New to 35mm... in need of advice...

[Lila100]

Hello everyone.
I am new to 35mm photography. I just purchased Pentax Program Plus camera w/50mm lens.
I am interested in 35mm black and white landscape and street photography. What will be good film (and speed)?
Thank you.
Sorry for my English.

 

[Alan9940]

You don't mention what size prints, if printing at all, you plan to make, but, in general, I'd go for a 100 speed film for landscape photography and HP5+, maybe pushed to 1600, for street photography.

Have fun!

 

[Lila100]

You don't mention what size prints, if printing at all, you plan to make, but, in general, I'd go for a 100 speed film for landscape photography and HP5+, maybe pushed to 1600, for street photography.

Have fun!

Thank you.
Are you suggesting HP5+ 400 pushed to1600? I would like prints 8x10.

 

[narsuitus]

When I use my Pentax 35mm camera for landscapes, I use a 28mm lens and Ilford Delta 100 or Fomapan 100 or Arista Edu 100 35mm film.

When I use my Pentax 35mm camera for street, I use a 50mm f/1.4 lens and Ilford HP5 or Ilford Delta 3200 Pro 35mm film.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Don't forget your tripod for the landscape pictures. Also, use mirror lockup of your camera has it.

 

[woodlandSerenade]

Hello Lila,
It is hard to go wrong with any of today's black and white films, as there are many good choices.
Assuming you will be using a tripod for landscapes, I would recommend a medium speed or slow film. You could get a more modern look with T-grain films like Kodak T-Max 100 or Ilford Delta 100. If you are aiming for a more classic look, you could use something like Ilford Pan F+ or FP4+. That being said, you can get a range of looks from any film just using filters alone. I would recommend a yellow/orange/red filter for landscapes, and possibly green if you ever decide to shoot foliage close-up.
I know little about street photography, but Ilford HP5+ and Kodak Tri-X are both perennial classics for it (especially if a they are pushed a stop or two).
Starting out, you may want to use less expensive films such as those by Foma or Harman. That way, you will be able to learn the ropes without spending a lot of money on finding your style.
In summary: Slower films for landscape, faster films for street photography. There is no wrong choice in these categories.
P.S. Your English is perfectly understandable

Best of luck!

 

[Paul Howell]

I recommend that you spend time reading up, there are lots of excellent vintage books you can find on Amazon or Thriftbooks, some specific to landscapes. Get the best tripod you can afford, although it seems that a light 35mm does not require the build of a tripod for a heaver camera, a really good tripod and cable release is needed when shooting at slow speeds, a cheap tripod is not much better than hand holding. In terms of a film, I recommend Tmax 400, it has fine grain for a fast film, good resolution, with a higher dynamic range, develops well in a large number of developers. If you are going scan the negatives then you might want to check in the hybrid threads for help with find tuning your scans.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I recommend Kodak Tri-X 400 which is what I mostly use. Also films good are Ilford FP4 [ISO 125] and HP5 [ISO 400]. All shot at box speed. Do not push film unless you have to because developing longer merely increase contrast and does not raise film speed.

 

[narsuitus]

Here is a complete list of what I pack for landscape photography with a 35mm camera:

Cameras:
Pentax Spotmatic (1 or 2 bodies)

Lenses:
28mm f/3.5 Takumar
50mm f/1.4 Takumar
135mm f/3.5 Takumar

B&W Film:
Ilford Delta 100
Fomapan 100
Arista Edu 100

Filters:
Polarizing
Graduated neutral density
Yellow, Orange, or Red filter (to darken blue sky on B&W film)

Support:
Tripod
L-bracket
Cable release

Misc.:
Handheld light meter (the built-in light meters in by camera bodies do not work)
Flashlight
12-feet of string or nylon parachute cord (to tie small branches out the way)
Heavy duty plastic trash bag (to protect equipment from unexpected rain)
Lens cleaning tissue & fluid
Towel for drying wet equipment
Toothbrush to remove sand from equipment
Compass, global positioning device, map, matches, food, water, whistle, cell phone, sunscreen, insect repellent, and other survivalist stuff when far from civilization

 

[Wallendo]

Are you planning on developing your film yourself, or sending it to a lab? If using a lab, the cost of the film will only be a small part of the total cost and there is no great need to buy cheaper film.

Any film between 100 and 400 ISO sold by Kodak, Harman/Ilford/Kentmere, FOMA, Arista EDU, or UltraFine would be a reasonable choice. Avoid specialty films such as Ilford SFX or any slower than 100 or faster than 400 film - these tend to be less forgiving. Shoot at box speed (the number printed on the box) until you have a good reason to do otherwise.

I personally don't do street photography, but would recommend a fast film such as Kodak TX400 for this (HP5+ is a reasonable alternative, but I personally prefer the Tri-X look). From what I can see, your camera has a maximum shutter speed of 1/1000s. For landscapes in bright sun, this would limit you to f11 or f16. That might be OK for you, but I prefer somewhat wider apertures and would recommend Ilford FP4+ for that (Kodak TMax 100, Ilford Delta 100, Kentmere 100, Fomapan/Arista EDU 100, and UltraFine Xtreme 100 are good alternatives)

 

[eli griggs]

I prefer 400 at 200 ISO, in the old HC-110, which I do no have anymore of, at Dilution H, which is a classic combination among many landscape photographers of the past.

D-76 is good as well, and it makes the most out of Tri-x 400 grain. Also at 200 ISO.

HP Plus is good, but resolves less sharply, according to the 'experts' who take the time to do any sort of test one might dream up.

With a Tripod, any B&W Panchromatic film will give good results, or as far as the quality of the film will allow, and Infrared photographs can simply be Excellent. Ortho works too, but will no give you a good sky, IMO only.

Use what you've got, including old stored films, and just enjoy the process and your ability to be out of doors, while doing it.

IMO.

 

[ignatiu5]

While there are several excellent films that would serve your needs, I’m going to suggest Kodak Tri-X shot at 400 for the following reasons:

1. So many people have used it for so many years that you can probably easily find references for almost any combination of speed and developer when you start to experiment.

2. Since your location indicates USA, I think that Tri-X would be among the most readily, consistently available 35mm B&W film for you. Something from China or the Czech Republic might be cheaper, but could you always get your hands on a roll or twenty in a couple of days, as you would with Tri-X locally or via mail order?

3. It can do (almost) anything required of a 35mm monochrome film. You can push it, pull it, use it in harsh lighting, fog, upside down, whatever. It works, and you can make it work too.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

If you are new to film, then pick only one film, and one developer...that's assuming that you will be processing the film yourself. Shoot a test roll using different EI's (ISO settings) to find which EI works best for your camera and developer. Enjoy your picture taking and don't change anything for at least a year, until you fully understand your film/developer combination. Then try a different film, or developer... . I would start off with a conventional film like Ilford's HP5 (ISO 400). Which would be great for street photography, and fine for landscapes as you are not planning on printing larger than 8x10. I use it all the time for landscapes but with large format film. Cheers and have fun!

 

[Lila100]

Thanks to all of you for your responses. Do you use Shutter Release cable to take your landscape photos?
Where I can purchase Shutter Release cable for Pentax Program Plus?

 

[eli griggs]

I do no know about that particular camera, but self-times also work and if there are no moving factors, wind against your tripod, flock of birds in a slow exposure, use both a cable and self timer, or instead of a cable, which should be long one, by-the-way, use a wireless remote/server set-up.

IMO.

 

[Paul Howell]

Thanks to all of you for your responses. Do you use Shutter Release cable to take your landscape photos?
Where I can purchase Shutter Release cable for Pentax Program Plus?

I use a shutter relase cable when shooting landscapes, my old all mechanical cameras use the old style cable release, newer models have a electronic release. If none avialble use the self time to fire the shutter. The better the tripod and using a cable release means less chance of camera shake, here is the manual, you need a standard cable release, you can get one from Amazon or if you live in a larger city a local camera store might have one.

https://www.cameramanuals.org/pentax_pdf/pentax_me_super.pdf

here is a cable release

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI:514&gclid=Cj0KCQjw28T8

 

[Sirius Glass]

What I take if I am going to shoot 35mm: 20mm to 35mm AF zoom, 28mm to 300mm AF zoom, Tri-X 400, Portra 400

 

[Alan9940]

Thank you.
Are you suggesting HP5+ 400 pushed to1600? I would like prints 8x10.

I would shoot HP5+ at 400, if you can for your street photography. However, if you're in/out of challenging light and/or need to keep your shutter speed up, then pushing HP5+ is a viable option; especially for smaller prints. If you surf the 'net a bit, I'm sure you could find many examples of pushed HP5+ to see if it's something that appeals to you.

 

[Alan Gales]

I'd start with an ISO of 400 and your 50mm lens. Everyone is different. See what you like.

Personally, I prefer a 50mm but many prefer a 35mm for street photography. Some prefer a 28 and a few prefer a longer lens then 50mm. You can usually get closer and you can always crop. Sometimes you can't back up though.

 

[Leavesofglass]

Hello Lila,
It is hard to go wrong with any of today's black and white films, as there are many good choices.
Assuming you will be using a tripod for landscapes, I would recommend a medium speed or slow film. You could get a more modern look with T-grain films like Kodak T-Max 100 or Ilford Delta 100. If you are aiming for a more classic look, you could use something like Ilford Pan F+ or FP4+. That being said, you can get a range of looks from any film just using filters alone. I would recommend a yellow/orange/red filter for landscapes, and possibly green if you ever decide to shoot foliage close-up.
I know little about street photography, but Ilford HP5+ and Kodak Tri-X are both perennial classics for it (especially if a they are pushed a stop or two).
Starting out, you may want to use less expensive films such as those by Foma or Harman. That way, you will be able to learn the ropes without spending a lot of money on finding your style.
In summary: Slower films for landscape, faster films for street photography. There is no wrong choice in these categories.
P.S. Your English is perfectly understandable

Best of luck!

Backing up what was said here. Definitely invest in a tripod/shutter release for landscapes, it is often not apparent that the fine detail is lost until you print larger.

 

[Huss]

As others have said, keep it simple to start. It's way more fun! Just pick a 400 ISO film (perfect all-round speed), and use the lens/camera that you have.

 

[jeffreyg]

plus 1 with Huss. Since you are just starting out I would keep it simple and become familiar with your camera including exposure and what your equipment can produce. Landscape and street photography can be rather broad subjects so once you decide on what you like to photograph within those subjects you can add to your equipment. The 50mm lens is considered a "normal" lens and gives an angle of view of approximately 40 degrees. A decent tripod and cable release as well as perhaps a yellow and orange filter are worthwhile. I agree to stick with 400ISO film for both subjects. Once you know what it will do you might add 100ISO. I use Ilford Delta 400 but medium format and Ilforfd HP5 large format.
The real camera is your vision. The equipment is a tool that lets you share it.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

http://www.sculptureandphotography.com/




















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[Andrew O'Neill]

Thanks to all of you for your responses. Do you use Shutter Release cable to take your landscape photos?
Where I can purchase Shutter Release cable for Pentax Program Plus?

Any shutter cable release will screw into the shutter release button. Any camera shop will have them or can at least order it in for you... Probably faster to order from amazon or ebay. I always use a cable release when the camera is on a tripod.

 

[AgX]

Where I can purchase Shutter Release cable for Pentax Program Plus?

That camera has the standard (conical) thread for cable realeases. Here in Europe all cable releases got that thread. In the USA likely most you come across.
Such cable is still available new. I myself buy all my stuff used at fleamarkets and camera stores. There such releases are common.
Choose the longest one you come across, as then you can form it into a bend, which transfers hardly any body motion. Unless you intend to use it mainly in wet circumstances, chose a cloth covered one as those are the most flexible ones.