differences e.g. with slides provided the make and model of the frames is the same.
With respect to the post-processing it is easy with slides as your camera will do most of it even auto WB works pretty decent and you can use about any light-source you like, provided its spectrum is continuous and not too far off 3200-5000 K. Flash can be tricky to get the exposure right but you can easily adjust the output and redo the shot, using the histogram as your guide.
But I would like to stress again, that the whole matter is less complicated and difficult than it might seem when starting to dig into the details. There is more than one way to do it and no one correct way because it is EASY to do. Take a decent lens, get it fixed at the right distance to the film and get rid of any stray light and you are mostly done. The rest is up to your convinience and preference.
Best
Stefan
That sounds nice, at least in theory. But in practice, what good does it really do?
FYI, this:
My question was/is: does the color filtration offer any improvement in the present use case? @L Gebhardt actually answered this from a theoretical perspective, but I wonder how much real-world benefit there is. I suspect it may not be all that much.
What a color head mainly will do is allow you to adjust the color
Yes, I understand. So the question was/is: how does that help in a scanning setup? I can see something at a theoretical level to the argument of curves overlapping in order to expose to the right using a digital camera (i.e. optimizing s/n ratio), but I very much doubt the result is meaningfully better than just shooting an orange C41 negative and slide out the color cast in digital post.
I mean, the 1989 article you linked to doesn't give much footing when it comes to DSLR scanning with a color head, or am I missing something?
I very much doubt the result is meaningfully better than just shooting an orange C41 negative and slide out the color cast in digital post.
Using a 1 cm extension tube seems to do the trick. Will this degrade the performance of the lens in anyway?Are you still using the tubes? Shorter focal length (<105mm) full-frame lenses are only capable of 1:2 without additional extension.
You can experiment to find a combination of extension, lens focus, and working distance that gives 1:1 magnification with good optical performance.
Will this degrade the performance of the lens in anyway?
The Nikkor 60mm f/2.8 D (and non-D) both go to 1:1 without tubes.Shorter focal length (<105mm) full-frame lenses are only capable of 1:2 without additional extension
The Nikon PK-13 Auto Extension Tube allows the 55/2.8 Micro Nikkor to focus as close as 1:1 and maintains the auto aperture function. A plain extension tube will not support the auto aperture. The second set of distance and magnification numbers on the lens barrel are specifically intended for use with the PK-13.Hi, OP here.
I have obtained a Nikkor 55mm Micro F2.8 lens. I am disapointed to see that, at its closest focus, a 35mm image only fills about 75% of the frame. Am I missing something?
Rich
The metal box on top of the film window is an attachment for something. It doesn't belong there. It can be put aside. Mounting a digital camera takes some effort as Matt said. This one has the same challenge but it should be easy DIY to achieve a good mounting of a camera. The great thing about this slide duplicator is it is equipped with dichroic filters and an electronic flash light source. I am wondering how well (or bad) it will do if I mount my Canon 5D-iii on it.Found one on the internet. It's sold long time ago though:
Beseler dual mode slide duplicator model 4100 for Sale in Davis, CA - OfferUp
Used (normal wear), Selling a dual mode slide duplicator $125 obo. Make an offer!;offerup.com
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