New Rollei Colorchem C-41 Kit instructions confusing me

[nbagno]

Just arrived from Freestyle is the blix version C-41 kit from Rollei. A few of the instructions are unclear:

• "The bleach-fixer can be used twice. For additional processes the bleach-fix is changed 50% of the bath with fresh solution". So if I have a 1L kit and my tank is 500ml and holds two reels (1 roll of 120 film per reel) that's 4 reels processed then dump 250ml out put in a fresh 250ml then does that mean I can do 4 more reels? Then dumb 250ml again then add the final 250ml and get 4 more again for a total of 12 reels?
• "Used and fresh solutions should not be mixed with each other in order to avoid contamination". In the past if I used 500ml I put in back in the 1L bottle and just poured from that bottle another 500ml when I started another process. Was that wrong? So If I don't mix, I would have two sets of chemical bottles, one set that was previously used and a fresh set? So in total based on the above the 1L kit would do 24 reels? Doesn't add up right. Where am I going sideways here?

 

[nbagno]

Nothing?

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 4

 

[Nuff]

I think this kit is fairly new, so you might want to contact freestyle or rollei to clarify things.
The Rollei Digibase C-41 instructions are straightforward.

 

[Rudeofus]

The bleach-fixer can be used twice. For additional processes the bleach-fix is changed 50% of the bath with fresh solution". So if I have a 1L kit and my tank is 500ml and holds two reels (1 roll of 120 film per reel) that's 4 reels processed then dump 250ml out put in a fresh 250ml then does that mean I can do 4 more reels? Then dumb 250ml again then add the final 250ml and get 4 more again for a total of 12 reels?

To me the instruction text sounds like a replenishment schedule:

1. prepare as much bleach fix as you need to properly fill the tank
2. process 2 rolls
3. replace half the bleach fix
4. go to step 2 until no more rolls are to be processed

"Used and fresh solutions should not be mixed with each other in order to avoid contamination".

I would interpret this as do not replenish the other working solutions, especially the color developer. Use whatever you set up for as many rolls as it has capacity for, then discard and make a new batch. In your case this would mean split your fresh working solutions into 250ml or 500ml batches and use them one after the other.

 

[nbagno]

Answer from Freesytle

For 16 rolls through a TWO REEL TANK at 38C/100F (wash and stabilizer
times remain same and are not noted below):

ROLLS 1+2: 500ML (1st half virgin working solution)

DEV: 3:15

BLIX: 6:00


ROLLS 3+4: 500ML (2nd half virgin working solution)

DEV: 3:15

BLIX: 6:00


ROLLS 5+6: 500ML (1st half ONCE USED working solution)

DEV: 3:30

BLIX: 8:00


ROLLS 7+8: 500ML (2nd half ONCE USED working solution)

DEV: 3:30

BLIX: 8:00


ROLLS 9+10: 500ML (1st half TWICE USED working solution)

DEV: 3:45

BLIX: 12:00


ROLLS 11+12: 500ML (2nd half TWICE USED working solution)

DEV: 3:45

BLIX: 12:00


ROLLS 13+14: 500ML (1st half THRICE USED working solution)

DEV: 4:00

BLIX: 16:00



ROLLS 15+16: 500ML (2nd half THRICE USED working solution)

DEV: 4:00

BLIX: 16:00


NOTES:

- If primarily processing 400 ISA/ASA and higher films, no more than 12
rolls per liter of working solutions is recommended.

- Stablizer should be used in a separate container than developing tank;
but, if using same tank, wash tank and reels sufficiently between uses.

 

[lupideeloop]

Well... Must we replenish 50 % the Bleach Fix mix each two developings or not?

 

[Rudeofus]

That's what the instructions suggest ...

 

[mts]

Please keep in mind that the blix solution, no matter what the dilution, must go to completion. The time and temperature for developer is however critical for its proper performance. Blix is entirely separate and must convert silver to the halide and then remove (clear) it leaving only the dye components that were formed during the developing process.

Blix is not generally thought of as preferable to separate bleach and fixer, but it does work most of the time. If you use a stop bath following the developer (2% acetic acid with some bisulite) then the blix can be done in room light allowing you to easily see that it has worked to completion. Bleach and fix can be re-done if required. The image consist of silver and dyes, and is formed in the developer step and development ceases in the stop bath. Bleach converts silver in the exposed parts of the image back to halide and the fix removes all the halide leaving only the dye image. The concentration of blix and its temperature and timing is important only to take the process to its completion without being long enough to degrade the dyes that remain in the image

Hope this explanation helps. Experimenting with a few pieces of test film will get you going on the right track.