New MF with fisheye and high flash sync.

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Q.G.

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The Hypersync does little to help.

The first mode is an attempt to overcome the shortcomings of wireless triggering.

The second depends on the flash duration being considerably longer than the time it takes a focal plane shutter to cross the film gate.

The succes of that depends entirely on finding a flash unit with an long enough 'steady level' burn time. (Like the F280 Olympus sold to provide flash synch at all speeds with the focal plane shutter in the OM4 Ti. Olympus also has a very good fisheye lens, so ... :wink: ). And then you will need a great number (the Olympus flash has a metric guide number of 28, which is reduced considerably when used in FP mode, depending on the shutterspeed used also) of those flash units to have enough light to be of any use.
No remote triggering device can do anything to help achieving this. So there may have been a lot if interest in this thingy, but i'm sure it will not work. "Hypersync" is a hype, at best.


The solution however is staring you in the face.
Forget about flash all together. Use normal, continuous light. Flood light. And lots of it.
That - in sufficient quantities - will overpower the sun, and allow as short a shutterspeed as you like without synch speed issues.
 

Pupfish

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For action photography in daylight conditions without ghosting, a fast leaf sync shutter is used primarily to knock down the ambient contribution (while still allowing a wide enough f-stop that a short duration electronic flash pop becomes the main light with sufficient illumination).
 

Q.G.

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That is well understood.
If even the highest synch speed would not be fast enough to stop motion and prevent ghosting, what do you do?
To have faster, motion stopping speeds, you either need more powerful flash units with a very short flash duration, or a focal plane shutter.
But those do not synch with flash.
So don't use flash to overpower daylight. Use continuous light as your main light.
 
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p0ussin

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HI ... back again !! I' haven't been here for a while now... I see the subject's quite interesting lol. Just wanted to say I finally got the Bronica SQ fisheye because I found a very cheap one ... ( about 900usd)
@ Lee J, your picture was pretty good to me, just not as sharp as it could be, but i talked to loads of skate photographers who are using vivitar HV285 or sunpak and judging to their picture it seems to be quite possible to get nice pics.

511489367_65518044d0.jpg


803840425_ec80217a07.jpg


2278895494_b60d2e3dd4.jpg


2382176538_5b6736d5e3.jpg


I'm dying to be able to get that kind of pictures
 
OP
OP

p0ussin

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btw, don't you think that your focal was false in your picture, because it looks like you did it behind the skater and not on him ... it could explain why it's a bit blur.. cause it doesn't look like motion blur.
 

Lee J

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@ Lee J, your picture was pretty good to me, just not as sharp as it could be, but i talked to loads of skate photographers who are using vivitar HV285 or sunpak and judging to their picture it seems to be quite possible to get nice pics.

Sorry, I've only just noticed your reply.

Couple of observations:

1. The examples you posted have all had unsharp mask applied to them, either through the galleries they are hosted on (flickr) or by the photographer in post production. I very rarely apply USM, many many people *do* when it is not necessary. This is a fault of digital post processing workflows, which I won't go into here other than to say they have unfortunately had an affect on film photographers who buy into the "you've got to apply USM" mentality, which is just not true.

2. In three of the examples you posted the subject is smaller in the frame - this will have an affect on sharpness as a subject that is further away will not need as quick a duration as one that is close. In the other example (the fs smith) the subject is coming towards the camera, and not straight across like in my example, which again will have an affect for fairly obvious reasons.

That FS smith photo is great, the others are pretty poor - loose compositions and bad lighting. Don't fall into the trap that you must be using flashes to shoot skate photos, many of the best skate photos have been taken without them.

btw, don't you think that your focal was false in your picture, because it looks like you did it behind the skater and not on him ... it could explain why it's a bit blur.. cause it doesn't look like motion blur.

No, it's pretty obvious flash blur.
 
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p0ussin

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Don't fall into the trap that you must be using flashes to shoot skate photos, many of the best skate photos have been taken without them.

Sorry it's been a while ... do you have any example ?
 
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p0ussin

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Hey I finally got the bronica 35mm fisheye as well with bronica SQ body. Shoot this cam is really different than digit .. and i'm lovin' it !
 
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