New TMAX P3200 in Pyrocat-HD - any info??

[Steve Goldstein]

I picked up a couple of rolls of the new P3200 for a project with a friend's kid who wants to experience using film and making prints in the darkroom. Since it's cold in this part of the country now she'll probably want to take her pictures indoors , hence the fast film. Does anyone have experience developing this film in Pyrocat-HD? What EI do you rate it at, and what's your developing regimen (dilution/time/temperature)? Most likely I'd have her expose it at EI 800, but would consider 1600 if the lights are really dim. She'll be using one of my 35s and I don't own any lenses faster than f/2.8 for her to use.

I know I could mix up some D-76 and follow Kodak's recommendations, but I use Pyrocat-HD for everything else and it's always around. Please don't recommend other developers, my only interest for this little project is Pyrocat-HD or D-76.

The only thread I could find here was from 2008, and it didn't answer my question.

Thanks.

 

[koraks]

If exposed at EI 800 Pyrocat would most likely work OK; the required long development time will create some overall stain that you can easily print through. Higher than 800 will work in principle, but give more overall stain and it may be difficult to attain the required gamma due to hardening of the emulsion. As you probably know, pyrocat is not recommended and was never intended as a push developer, while TMZ is specifically designed to be used with a push developer. In short, it'll work, but it may not be the ideal solution.

 

[pentaxuser]

One of the experienced Pyrocat users here is Ian Grant. He may well contribute once he see this thread. My memory may not be the best on this but I think that he mentions using Pyrocat with films at more than 800 or at least 800 in the case of box speed films of 400. I am not a user of Pyrocat but if P3200 has a "true" speed of about 1000 in D76/ID11 then there would seem to be no reason to believe that Pyrocat cannot manage at least this speed and 1600, should that be needed, is less than a 1 stop push.

pentaxuser

 

[KenS]

Piyrocat HD (in BTZS tubes) is the only film developer (mixed from 'scratch')now used in my home darkroom. Unfortunately I cannot comment on how 'well'.... or at which speed it will 'do' the best' for P3200 . I like the "tight grain' on the 'slower' speed film from both Ilford and Kodak sheet films exposed at 1/3 stop under manufacturer's ISO speed 'rating'.

Ken

 

[Peter Schrager]

Use xtol full strength or 1:1 and dont waste your time. Pyrocat always gives true speed with fp4 or tmy 400 but you're missing the whole point of using a fast film. Cant change built in characteristics of a film or developer ..glad you like pyro but not for this.

 

[chris77]

iso 1600
23 minutes (1st min continuous, then 2-3 inv every other minute) gave me wonderful negatives.
1:1:100
enjoy!

 

[Steve Goldstein]

iso 1600
23 minutes (1st min continuous, then 2-3 inv every other minute) gave me wonderful negatives.
1:1:100
enjoy!

Temperature?

 

[Ian Grant]

One of the experienced Pyrocat users here is Ian Grant. He may well contribute once he see this thread. My memory may not be the best on this but I think that he mentions using Pyrocat with films at more than 800 or at least 800 in the case of box speed films of 400. I am not a user of Pyrocat but if P3200 has a "true" speed of about 1000 in D76/ID11 then there would seem to be no reason to believe that Pyrocat cannot manage at least this speed and 1600, should that be needed, is less than a 1 stop push.

pentaxuser

It's many years since I tried Tmax 3200 before Sandy King formulated Pyrocat HD. You're right though I have used Pyrocat to push process 5x4 HP5 and was very impressed with the results at around 1600 IE, I'd definitely use Pyrocat with Tmax or Delta 3200. Like others it's now the only film developer I use as it's so versatile and gives me comparative fine grain to Xtol (relenished).

Use xtol full strength or 1:1 and dont waste your time. Pyrocat always gives true speed with fp4 or tmy 400 but you're missing the whole point of using a fast film. Cant change built in characteristics of a film or developer ..glad you like pyro but not for this.

It maybe that it's not Steve who's missing the point here My experience is Pyrocat HD is excellent for push processing, one benefit of the extended developing times is increased stain which helps mitigate the increase in graininess, I have a brick of 120 Delta 3200 and will be using Pyrocat HD to get the best from the film.

Ian

 

[Peter Schrager]

It's many years since I tried Tmax 3200 before Sandy King formulated Pyrocat HD. You're right though I have used Pyrocat to push process 5x4 HP5 and was very impressed with the results at around 1600 IE, I'd definitely use Pyrocat with Tmax or Delta 3200. Like others it's now the only film developer I use as it's so versatile and gives me comparative fine grain to Xtol (relenished).
Ian many paths to the final destination
Not missing any point at all



It maybe that it's not Steve who's missing the point here My experience is Pyrocat HD is excellent for push processing, one benefit of the extended developing times is increased stain which helps mitigate the increase in graininess, I have a brick of 120 Delta 3200 and will be using Pyrocat HD to get the best from the film.

Ian

 

[bedrof]

Does anybody have ideas on the development time? Just finished a roll of 120 Delta 3200 (at EI 1600), want to try it in Pyrocat HDC, yeah

 

[Steve Goldstein]

In the end I developed the roll of P3200 in Mocon as I remembered I had some stock in the freezer. Mark's testing showed that many Kodak films needed just under twice the XTOL 1+1 time when developed in Mocon, so I used 22 minutes at 68F/20C and got quite good negatives. The film was exposed at EI800. We printed some of the negatives yesterday and I was surprised and pleased at how relatively grainless they were at 8x10.

By the way, I'd mixed the Mocon stock 4 years ago and kept it in the freezer at -6F/-21C since mixing. It was still yellow (i.e. no significant color change), had no precipitate, and worked just fine. Of course I tested it on a personal roll before using it for my friend's kid's first roll of film.